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11-12-2023, 05:09 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 15,854
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Rode hard and put away wet.
I’m curious. I hunted in the rain/sleet last night which soaked my rifle. The barrel was taped as I always do regardless of the weather and is stainless steel. The rest of the metal is blued chromoly. Stock is synthetic.
When I got in I disassembled the complete rifle, used my wife’s hair dryer to dry what I couldn’t wipe down to make sure it was dry. Then I used Hornady One Shot cleaner to spray the trigger mechanism and all springs and pins while still in the receiver. Then I sprayed the hinge and release catch on the bottom metal. Did the same to the disassembled bolt, including the shroud/safety mechanism. The rest got a light film of frog lube that was subsequently wiped off.
The rifle was then reassembled and torqued to a pre specified amount. I will hunt with it tomorrow.
How does everyone else combat the weather on rifles?
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11-12-2023, 05:27 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: GP AB
Posts: 16,249
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Pretty much the same, if not same products. Take it down, wipe it dry, thin coat of Lucas gun oil, wipe it off. I like to run a small fan on it overnight especially on the stock, rather the blowdryer, but either or. I also make a point of making sure scope is dried, lenses cleaned.
I've had the joy of cleaning and reconditioning a rifle that a neighbor put away wet, in gun case, and left until following summer. Muzzle wasn't taped so it was a mess from tip to stern, bolt needed a rubber mallet to open. I spent 6 hours cleaning rust off.
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11-12-2023, 06:26 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: St. Albert, Alberta
Posts: 166
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Pretty well the same thing. If/when I am still in the field, I take the action out of the stock and put the action, bolt and bottom metal, all apart ion the front dash where the windshield defroster fan is and put it as hot and high it will go to dry/heat everything quickly. Has always worked and have not had rust issues.
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11-12-2023, 07:03 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: onoway, Ab
Posts: 6,995
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If the rifle just damp I just wipe everything off and wipe it with oil and put over the vent in the bathroom. If the gun has been soaked the stock comes off and the bolt disassembled. Prior to wiping with oil.
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11-12-2023, 08:20 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ft. McMurray
Posts: 38,585
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After mine gets to room temperature I wipe it down and push a dry patch through it.
A light spray of G96 , wipe it off then a rag with Johnson's paste wax on everything.
Cat
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Anytime I figure I've got this long range thing figured out, I just strap into the sling and irons and remind myself that I don't! 
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11-12-2023, 09:06 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,169
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Cerakote and stainless here. Pull bolt, wipe it down, wipe down any exposed surfaces. Put it kinda near the stove to dry out. Done. Rifle season means sleeping in a truck or tent so there’s no gun room/tools to be doing any more, and I paid for it to be weather resistant for that reason.
FYI lighter fluid is (according to Jewell) the thing to use on the trigger group. Flows through everything, flashes off but leaves just enough film to protect and lube without gunking up. Used it this year and so far so good.
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11-12-2023, 11:24 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Camrose
Posts: 45,161
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I use lighter fluid to flush the trigger mechanism and bolt internals and G-96 for the other metal surfaces.
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Only accurate guns are interesting.
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11-13-2023, 05:32 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 15,854
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Starter fluid is better than lighter fluid (it has corrosion inhibitors) and Hornady One Shot beats them both IMO.
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11-13-2023, 06:20 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Camrose
Posts: 45,161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pathfinder76
Starter fluid is better than lighter fluid (it has corrosion inhibitors) and Hornady One Shot beats them both IMO.
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When I contacted Jewel and Triggertech, about what should be used on triggers, both told me that they use lighter fluid, so I use lighter fluid. I also use it to do the final rinse on the gas pistons, on my semi auto shotguns.
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Only accurate guns are interesting.
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11-13-2023, 07:53 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: At the end of the Thirsty Beaver Trail, Pinsky lake, Alberta.
Posts: 24,623
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Complete disassemble would require range time to verify poi....so I just do a wipe down until the end of the season....then they get cleaned really well and put away...poi verified prior to the start of next season.
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11-13-2023, 08:48 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Alberta
Posts: 616
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Learned something new here, lighter fluid.
I don't hunt with a blued rifle so I don't tear it down until the season is over. After that it's just regular cleaning with G96.
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11-13-2023, 02:32 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,931
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Johnsons paste wax on a compleyely disassembled rifle before season. If its a wood stock all wood is sealed prior to start of season then just wipe the bore after use and bring inside. We heat with a wood stove so the gun stays a ways away from the stove. I never do much past that and have never had any kind of rust issues.
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11-13-2023, 02:47 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 15,854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 58thecat
Complete disassemble would require range time to verify poi....so I just do a wipe down until the end of the season....then they get cleaned really well and put away...poi verified prior to the start of next season.
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Not all rifles. Glass and pillar bedded laid up fibreglass/carbon fibre/graphite stocks that are torqued properly should return to zero. We proved that this morning actually.
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11-13-2023, 04:05 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oz
Posts: 2,124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkhunter11
When I contacted Jewel and Triggertech, about what should be used on triggers, both told me that they use lighter fluid, so I use lighter fluid. I also use it to do the final rinse on the gas pistons, on my semi auto shotguns.
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That’s because most lighter fluid is naphtha. White gas or naphtha isn’t a bad choice because it degreases fairly well and it’s longer chain hydrocarbons evaporate cleanly. It would be easier to recommend white gas IMO and then you’ll know you’re using naphtha instead of some off the shelf lighter fluid with unknown chemical composition.
If it were mine, I would us ts321 for a lube that would flash off and leave a dry, protective lubricant behind.
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11-13-2023, 05:55 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 139
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Buy stainless
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11-13-2023, 05:56 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: At the end of the Thirsty Beaver Trail, Pinsky lake, Alberta.
Posts: 24,623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pathfinder76
Not all rifles. Glass and pillar bedded laid up fibreglass/carbon fibre/graphite stocks that are torqued properly should return to zero. We proved that this morning actually.
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Should but glad you proved it too 
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Be careful when you follow the masses, sometimes the "M" is silent...
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11-13-2023, 06:24 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,574
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[QUOTE=58thecat;4675865]Complete disassemble would require range time to verify poi....
I completely disassembled a Ruger 77 once, put it back together and took a drive around the section. Smoked four coyotes. One at 400 yards took a second shot so I guess it didn’t exactly return to zero.
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11-13-2023, 07:29 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 3,802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtShooter
Learned something new here, lighter fluid.
I don't hunt with a blued rifle so I don't tear it down until the season is over. After that it's just regular cleaning with G96.
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G96, lighter fluid is highly volatile and flammable, not my idea of a good time. May as well use camp gas then, same stuff.
Grizz
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11-13-2023, 07:43 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: North of Cochrane
Posts: 6,681
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Boy you guys are hard core!
My 870 was in the bottom of a canoe that we almost sunk. When we got back to shore I turned it upside down to let the water drain out and the next day went back to shooting ducks with my home made shells and $50.00 shotgun!
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11-13-2023, 10:35 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,616
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I just wipe them down with a rag or paper towel, a little G69 and hang them above the wood stove in the tent, cabin or house.
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Thank you front line workers and volunteers
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11-14-2023, 06:54 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Camrose
Posts: 45,161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grizzly Adams1
G96, lighter fluid is highly volatile and flammable, not my idea of a good time. May as well use camp gas then, same stuff.
Grizz
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G 96 is great for coating metal surfaces to prevent corrosion but it is not a good idea for trigger mechanisms, as the residue will form a crud that can effect the safe performance of a trigger.
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Only accurate guns are interesting.
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11-14-2023, 06:57 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: onoway, Ab
Posts: 6,995
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I can honestly say I’ve never lubricated a trigger. Occasionally I will blow them out with compressed air and that’s it.
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11-14-2023, 09:49 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Alberta
Posts: 616
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CRC contact cleaner is good as well.
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Your boos mean nothing, I've seen what makes you cheer.
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11-14-2023, 10:09 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Camrose
Posts: 45,161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtShooter
CRC contact cleaner is good as well.
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Good for cleaning, but any cleaner that strips all oils and leaves no residue, does absolutely nothing to prevent corrosion. Ideally, you want to clean a trigger mechanism, and leave a very slight residue that delays corrosion, but doesn't gather dust.
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Only accurate guns are interesting.
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11-14-2023, 02:12 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oz
Posts: 2,124
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As I mentioned upthread, TS321 is what I use for a protective lubricant. It’s probably like nothing you’ve ever used. My primary use for it is on bearings used in saltwater and it’s exemplary for that purpose.
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11-14-2023, 04:25 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: At the end of the Thirsty Beaver Trail, Pinsky lake, Alberta.
Posts: 24,623
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Just be warned that any additive has the potential to attract crud, dirt etc and can be detrimental so that being said a little dab will do ya.
Toss in fluctuating temps well it could just not be your day when it’s go time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Be careful when you follow the masses, sometimes the "M" is silent...
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