Need archery help- compound bow draw length

[gloszz]

Just wanted to ask if a 5lb difference is worth upgrading? I'm currently at about 55lb draw weight and my arrow spine is at that point where if I change my draw weight to 60lb, the arrow won't work anymore. My draw length is at 28.5 inches and not sure if it really is worth trying to go up the 5lb just to change my arrows and resight my bow...

Any help is appreciated !

TIA

[normanrd]

100% your call. Arrows are expensive, and 5# won't make that much difference on a 3d course for trajectory. It could have a fairly substantial impact on arrow performance when hunting though, depending on the type of broadhead and shot circumstances.

If you are running low on arrows I would the the plunge. If you don't reLly need new arrows, I would keep shooting the ones you have.

Jmo, Norm

[CNP]

Your draw length has nothing to do with arrow spine. What is your arrow length from throat of nock to end of insert? A 28" 400 spine arrow with 100/ 125 gr tips @ 60# are still compatible. Crank it up and try them.

[gloszz]

Originally Posted by CNP

Your draw length has nothing to do with arrow spine. What is your arrow length from throat of nock to end of insert? A 28" 400 spine arrow with 100/ 125 gr tips @ 60# are still compatible. Crank it up and try them.

From what I understood since I have 30" arrows due to Cabelas messing up and not cutting them right, they're 30" and not 28". I plan on going back with receipt in hand and telling them to fix it. The bow shop was saying if I have 30" arrows and go up to a 60lb draw with the spine that I currently have which I believe is 400, then I may have issues; according to the chart.

[normanrd]

Originally Posted by gloszz

From what I understood since I have 30" arrows due to Cabelas messing up and not cutting them right, they're 30" and not 28". I plan on going back with receipt in hand and telling them to fix it. The bow shop was saying if I have 30" arrows and go up to a 60lb draw with the spine that I currently have which I believe is 400, then I may have issues; according to the chart.

Then you should get them to cut 2" off of the 30" ones they screwed up on, on their dime and crank up your bow the 5# you asked about in the original post. It still has nothing to do with your draw length. It is all about arrow length and draw weight. Not draw length and draw weight.you will almost for sure be good according to the spine chart. If you use a lighted nock it will stiffen the spine even a little more.

Norm

[gloszz]

Originally Posted by normanrd

Then you should get them to cut 2" off of the 30" ones they screwed up on, on their dime and crank up your bow the 5# you asked about in the original post. It still has nothing to do with your draw length. It is all about arrow length and draw weight. Not draw length and draw weight.you will almost for sure be good according to the spine chart. If you use a lighted nock it will stiffen the spine even a little more.

Norm

Even though it may not seem like much, I feel better shooting at 55lb and not get as tired, while 60lb after pulling 3 to 4 times gets a bit harder. I think at 55 I am ok, and will be able to put down a whitetail or elk with enough practice and confidence in my shots.

[6.5 shooter]

Originally Posted by gloszz

From what I understood since I have 30" arrows due to Cabelas messing up and not cutting them right, they're 30" and not 28". I plan on going back with receipt in hand and telling them to fix it. The bow shop was saying if I have 30" arrows and go up to a 60lb draw with the spine that I currently have which I believe is 400, then I may have issues; according to the chart.

IF they cut your arrows for use with broad heads? then they did not "screw" up your arrows. Arrows are usually cut 1" longer for broad heads so people don't cut their fingers off. If you have a an overdraw etc. then that is different.

I run 28.5" arrows and my draw length is 27.5" with a capture rest, with field points and broad heads.

Changing tip weight, feathers for vanes, longer shorter vanes, adding forward weight etc. ALL affect the spine of your arrows. Buying a couple good archery books will save you TONS of money and help answer a lot of your questions.

P.S. 5# will do very little for your arrow speed or penetration, what it will do? is cause you to perhaps start making errors in your forum IF you over bow yourself. A GOOD, clean, sharp, broad head in front of an arrow that flies straight and true will fly faster and out penetrate most increases in draw weight.

[Lefty-Canuck]

What arrows and what bow? What arrow length and what weight of broadhead. I have found sometimes depending on the setup you can cheat a bit against what the charts say...or you just try it and see if you can get things to tune ok. Some arrow manufacturers err on the side of stiffer despite what the label on the arrow states. I found once I had some arrows that were supposed to be 350 actually spined out closer to 320-315-ish.

LC

[gloszz]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

What arrows and what bow? What arrow length and what weight of broadhead. I have found sometimes depending on the setup you can cheat a bit against what the charts say...or you just try it and see if you can get things to tune ok. Some arrow manufacturers err on the side of stiffer despite what the label on the arrow states. I found once I had some arrows that were supposed to be 350 actually spined out closer to 320-315-ish.

LC

https://www.cabelas.ca/product/42808...w-blazer-vanes

Those are the the arrows I have with Montec G5 100gr broadheads. I have a PSE Stinger bow.

[Pasc43]

The shorter the arrows the straighter they will likely be as well.

[Jordan_BHA]

If you plan on hunting big bull elk, personally, I'd go to 60lbs. When I first moved up those 5-10lbs it was tough, but after a few trips to the range it gets easier and easier.

[Passthru]

I’m at 57 pound DW and 31” DL. My arrows weigh 550 grains. Get a good cut on contact fixed head and your good to go, I say. The previous years I was at 55 pound DW and the moose I’ve shot were all passthroughs. Granted I’ve got a long draw and heavier arrow but still, dead is dead. I can pull more poundage no problem but I keep it light to hold full draw for long periods in hunting situations and draw in extremely cold weather or with a bad case of buck fever

[petew]

Shoot them the way they are and see what they tune like. They put adjusting screws on rests for a reason.