Advice on Baitcaster

[GoneFishingEDM]

Hello, I'm new to the site. so far I'm finding all sorts of helpful information.

This winter I picked up my first baitcaster, been doing lots of practice casting with it using monofilament. With the season coming up, I want to switch over to braid. I've picked up some 30lb Suffix 832.

What I'm interested in, is what knot do you guys recommend for attaching my braided line to my 10 lb monofilament backing? I've heard the double uni or blood knot is good.

I've seen some videos on a GT knot or FG knot, they seem very small so I would think they would have little impact on the spool as well.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[deschambault]

I use a double uni and the FG knot looks interesting although I haven't tried it. A blood knot will slip with braid.

[RavYak]

I know you shouldn't ever end up down in your backing but I can't help but wonder why you would use 10 lb backing for 30 lb main line. Throw on some 30 lb backing(if it is a big reel) or just load it all up with braid(I do this on all my rods except ice because they don't offer bigger spools of ice line...).

Double uni knot is the common knot for mono backing to braid.

[GoneFishingEDM]

Thanks for the feedback.

RavYak, I heard that using all braid can cause it to slip since braid is so smooth and the backing just helps prevent that. I use all braid on my spinner reel and haven't had any issues yet, but the baitcaster is a whole new experience for me.

[kcward]

Curious what you picked up for a baitcast rod and reel. I have been wanting to try one, but everyone I talk has tried it and got rid of them. Have you had success casting with it? Many backlashes I hear until you get used to it.

[RavYak]

Originally Posted by kcward

Curious what you picked up for a baitcast rod and reel. I have been wanting to try one, but everyone I talk has tried it and got rid of them. Have you had success casting with it? Many backlashes I hear until you get used to it.

For fishing lures over 1/4 oz like rapalas, spoons etc you can't beat a bait caster. I love having better control over my casts and being able to thumb the spool on bigger fish or in times where you have to turn a fish quick to keep him out of a tree, weeds etc. I also like the way they feel in my hands better.

I would use baitcasters all the time but they do have their limitations. Light lures is the biggest one, spinning reels work much better.

The thing with baitcasters is that you need to buy a quality one. Too many people just buy a cheap one and then think they are horrible when they can't get them to work properly. If you buy a good one then you have much better braking systems with a lot more adjustability and once you get the technique down you will like it.

I prefer Shimano and I like the Curado's. The Citica's are good too though. Some of their bit cheaper ones are probably decent too but I would step up to one of these personally.

Abu Garcia has some good reels too, the Revo S is a good value reel and anything higher up is also good.

That isn't to say that the cheap ones are useless though. I started with a Pflueger Echelon and it did ok. I also owned a cheaper Quantum and it was crap though. The cheaper they are the worse they will be with lighter lures so if you are chucking heavier lures you can sometimes get away with the cheaper reels. The cheaper reels will wear out on you quicker though, my Echelon was only really good for 2 years unlike my Curado which has caught a lot more fish with no issues.

Learning to use a baitcaster does take a bit of learning though. You need to learn how to properly set your brakes and spool drag, there are videos on youtube that show you how to do that.

Another comment about baitcasters is that I think they work better with braided line. I also prefer smoother lines too now that I started using them, power pro slick is my go to on a baitcaster now.

[GoneFishingEDM]

Originally Posted by kcward

Curious what you picked up for a baitcast rod and reel. I have been wanting to try one, but everyone I talk has tried it and got rid of them. Have you had success casting with it? Many backlashes I hear until you get used to it.

I didn't go to crazy to start out with. I got a Quantum Accurist PT reel with a Quantum Catalyst Rod. I picked up some 1/4oz and 3/8 oz practice weights from the Fishing Hole. I've been practicing pretty regularly in a field. Day 1, I bird nested really bad on about the 4th try. After cutting out about 20 yards LOL. I cranked both my centrafugal break and my magnetic breaks all the way up, then slowly lowered the centrafugal break. I'm down to 2 out of 6 now, then I started lowering the magnetic break. I'm down to 5 our of 10. I haven't bird nested since. and I can outcast my spincaster with barely any effort.

I'll see how this year goes, I might upgrade next year if things go well. But so far I'm very impressed with the accuracy and distance. Practice seems to be the big thing. I recommend if you get one, pick up the practice weights and just cast and re-cast.

[RavYak]

Originally Posted by GoneFishingEDM

Thanks for the feedback.

RavYak, I heard that using all braid can cause it to slip since braid is so smooth and the backing just helps prevent that. I use all braid on my spinner reel and haven't had any issues yet, but the baitcaster is a whole new experience for me.

The trick is to tie your knot then take some hockey tape or electrical tape or duct tape and tape the line to the spool. I like the hockey tape with the rougher surface.

This tapes the line in place and then also acts as a surface for the braid on top to grip onto better(especially if you use the hockey tape).

Or you can tie a few feet of mono backing on instead but I would use 30 lb instead of 10(no reason to go light), you can get a short bit of mono for backing from fishin hole etc that sell bulk line if that is the reason you were going to go light.

[GoneFishingEDM]

Originally Posted by RavYak

The trick is to tie your knot then take some hockey tape or electrical tape or duct tape and tape the line to the spool. I like the hockey tape with the rougher surface.

This tapes the line in place and then also acts as a surface for the braid on top to grip onto better(especially if you use the hockey tape).

Or you can tie a few feet of mono backing on instead but I would use 30 lb instead of 10(no reason to go light), you can get a short bit of mono for backing from fishin hole etc that sell bulk line if that is the reason you were going to go light.

Thanks for the advice. I never thought of using hockey tape. I will give that a try I think.

Thanks again.

[GoneFishingEDM]

Originally Posted by RavYak

The trick is to tie your knot then take some hockey tape or electrical tape or duct tape and tape the line to the spool. I like the hockey tape with the rougher surface.

This tapes the line in place and then also acts as a surface for the braid on top to grip onto better(especially if you use the hockey tape).

Or you can tie a few feet of mono backing on instead but I would use 30 lb instead of 10(no reason to go light), you can get a short bit of mono for backing from fishin hole etc that sell bulk line if that is the reason you were going to go light.

Thanks for the advice RavYak, I picked up 30lb Suffix 832 last night and used the tape trick. Spooled up beautifully. Took it out for a few practices casts, the braided line flows so much nicer than the mono.

Thanks for the Tip

[Bushleague]

Originally Posted by RavYak

I know you shouldn't ever end up down in your backing but I can't help but wonder why you would use 10 lb backing for 30 lb main line. Throw on some 30 lb backing(if it is a big reel) or just load it all up with braid(I do this on all my rods except ice because they don't offer bigger spools of ice line...).

Double uni knot is the common knot for mono backing to braid.

Or just put a wrap of hockey tape around the spool.

[RavYak]

Originally Posted by Bushleague

Or just put a wrap of hockey tape around the spool.

Yeah that will help. If you do the tape on top it is even better(holds the line down and then gives the same backing).

[the11fisherman]

Originally Posted by GoneFishingEDM

Hello, I'm new to the site. so far I'm finding all sorts of helpful information.

This winter I picked up my first baitcaster, been doing lots of practice casting with it using monofilament. With the season coming up, I want to switch over to braid. I've picked up some 30lb Suffix 832.

What I'm interested in, is what knot do you guys recommend for attaching my braided line to my 10 lb monofilament backing? I've heard the double uni or blood knot is good.

I've seen some videos on a GT knot or FG knot, they seem very small so I would think they would have little impact on the spool as well.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Just curious.........what are you going for with 30 lb test? That seems like overkill for any of the fish you are going for in Alberta. True, pike, lake trout, and sturgeon all call get well over 30 pounds, but 30 lb test seems like overkill. I had a buddy that used to fish with 30 lb test and he would just bring in the fish as if he was pulling in a box, there was no fight nor sport. He literally turned off his drag and reeled in the fish. Not sporting whatsoever. Also, if you get a snag with that stuff, you are gonna have a heck of a time snapping it, especially if it is slightly stretchy like lots of lines are. My recommendation is that if you are going for pike, use 15-pound test. I have brought in lots of 25+ pound pike on this test. I have never been bitten off using this test for pike when I use a short wire leader to attach the hook. If I am going for Laketrout, I always use 12-pound test. I have easily brought in 20+ pound fish on this. If I am going for Sturgeon, I use 20-pound test and I have never been broken off. My biggest sturgeon to date was 40 pounds........nothing compared to Wayne though......he is the boss of sturgeon on this site. Now......if you are going for anything else in this province, there is no need to use anything over 12-pound test. Walleye rarely need more than 8-pound test. Trout (other than lakers) rarely need more than 5-pound test.

I know there are some trolls on here that will claim that these tests are too low for the species of fish I have mentioned. No, actually they are not. ON all reels there is a little nifty tool called a drag. When used properly, if it amazing what you can do. Do not set it at a specific spot for the day, play with it as you bring in the fish.

There are other trolls that are going to say "It probably takes you forever to bring in the fish and they are likely half dead when you FINALLY get them in. Nope...........it doesn't take me long and the fish always give to the tail splash in the face with their tail as I send them back to their home.

I was talking to a fish biologist (I don't normally quote biologists), but he told me that as far as he has seen, it harms the fish less to be brought in on their own accord than to be forced in very quickly. AKA use your DRAG.

Think of it this way. You are hooked in the cheek. Someone is trying to pull you in. Would it hurt you more if they cranked the reel as hard as they could to drag you in? (Well......being human your cheek would just tear if you were getting dragged in by lots of fishermen I have seen.) Or would it hurt you less if they allowed you to fight a bit against the line and allow you to come in when you were ready? I'm pretty sure the last one would hurt a heck of a lot less.

It was a weird idea from the biologist, but it makes sense to me.

This was a long rant just wondering why one earth you would use a line that big unless you were headed to the ocean to fish for something big, but not huge?

Oh, funny story....then I promise to shut up... So I was fishing once at Newell and there was this guy fishing near me and he had a typical sized Quantum rod with 50 pound test on it. I commented to him that it was over kill. He argued back saying that it allowed him to put is drag to the hardest level so he could get fish in quickly. Soon he hooked into a fish that I would have thought was around the 20+ range. He fought it for about a 10 seconds and all of a sudden all his guides busted and his line snapped on one of the busted guides. Man was he mad. A drive all the way from Calgary and he only brought one rod. He asked if he could use my spair. I bet you can guess my reply.....

[catnthehat]

I think it is the other end of thee spectrum where guys use ultralight gear for really big fish- balance iis the key.
I once knew a bass tournament guy who told me he cranked his drag right down and did not play the fish because the longer it is played the more likelihood of killing it either after release or in the live well.
Cat

[the11fisherman]

Originally Posted by catnthehat

I think it is the other end of thee spectrum where guys use ultralight gear for really big fish- balance iis the key.
I once knew a bass tournament guy who told me he cranked his drag right down and did not play the fish because the longer it is played the more likelihood of killing it either after release or in the live well.
Cat

It all depends on who you talk to I guess. The biologist told me the contrary. I personally have never had trouble with fish dying on me. I will agree with you when you say that using ultra light gear is not good. I once fished with a guy that used 5 pound for pike. He had to play the fish for a good 10 minutes before he managed to get it in. It looked half dead by the time he got it in. That is not right. But if you can't get a 20+ pound pike in on 12 pound test in a short time, it is time to go learn how to properly use your drag again.

[ROA]

Use the heavier line to learn with on the bait caster. It's way easier to untangle a birds nest with 30lbs braid than with 10. In fact a decent rats nest with 10 lb braid can be impossible to untangle as it cuts into itself so bad.

That brings me to another point. Bring an extra rod or at least a knife and spare spool of line when learning with a bait caster. Rats nest will ruin your day.

[the11fisherman]

Originally Posted by ROA

Use the heavier line to learn with on the bait caster. It's way easier to untangle a birds nest with 30lbs braid than with 10. In fact a decent rats nest with 10 lb braid can be impossible to untangle as it cuts into itself so bad.

That brings me to another point. Bring an extra rod or at least a knife and spare spool of line when learning with a bait caster. Rats nest will ruin your day.

Fair enough. It would be good to use while learning, but once proficient, it is definitely beneficial to use lighter line (but not too light)

[GoneFishingEDM]

I've been looking into this a lot as this is my first baitcaster. From what I've read, with baitcaster using a lighter braid can causes the braid to cut into itself on the reel. Since the braided line generally has a smaller diameter than mono, and is much smoother. Also if the line cuts back onto itself, then the line will not cast properly. Again this is all based on information I have read. I am by no means an expert on this.

[calgarygringo]

That happens if the line is not wound with any tenson. Is loose and when weight or resistance is on it cuts in to the loose wound line. Learn how to spool properly and will not be an issue. User problem not reels fault.

Originally Posted by GoneFishingEDM

I've been looking into this a lot as this is my first baitcaster. From what I've read, with baitcaster using a lighter braid can causes the braid to cut into itself on the reel. Since the braided line generally has a smaller diameter than mono, and is much smoother. Also if the line cuts back onto itself, then the line will not cast properly. Again this is all based on information I have read. I am by no means an expert on this.

[RavYak]

Originally Posted by the11fisherman

Just curious.........what are you going for with 30 lb test? That seems like overkill for any of the fish you are going for in Alberta. True, pike, lake trout, and sturgeon all call get well over 30 pounds, but 30 lb test seems like overkill. I had a buddy that used to fish with 30 lb test and he would just bring in the fish as if he was pulling in a box, there was no fight nor sport. He literally turned off his drag and reeled in the fish. Not sporting whatsoever. Also, if you get a snag with that stuff, you are gonna have a heck of a time snapping it, especially if it is slightly stretchy like lots of lines are. My recommendation is that if you are going for pike, use 15-pound test. I have brought in lots of 25+ pound pike on this test. I have never been bitten off using this test for pike when I use a short wire leader to attach the hook. If I am going for Laketrout, I always use 12-pound test. I have easily brought in 20+ pound fish on this. If I am going for Sturgeon, I use 20-pound test and I have never been broken off. My biggest sturgeon to date was 40 pounds........nothing compared to Wayne though......he is the boss of sturgeon on this site. Now......if you are going for anything else in this province, there is no need to use anything over 12-pound test. Walleye rarely need more than 8-pound test. Trout (other than lakers) rarely need more than 5-pound test.

I know there are some trolls on here that will claim that these tests are too low for the species of fish I have mentioned. No, actually they are not. ON all reels there is a little nifty tool called a drag. When used properly, if it amazing what you can do. Do not set it at a specific spot for the day, play with it as you bring in the fish.

There are other trolls that are going to say "It probably takes you forever to bring in the fish and they are likely half dead when you FINALLY get them in. Nope...........it doesn't take me long and the fish always give to the tail splash in the face with their tail as I send them back to their home.

I was talking to a fish biologist (I don't normally quote biologists), but he told me that as far as he has seen, it harms the fish less to be brought in on their own accord than to be forced in very quickly. AKA use your DRAG.

Think of it this way. You are hooked in the cheek. Someone is trying to pull you in. Would it hurt you more if they cranked the reel as hard as they could to drag you in? (Well......being human your cheek would just tear if you were getting dragged in by lots of fishermen I have seen.) Or would it hurt you less if they allowed you to fight a bit against the line and allow you to come in when you were ready? I'm pretty sure the last one would hurt a heck of a lot less.

It was a weird idea from the biologist, but it makes sense to me.

This was a long rant just wondering why one earth you would use a line that big unless you were headed to the ocean to fish for something big, but not huge?

Oh, funny story....then I promise to shut up... So I was fishing once at Newell and there was this guy fishing near me and he had a typical sized Quantum rod with 50 pound test on it. I commented to him that it was over kill. He argued back saying that it allowed him to put is drag to the hardest level so he could get fish in quickly. Soon he hooked into a fish that I would have thought was around the 20+ range. He fought it for about a 10 seconds and all of a sudden all his guides busted and his line snapped on one of the busted guides. Man was he mad. A drive all the way from Calgary and he only brought one rod. He asked if he could use my spair. I bet you can guess my reply.....

First of all braid doesn't stretch and breaking 30 lb braid is not hard, loop the line around the reel or a branch or something to make it solid then pull straight back and it will break fairly easy. I have broke 65 lb braid from my kayak in 150 feet of water, that was a little interesting but still doable.

It is easy to ask why should you use heavy line. But a better question is why not... 30 lb braid is the same size as 8 lb mono and casts better because of its lack of memory. You don't break off when you snag bottom(nice being able to straighten a hook and just replace treble instead of having to replace whole lure). You have much better abrasion resistance(which is one of the weaknesses of braid). Heavier braid also sits better on a baitcaster reel(doesn't cut into itself).

Have you ever watched pro bass fisherman fish for largemouth in heavy cover? They use 50 lb braid for 2-5 lb average fish... Guess you think they don't know what they are doing either? They only make their living fishing in the most competitive situation...

I used 30 lb braid for my pike and laker reels and recommend it to everyone targeting these fish specifically. 10 lb braid for trout, 15-20 lb for walleye, 50 lb for sturgeon. Which if you actually use 20 lb line to target sturgeon you should give your head a shake... The government use to have a website for sturgeon handling practices and using heavy line was one of them.

Regarding playing a fish, if you try to bring in a fish too quick you 9 times out of 10 rip the lure out of them. Most anglers quickly learn they have to play a fish and having your drag set properly to do so should not be dependent on line size. It should be solely dependent on the fish species and size you are targeting. The extra strength line for braid is just commonly used by many anglers including myself because it literally has no significant downsides while having numerous upsides. The only time stronger braid is a detriment is when you are trying to cast very light lures, which you can't do effectively with a baitcaster anyways... I would never go below 15 lb braid on a baitcaster reel.

Another thing to think about is that you should never set your drag more then 1/3 of your line strength. If you are only using 12 lb line that means you should have drag set at 4 lbs or less which is about right for small to average pike but for big ones you want a bit more especially if fishing near weeds, sunken trees etc.

[the11fisherman]

Originally Posted by RavYak

Have you ever watched pro bass fisherman fish for largemouth in heavy cover? They use 50 lb braid for 2-5 lb average fish... Guess you think they don't know what they are doing either? They only make their living fishing in the most competitive situation...

Not sure which fools you are watching, but when I have been watching T.V. specials featuring Clay Dyer, Rick Clunn, and Mark Davis, they use 6-7 foot rods with medium action and medium to light action tips 10-20 pound test on spinning reels or 10-25 pound test on baitcasting reels.

[RavYak]

Originally Posted by the11fisherman

Not sure which fools you are watching, but when I have been watching T.V. specials featuring Clay Dyer, Rick Clunn, and Mark Davis, they use 6-7 foot rods with medium action and medium to light action tips 10-20 pound test on spinning reels or 10-25 pound test on baitcasting reels.

Not in heavy cover they don't... Kevin VanDam, Mike Iaconelli, Greg Hackney, the list goes on...

http://www.captainkevblogs.com/newbl...nklineblog.pdf

https://www.bassmaster.com/node/40342

http://bassblaster.rocks/greg-hackne....XRLTCx6i.dpbs

You are right they use 10-20 on spinning reels for regular presentations(and many actually prefer fluorocarbon main line). On baitcasters for braid most use 20+ lb with 30 and 40+ also being very common especially for heavy cover.

I have already gone over this topic lots though. If targeting pike 30 lb braid is a great selection, it is small diameter, casts a mile, avoids breakoffs and abrasion much better and literally has no downsides. The OP made an excellent choice in picking his line for the situation.

[GoneFishingEDM]

It does cast a mile. I'm very impressed. Just changing to the 30lb Braid my casts are considerably farther than on the mono.

And I agree with the strength completely. I run 10lb Braid on me and my wife's spinners. She's had some serious snags, and I've never lot a hook to line breaks. Bent some of the hooks, but that's an easy fix as opposed to replacing the lures.

I'm not looking to rip the fish out of the water. I just went with the 30lb based on everything I've read and some great advice from people on this site.