Rust appearing on a rifle. What to do?

[fishnguy]

Long story short, I took my 10/22 for a walk with me yesterday and when taking it out of the vehicle, I grabbed it on the barrel. I noticed that it wasn’t smooth right away. When I came home, I took a closer look and didn’t see anything in normal light. It was only when I brought it under direct light, I noticed the rust (it seems to be rust).

I used it extensively last winter on bright days and in light snow. The gun was properly wiped and dried and cleaned every time before storing. I then haven’t used it until maybe this past July when I fired less than a hundred rounds on a dry sunny day, no moisture at all; I threw it back in the case without cleaning and haven’t touched it since until yesterday. I store it in a soft Cabela’s case with some of those silica gel in it. Dry Alberta environment in the house, lol.

Any ideas why this could happen and what can I do to fix the issue and prevent it from hopefully happening again?

I can’t blame it on the “cheap” barrel alone either (even if I wanted to) because the front ring has some of it too. The rear ring is as new. So there is definitely something happening or happened there. Also, it is not all over the barrel, most of it is nice and smooth at this time. I am the only one in the house who ever touches any of the firearms, cased or not.

The rifle was purchased 3 or 4 years ago.

Thank you.





P. S. I can see photos aren’t that great. I can try taking some better ones.

[fishnguy]

I think this should work better:

[CranePete]

My first thought would be to get rid of the soft case as a method of storage. They’re notorious moisture traps. Having said this, I picked up a Savage that showed similar freckling. I used some 4X steel wool(lightly) and G-96(generously) to remove the rust. My rifles live in a cabinet with desiccant tubs in the bottom. Good luck.
CranePete

[6.5 shooter]

Same same loose the cases....0000 steel wool and Balistol. Try some rough/course paper towel (Like you get in most washrooms) first, with the Balistol it may lift the rust before you resort to the steel wool.

[Dick284]

I’d stay clear of the steel wool as you will actually deposit raw steel bits onto the metal. I’d use a ultra fine scotch-brite pad and some synthetic motor oil(5w30).

Quit storing your firearms in soft cases, the foam under the lining is like a sponge and holds moisture.

[fps plus]

1 Do not store in case
2 Dampen 0000 steel or bronze wool with whatever gun oil you have and rub down to loosen and remove rust . Don’t recommend scotchbrite as even the finest will scratch the blueing
3 You can rub with a paste wax on the steel
4 store with a light amount of your favourite gun oil on the steel

[Drewski Canuck]

You need a chemical to break the rust from the blue, but you will still have to touch up that bluing.

Try CLR (yes, it removes rust). Wipe it on generously. Leave it a few hours to do its job, wipe clean with a soft cloth, wet, wipe dry.

Before re bluing, you need to de grease the metal for the bluing to take. Acetone, or varsol, but it has to be oil free for the bluing to take. Touch up the bluing, polish, then oil.

In the future when you are using the gun, when you put the gun away, give it a wipe down with a cloth with some oil on it. Even WD 40 is better than nothing. But yes, foam lines gun cases for storage wreck guns, even in our dry air. Imagine what they go through on the Coast where mould grows on the walls!

As for the debate on steel wool, the cold bluing kits actually come with extra fine steel wool. Your bluing problem cannot just be wiped away on that barrel.

Drewski

[elkhunter11]

I store all of my firearms in cases, and I have never had any corrosion issues. I do however spray some G-96 Gun Treatment onto every firearm, after each use. I also spray some G-96 into the liner of the case, or into the foam on hard cases now and then. The G-96 emits a protective vapor that prevents corrosion.

[ram crazy]

Cerakote and done.

[fishnguy]

Thanks for the replies, gents.

Ironically, I asked about storing my rifles in soft cases a couple of years ago on this very forum: http://outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=329772. There were some good replies and some laughs, good thread overall. I would say the responses for and against were about 50/50 with an “it’s ok” probably slightly winning. There was a good tip from elkhunter on the use of G96 and zabbo on the use of the gel packs to absorb moisture. I implemented both. The packs I had in the case are these, along with some smaller ones (the large pack is always next to the action and the rest thrown randomly along the barrel):



It could be the case that the rust appeared where the packs weren’t around the rifle, though the larger one wasn’t really that far from the scope and the front ring is still affected. I keep thinking when was the last time I sprayed G96 in the case itself as elkhunter suggested and I can’t recall it, so I may have not done it for a while, womp womp.

Thanks for all the advice. I will be taking it apart and seeing what I can do with it. As Drewski Canuck suggested, and I was thinking when I found the problem, it will probably need some touch up or bluing done. I have never done it before, but it looks like a fun little project (I didn’t really need at this time, lol). Any good kit suggestions? Or any other advice is still appreciated. I recall seeing some in Canadian Tire a few years ago, not sure if they still have them and if they are any good if they do.

Lol at Cerakote. If I had a shop, sandblasting equipment, and an oven large enough to fit the barrel in, it would be an even more fun project and this would probably be the gun to experiment on

Thank you.

[58thecat]

I would give'em a good wipe with WD40 and not put it in any soft cases....it's a 10/22 built to be rugged and git'r'dun type gun if you start treating it like a super high end shootin'iron you might as well sell it to me.....

[Flatlandliver]

Originally Posted by 58thecat

I would give'em a good wipe with WD40 and not put it in any soft cases....it's a 10/22 built to be rugged and git'r'dun type gun if you start treating it like a super high end shootin'iron you might as well sell it to me.....

You probably know more about guns then I ever will but WD40 attracts water and I wouldn’t recommend using it.

[AndrewM]

Originally Posted by Flatlandliver

You probably know more about guns then I ever will but WD40 attracts water and I wouldn’t recommend using it.

WD40 displaces water yet it is supposed to be hygroscopic. Wouldn't think it is both. i have definitely seen it used on rifles and those rifles looked like new. It is brutal for attracting dust and particles though.

[elkhunter11]

I don't use WD-40 on any firearms, it does displace water, but it attracts dust and gums things up.

[Flatlandliver]

Originally Posted by AndrewM

WD40 displaces water yet it is supposed to be hygroscopic. Wouldn't think it is both. i have definitely seen it used on rifles and those rifles looked like new. It is brutal for attracting dust and particles though.

WD40 is good for getting felt pen off of aluminum or plastic. There are far better products for the other 39 uses.

[Puma]

G96, I use that shxt on everything !

[Pathfinder76]

Originally Posted by ram crazy

Cerakote and done.

Gross.

[Pathfinder76]

Use Eezox or Corrosion X

[fishnguy]

^ Both of those look pretty good, Chuck. Do you know where to get either one? I tried quickly looking online and it’s all in the US or $45+ a pop on amazon Canada, while $9 in US.

Originally Posted by 58thecat

I would give'em a good wipe with WD40 and not put it in any soft cases....it's a 10/22 built to be rugged and git'r'dun type gun if you start treating it like a super high end shootin'iron you might as well sell it to me.....

Haha. That’s true. Took it apart, but couldn’t take the barrel out. Will go over it with G96 tomorrow (that’s the only thing I have among those that were mentioned, beside WD40) and see how it goes.

Thank again to everybody.

[6.5 shooter]

Originally Posted by Flatlandliver

WD40 is good for getting felt pen off of aluminum or plastic. There are far better products for the other 39 uses.

WD40 works nearly as well for starting Diesel engines as ether..without drying out the cylinder walls....Other then that, it is crap..

[Mateo]

WD-40 stands for Water Displacement - formula #40. developed to coat military missiles for transport and keep them corrosion free. It's also a degreaser.

[58thecat]

Originally Posted by Mateo

WD-40 stands for Water Displacement - formula #40. developed to coat military missiles for transport and keep them corrosion free. It's also a degreaser.

Yup....I just use crap,that works....KISS

[58thecat]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

I don't use WD-40 on any firearms, it does displace water, but it attracts dust and gums things up.

ya gotta wip'er down......don't put'er away wet

[Dean2]

If you have Hoppes 9 it does a great job of removing rust and it will not harm your bluing. A little Hoppes on a rough rag should do the trick. Wipe the outside and inside with Hoppes for storage, do not store in a case, and give them a fresh wipe every year at least in Alberta. If you touch the gun, wipe it off with a Hoppes wetted rag, the acid and salt from you hands will promote rust.

For more pronounced or stubborn rust, 4 aught (0000) steel wool with Hoppes on it for the harder to remove rust will also not harm your bluing at all. Wipe with Hoppes and a rag to finish up.

[fishnguy]

^ I do have Hoppes. Will try that next.

I went over the barrel with G96 and did help a little:



Will try Hoppes next.

The only rusty dots are in this area and only on one side, more or less, of the barrel:



The barrel came off easily, not sure why I couldn’t take it off yesterday. All the inside parts, and everything else really (aside from the front ring), appear to be in excellent condition.

[Dick284]

Originally Posted by fishnguy

^ I do have Hoppes. Will try that next.

I went over the barrel with G96 and did help a little:



Will try Hoppes next.

The only rusty dots are in this area and only on one side, more or less, of the barrel:



The barrel came off easily, not sure why I couldn’t take it off yesterday. All the inside parts, and everything else really (aside from the front ring), appear to be in excellent condition.

Right in front of the foreend.
Right where you’d grab it.

[fishnguy]

Makes sense. That’s exactly where I grabbed it and right away felt it.
Thanks for that insight, Dick. I didn’t even think about it.

[Dick284]

Originally Posted by fishnguy

Makes sense. That’s exactly where I grabbed it and right away felt it.
Thanks for that insight, Dick. I didn’t even think about it.

You’ll only ever just control the rust, the surface condition is compromised. It’ll always be a problem area that you’ll always have to pay extra attention to. Unless you’re willing to invest into a re finish job.

Thank goodness it’s just a 10/22, and not a $2000 semi custom rig. Which is likely a small conciliation as it’s still something a guy used his hard earned cash to buy.

Learn from it, don’t store firearms in soft cases, and wipe things down before storing them.

[Jayhad]

What a perfect opportunity to justify another rifle.

[Pathfinder76]

Originally Posted by fishnguy

^ Both of those look pretty good, Chuck. Do you know where to get either one? I tried quickly looking online and it’s all in the US or $45+ a pop on amazon Canada, while $9 in US.


Haha. That’s true. Took it apart, but couldn’t take the barrel out. Will go over it with G96 tomorrow (that’s the only thing I have among those that were mentioned, beside WD40) and see how it goes.

Thank again to everybody.

Eezox is available from Plenty O Patches in Raymond. Corrosion X is tough to find.