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Old 02-07-2019, 06:26 PM
gloszz gloszz is offline
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Default Fryer oil/ WVO Conversion

Does anyone have any experience with fryer oil conversions ? I was initially looking for a Mercedes 300D to convert but apparently they're collector cars now. I opted for a 1995 Dodge ram. I have a few ideas how to go about doing this but maybe a few guys here would know how to do it best with our climate? I want to basically have cheaper fuel so I can scout more for hunting season and get out more than I already am.

So one idea is to mix 45 % diesel-5% gasoline- 50% filtered and dewatered veggie oil.

Second idea is to get an online heater for water and have a seperately fuel tank to warm it up to operating temp.

Last idea is to get a conversion kit and do it the proper and lazy way.
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Old 02-07-2019, 06:35 PM
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pikergolf pikergolf is offline
 
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What happened to moving to Texas?
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Old 02-07-2019, 06:41 PM
gloszz gloszz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikergolf View Post
What happened to moving to Texas?
Am I not allowed to have more than one car? Remind me to sell my car I have in Poland I use when I'm on vacation there.

I also wasn't aware I can't do anything in my free time haha. Maybe I'll convert a truck in Texas or engine swap it into a Dodge Ramcharger. Maybe a bronco?
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Old 02-07-2019, 07:14 PM
6.5swedeforelk 6.5swedeforelk is offline
 
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Every diesel I've had was converted to run
from may to oct on some ratio of wvo/diesel.
Below 40f it's not worth the hassle.

Mercedes 240D, (2) 300D, (2)chev 350
VW, dodge cummins, ford 6.9, Ford 3500 etc.

The best to do was the twin tank ford & chevs...
start/purge on the small diesel tank.

I used ref. heat exchangers to get the wvo
up to the 170f so the viscosity is like diesel.

That's all for now, you're probably the
only one curious about this.
Plus I'm still semi-frozen & tomorrows colder.
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Old 02-07-2019, 07:33 PM
gloszz gloszz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6.5swedeforelk View Post
Every diesel I've had was converted to run
from may to oct on some ratio of wvo/diesel.
Below 40f it's not worth the hassle.

Mercedes 240D, (2) 300D, (2)chev 350
VW, dodge cummins, ford 6.9, Ford 3500 etc.

The best to do was the twin tank ford & chevs...
start/purge on the small diesel tank.

I used ref. heat exchangers to get the wvo
up to the 170f so the viscosity is like diesel.

That's all for now, you're probably the
only one curious about this.
Plus I'm still semi-frozen & tomorrows colder.
Where did the get the tank and what kind? I was looking at a cheap plastic tank used for water and installing a 12v water heater. Would you say it is very complicated to do the switch wiring to start on diesel, warm up and then switch to diesel for a few minutes prior to turning off?
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:32 PM
gloszz gloszz is offline
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Bump.

I guess not many people like to tinker with things like this.
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Old 02-08-2019, 02:58 PM
Boogerfart Boogerfart is offline
 
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I thought this thread would get more traction than it did, this is a well researched and documented subject. I've owned a variety of diesels, VW, Mercedes, Ford, GM, Dodge, I spent a lot of time looking into biodiesel and wvo setups. Theres hours of stuff on YouTube and countless other sites about it, the biggest thing I found was not many people talk about how it works in -30... because it doesn't. The reason temperature is a issue is the fact that it affects viscosity and that's the secret to success with any alternative fuel. You can use almost any oil imaginable if you can get the viscosity correct. If it's too thick you'll wreck the pump and be out hunderds or thousands of dollars, depending on the vehicle. Heat is the simplest method of managing viscosity, most systems use the vehicles cooling system to heat the oil as it travels to the engine. This is easily done with jacketed piping, heating elements in the tank, and good insulation. The switch between fuels is easily done with a couple valves inside the cab, proper temperature probes are key to pump survival as well as cool down periods to flush any of the oil out of the fuel system before shutdown. This can all be done electronically of course but it adds thousands to your build costs.
If its strictly about cost savings you're better off to buy a older four cylinder or smaller import and do all the maintenance yourself.
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