Extended warranty for truck - is it worth it?

[32-40win]

You need to check what mechanical related items are really covered, progressive damage coverage is a special one. Need to read it and ask the shop what they know about it as well. If one part of a "covered" component fails, that takes out a bunch of non-listed items---will they pay on those, or do you? IE; a valve collet lets go, or an injector drops a tip, or a pump failure contaminates and takes out the engine, what will they pay for and NOT pay for.
Will it cover downstream emissions component repairs from an upstream failure of a "covered" component? Don't ask the sales guys, ask the shop and some mechanics.

[Sooner]

I have done the extended warranty 3 times on Fords i owned, each one was 2G or less for similar coverage. All 3 paid themselves off 3x's over with stupid stuff like alternators and starters. One claim was a transmission just after warranty. Anything even close to a major breakdown will cost 2G on a diesel.

You really have to read the fine print, see what your deductible will be(i negotiated mine down on each) and what's really covered, where it can be repaired, is the tow paid for? If you have revisions, get the finance person to add it to the contract and sign it.

[birdee]

your paying for the warranty up front if you use it your golden
if not you loose the dealership wins
they don't build the big show rooms because they loose money.
biggest scam out there been in auto repair industry for about 40 yrs.
seen the claims disallowed

[Tfng]

Extended warranty paid off in spades for me. I bought a used pickup that had some warranty left but I decided to get the extended as well.

I had a few smaller claims and one big one for trans and torque converter which was my fault but they still covered it. All told the repairs were more than 4x what I paid for the warranty.

Obviously they're in it for the money but it paid off for me.

[tullfan]

It's paying for my new rad that is 12k out of reg warranty. Thats 3500 bucks that I don't have to pay.
Just payed for itself.
It's with First Canadian. I read horror stories about them and started freaking a bit, but it worked out.
Tullfan

[troutbug]

If you own a dodge, definitley. Biggest mistake I ever made was a dodge. Always in for warranty work for crazy things going wrong. Had water coming out of my roof console and side handles the other day. That is just one of the many thigs.

[Big Lou]

Originally Posted by bobinthesky

Extended warranty is a gamble. You're gambling that you might have a problem and the manufacturer is gambling that you wont. The difference is that the manufacturer has done the math and you haven't!

I'd have to agree with this. I've purchased the extended on new vehicles and have not. Two vehicles I experienced engine failure. One had extended and the other didn't. It was about a month long fight before they honoured the extended. The one I didn't have extended on piled up 3000km over my standard warranty period ended and cost me large. It was a wash between the two in the end but specifically on what you're asking, it was a fight and was the same warranty you're musing about purchasing.

I like driving new as much as the next guy but for me, cost of ownership has proven to be much less buying used and fixing what needs to be done as it comes out of pocket.

[jstubbs]

With an LML Duramax like yours, I'd buy it. Never know when that CP4 injection pump is going to blow up and take your injectors with it, or a DPF/DEF starts having problems.

[Taco]

Originally Posted by jstubbs

With an LML Duramax like yours, I'd buy it. Never know when that CP4 injection pump is going to blow up and take your injectors with it, or a DPF/DEF starts having problems.

Particularly one that has had a leisurely life like his. Diesels need to work for a living.

[knacker]

Extended warranties are great when you need them, unfortunately the time extension is still set for a period which will benefit the seller more than the buyer.

I prefer to purchase lotto tickets. That way endorphin's are released even when I am throwing my money away

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by tullfan

It's paying for my new rad that is 12k out of reg warranty. Thats 3500 bucks that I don't have to pay.
Just payed for itself.
It's with First Canadian. I read horror stories about them and started freaking a bit, but it worked out.
Tullfan

You mean $350?

[tullfan]

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

You mean $350?

Nope, as I wrote. $3500. 2015 F350 super duty 6.7l. Book says 5hours at 158 an hour, cost of rad, fluids, rental and any incendentals, shop supplies,cet. If it was 350 bucks I'd do it myself. But thanks for assuming you knew the details of the repair. Maybe I should have listed my vehicle when I wrote my reply, my bad. Sorry for that.
Tullfan

[Tactical Lever]

You mean assuming that it's not a rip off?? Well OK. I guess you know better.

I've done my own and upgraded at the same time for about $400. It sure wasn't 5 hours, maybe because I didn't have to take the truck apart. And if they are selling a radiator for $2500, someone's taking it hard.

[Tactical Lever]

I guess I'd like more details. Wow.

[tullfan]

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

I guess I'd like more details. Wow.

It very well may take two hours, I could easily go and get another rad and install it. It's a rad. You know the dealer is going to invoice the whole 5h. I'm not going to get into a argument with you but if you can put a new rad in my truck for 400 bucks, heck I'll hire you to do it And tell the dealer to hold off. I need my truck by Tuesday but it shouldn't be a problem cause it's a quick job for you.Heck I'll give you 500 cash. Bring the new rad, your tools and have at her cause it sounds like your somebody handy to know who can get things done.
Sorry guys, I was just saying that for me and my new to me truck extended warranty paid for itself for me, and was worth it for me. Well maybe, extended warranty may be being over charged. Hope they don't find out about the $400 rads for sale.
Me and my $.02 is out.

Tullfan

[troutbug]

Originally Posted by tullfan

It very well may take two hours, I could easily go and get another rad and install it. It's a rad. You know the dealer is going to invoice the whole 5h. I'm not going to get into a argument with you but if you can put a new rad in my truck for 400 bucks, heck I'll hire you to do it And tell the dealer to hold off. I need my truck by Tuesday but it shouldn't be a problem cause it's a quick job for you.Heck I'll give you 500 cash. Bring the new rad, your tools and have at her cause it sounds like your somebody handy to know who can get things done.
Sorry guys, I was just saying that for me and my new to me truck extended warranty paid for itself for me, and was worth it for me. Well maybe, extended warranty may be being over charged. Hope they don't find out about the $400 rads for sale.
Me and my $.02 is out.

Tullfan

Depending on the truck I can believe the 5 hour quote as some newer trucks the whole front end needs to be torn apart to get the darn thing out lol

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by tullfan

It very well may take two hours, I could easily go and get another rad and install it. It's a rad. You know the dealer is going to invoice the whole 5h. I'm not going to get into a argument with you but if you can put a new rad in my truck for 400 bucks, heck I'll hire you to do it And tell the dealer to hold off. I need my truck by Tuesday but it shouldn't be a problem cause it's a quick job for you.Heck I'll give you 500 cash. Bring the new rad, your tools and have at her cause it sounds like your somebody handy to know who can get things done.
Sorry guys, I was just saying that for me and my new to me truck extended warranty paid for itself for me, and was worth it for me. Well maybe, extended warranty may be being over charged. Hope they don't find out about the $400 rads for sale.
Me and my $.02 is out.

Tullfan

I didn't come here for an argument myself, but it sounds like you are ticked at me. I'm not the one that charged you $3500 for a new radiator. I really thought you hit a wrong number by accident. I get that some jobs are a little tougher on some trucks, but that's the price of a re-manufactured automatic transmission installed. And that was about the price of a recent quote, for my truck not quite a year ago if you are wondering.

You don't live around St. Paul do you? I can think of one Ford place that might charge that. But that sounds high even for them. They were going to charge my Uncle $850 for a new rad, thermostat, flush, belts and whatever else they could throw in there on an older Crown Vic. (Might have even had a heater core in there.) He ended up taking it to another place, and if I recall right it was more like $100 for a new fan clutch to be installed. I wouldn't trust aforementioned dealership with a fire extinguisher if my truck was on fire. Which it was thanks to them.

In case you were wondering and want to check it out yourself, I bought the rad from a place called Norwest Cooling Systems (if I am remembering the name correctly), for an older truck. It would have been about two hundred and some bucks for an aluminium 4 core rad, but I upgraded to a copper/brass unit that weighed about 50 lbs. for $350. It came from Thailand I believe. I bought a couple gallons of antifreeze for about $30, and probably some de-ionized water also, along with a rad cap ($8?) and maybe even a thermostat since I was dumping coolant anyway. So all in about $400 (about 7 years ago). Only one hose in and one out, not counting the overflow which I dumped out and rinsed, since it was a manual tranny. Probably 4 bolts holding the whole deal in there. So mine was probably a little easier. Plus my time.

On your truck, they quoted 5 hours, which is $790. A high rate which is somewhat par for a dealership. And I have no problem with flat rate, and it probably is a slightly(?) bigger job than my old truck was. But that means your rad and supplies cost $2700??! Does that come with handles?

I bet you would be happy with a $500 bill for a rad change. I think I would have to charge $800 an hour though, if dealerships can get away with that kind of gouging.

[Tactical Lever]

As for the extended warranty, I wouldn't get it. Never was one that didn't have a deductible. If it was $2000, there is probably $1000 deductible. And a power train warranty only covers probably the most reliable parts on your truck. Kind of guessing, but I bet they consider injectors consumables, or not covered, and no engine management electronics.

Worked at a small used car place for a while once, and my boss, the owner considered them a rip off and didn't like selling them.

[Bushrat]

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

On your truck, they quoted 5 hours, which is $790. A high rate which is somewhat par for a dealership. And I have no problem with flat rate, and it probably is a slightly(?) bigger job than my old truck was. But that means your rad and supplies cost $2700??! Does that come with handles?

I bet you would be happy with a $500 bill for a rad change. I think I would have to charge $800 an hour though, if dealerships can get away with that kind of gouging.

Apparently you have never taken a modern Ford F-350 turbo diesel apart to change the rad. Sure you can replace it yourself for less with aftermarket parts if you have the specialty tools and charge nothing for your labour or overhead, but I'd still like to see your do it for $500.00. It's nothing like the simple in and out procedure for changing a rad on an older Crown Vic or older gas job truck.

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by Bushrat

Apparently you have never taken a modern Ford F-350 turbo diesel apart to change the rad. Sure you can replace it yourself for less with aftermarket parts if you have the specialty tools and charge nothing for your labour or overhead, but I'd still like to see your do it for $500.00. It's nothing like the simple in and out procedure for changing a rad on an older Crown Vic or older gas job truck.

Well I'm glad I made that much clear... I guess.. What I said is the hours are probably justified. Flat rate is decided by automotive publications and as far as I know decided upon by automotive engineers. They would know better than I. I know many mechanics can get the work done in less time, but I have no issue with that.

What I am wondering, is why the radiator itself (and shop supplies) is costing as much as a transmission. Is it off a 16 cylinder natural gas compressor?? There is nothing special about a "Ford" stamped rad, or International rads either. Ford doesn't make it, and gets it from an outside source also. Essentially making it an overpriced aftermarket part itself. Just a cheap piece of aluminium junk, that will probably rot out or catch a rock in a few years and need to be replaced by some more recycled pop cans.

Apparently I will never buy a newer diesel F-350 though. Never heard of speciality tools for taking a rad out; but I suppose anything is possible.

[Tactical Lever]

And I'm not working on anybody else's busted truck! Not sure where you fellas saw where I said I wouldn't charge someone else for my time...

Well, I guess I could be convinced to do minor repairs, if I get to charge whatever I want. And you talk real nice.

If the rad is out of a 2015, why not repair it? Or does repairing it cost a couple thousand bucks too?

If I got a quote like that, I would be real interested in what another (trusted) shop said.

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by Bushrat

Apparently you have never taken a modern Ford F-350 turbo diesel apart to change the rad. Sure you can replace it yourself for less with aftermarket parts if you have the specialty tools and charge nothing for your labour or overhead, but I'd still like to see your do it for $500.00. It's nothing like the simple in and out procedure for changing a rad on an older Crown Vic or older gas job truck.

Instead of busting Tactical Levers chops you might want to open up your mind and listen to what he is telling you. Not everyone on here is intent on making the other guy look like a dofus. Most of us are genuinely trying to help.

Rock Auto has Factory new Motocraft 2015 Ford F-350 Super Duty Rad for $562 Canadian plus $130 Canadian for shipping. That is $2600 less, which to me is a hell of a lot less than your dealership. If you want someone in Edmonton that will install supplied parts at $100 an hour PM me and I will give you the name of a real reliable fellow that runs a full time repair shop.

That would make the total job $1,200 instead of the $3,500 you are being quoted, and that would only be $200 more than the deductible on most extended warranties.

[Bushrat]

Originally Posted by Dean2

Instead of busting Tactical Levers chops you might want to open up your mind and listen to what he is telling you. Not everyone on here is intent on making the other guy look like a dofus. Most of us are genuinely trying to help.

Rock Auto has Factory new Motocraft 2015 Ford F-350 Super Duty Rad for $562 Canadian plus $130 Canadian for shipping. That is $2600 less, which to me is a hell of a lot less than your dealership. If you want someone in Edmonton that will install supplied parts at $100 an hour PM me and I will give you the name of a real reliable fellow that runs a full time repair shop.

That would make the total job $1,200 instead of the $3,500 you are being quoted, and that would only be $200 more than the deductible on most extended warranties.

hmmm, I didn't say anyone was a dufus, if that was what you think I was saying then you should also realize that it seems like Tactical and you are saying those who may not have the equipment, mechanical aptitude, tools and a shop to do it and have to rely on dealers or mechanical shops to perform these services are dufuses. 6 of one half a dozen of the other.

By the way $1200 is very reasonable and at no time did I say it should cost $3500.

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by Bushrat

hmmm, I didn't say anyone was a dufus, if that was what you think I was saying then you should also realize that it seems like Tactical and you are saying those who may not have the equipment, mechanical aptitude, tools and a shop to do it and have to rely on dealers or mechanical shops to perform these services are dufuses. 6 of one half a dozen of the other.

By the way $1200 is very reasonable and at no time did I say it should cost $3500.

You are right, that was Tullfan said it was $3,500, you were only sticking up for him, should have addresses it to him I guess. As far as doing own work, the 1,200 I provided IS the cost of having a shop do the work.

I was NOT calling people who can't do their own work a dufus nor do I say you or Tullfan called anyone a dufus. Lets not get into name calling that has no benefit when all TL and I are trying to do is help Tullfan save a large chunk of money .

What I am saying is even if you can't do your own work it sure does pay to shop around a little. I am also saying extended warranty won't usually save you what it costs if you are putting it on a vehicle you have had from new and have had not history of problems with.

[Bushrat]

Originally Posted by Dean2

You are right, that was Tullfan said it was $3,500, you were only sticking up for him, should have addresses it to him I guess. As far as doing own work, the 1,200 I provided IS the cost of having a shop do the work.

I was NOT calling people who can't do their own work a dufus nor do I say you or Tullfan called anyone a dufus. Lets not get into name calling that has no benefit when all TL and I are trying to do is help Tullfan save a large chunk of money .

What I am saying is even if you can't do your own work it sure does pay to shop around a little. I am also saying extended warranty won't usually save you what it costs if you are putting it on a vehicle you have had from new and have had not history of problems with.

Agreed.

I never buy extended warranties. I do my own maintenance and repairs, have not had any kind of major repairs on my vehicles that ever would have made it worthwhile purchasing extended warranties.

[hogie]

It would be nice to see the breakdown on the $3500. There are a few more parts involved then just the rad. O- rings are used for sealing, AC also has to be dealt with so gaskets and seals there as well. Some of these extra little thing add up in a hurry. Could be an extra few hundred in billing as well. Usually a flat charge for AC that would not be reflected in hours charged out.

Also stated that it covered rental vehicle , insurance and other things. If he had a rental that would add to costs as well. Maybe there was another part involved that had to be added on once work was started. May have been a problem with the secondary cooling system that may have been discovered once into repair.

I work in a dealership and this seems high but I also know that parts prices would have been marked up more because of aftermarket warranty. The dealers mark up because the warranty company will try to get lowered pricing on parts. Lots of dealing over prices sometimes.

Unfortunately what used to be relatively simple jobs to do have become way more complex. Some times special tools are needed for disconnecting lines. AC system usually has to be dealt with, new environmentally safe fluids are more expensive. New AC type out that is way more expensive. Many rads are using o rings on hoses not clamps.

Not sure about all deductible for plans but I know Fords is generally $100. Aftermarket could be more, probably something that is negotiable when buying plan. Cheaper the deductible the more the plan is.

Personally I usually get extended warranty for most things except my vehicles. My labour is cheap as I can do it myself and have access to all the special equipment and tools needed for repair. Most of the time my extended warranty has paid for itself.

Have a talk with service department about plan and ask if it's a good one for coverage. Ask what is covered and what's not. They should be able to tell you more than the guy selling.

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by Dean2

Instead of busting Tactical Levers chops you might want to open up your mind and listen to what he is telling you. Not everyone on here is intent on making the other guy look like a dofus. Most of us are genuinely trying to help.

Rock Auto has Factory new Motocraft 2015 Ford F-350 Super Duty Rad for $562 Canadian plus $130 Canadian for shipping. That is $2600 less, which to me is a hell of a lot less than your dealership. If you want someone in Edmonton that will install supplied parts at $100 an hour PM me and I will give you the name of a real reliable fellow that runs a full time repair shop.

That would make the total job $1,200 instead of the $3,500 you are being quoted, and that would only be $200 more than the deductible on most extended warranties.

Thanks, Dean. I also listed a few shops in the "Busted Dodge" thread.

Originally Posted by Bushrat

hmmm, I didn't say anyone was a dufus, if that was what you think I was saying then you should also realize that it seems like Tactical and you are saying those who may not have the equipment, mechanical aptitude, tools and a shop to do it and have to rely on dealers or mechanical shops to perform these services are dufuses. 6 of one half a dozen of the other.

By the way $1200 is very reasonable and at no time did I say it should cost $3500.

I did not get that feeling from Dean, and I hope no one thought that I implied that. Just giving a comparison and a cost break down. And I certainly don't do everything myself. There are time restraints, comfort level, and stuff that just isn't in my wheel house. Transmissions and gears for example. I usually won't do stuff that I know will have the vehicle sitting for more than a day, as sometimes I will walk away, have a hard time getting into it, and it will sit for ages.

I really don't have much for specialized tools, other than some air tools, and a decent impact wrench, small tap and die set, bearing puller, hydraulic press, carb sync gauges, and a couple of cheap torque wrenches. Most of the stuff I bought for doing a wheel bearing. (And spent as much as I would have getting a shop to do it.) Had to modify a tool to fit for that one too. There isn't very much that I care to do that I can't with a bigger tool kit from Sears or Canadian Tire, and a decent set of wrenches. If buy it all when they have the 75% off sales you can get a pretty good basic set for a couple hundred dollars. Change your alternator and it paid for itself.

[tullfan]

I don't want anyone to think I'm being a jerk. The rad issue in the truck was discovered when I brought the truck in to have a Engine code checked out. My truck has 72k on it, I bought it with 56. Now the check engine code was for an egr cooler issue. THAT repair was covered under the Ford factory warranty. Now as they were repairing that or they noticed a leak in the drivers side lower rad. (coolant needed to be drained and refilled for the egr repair.) Anyway dealer called and told me about the leak. It's a known issue where the plastic ends of the rad are crimped to the aluminum rad itself. That issue is NOT covered as I was 12 k out of factory warranty. I have extended that will cover it with a $200 deductible. So out of my pocket is $200 that's it. Regardless if the repair is $250 or $3500, the cost to me is still $200. I don't actually care what the break down is or what the actual costs are. The main reason for this repair going to warranty and me not doing it myself or having a rad shop do it is that as a known issue, if it should happen again it's covered for me again with NO deductible. Now I started life as an automotive mechanic and am now a journeyman motorcycle mechanic so wrenching is not an issue for me. If no warranty was available I would simply buy an after marked upgraded all aluminum rad and install it or have it installed to eliminate any future crimping issues. The all aluminum rad has a lifetime warranty.By the way the dealer just happened to have a rad in stock.
So as you can see, the cost is neither here nor there to me other than the deductible. It's like i said before, the rad has known issues and I don't want a repeat failure. Im sure I can have it done cheaper but the extended warranty wants dealer to install, again who cares. It's their money and they call the shots.I bet if I were paying out of pocket it would be less expensive, like the dentist.
I apologize to Tactical if it seemed like I was picking a fight I wasn't and I don't this to get out of hand. I was a simple question to answer or so I thought. To anyone else that got dragged into this, also sorry. Hope this helps clarify a bit.
Tullfan

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by tullfan

I don't want anyone to think I'm being a jerk. The rad issue in the truck was discovered when I brought the truck in to have a Engine code checked out. My truck has 72k on it, I bought it with 56. Now the check engine code was for an egr cooler issue. THAT repair was covered under the Ford factory warranty. Now as they were repairing that or they noticed a leak in the drivers side lower rad. (coolant needed to be drained and refilled for the egr repair.) Anyway dealer called and told me about the leak. It's a known issue where the plastic ends of the rad are crimped to the aluminum rad itself. That issue is NOT covered as I was 12 k out of factory warranty. I have extended that will cover it with a $200 deductible. So out of my pocket is $200 that's it. Regardless if the repair is $250 or $3500, the cost to me is still $200. I don't actually care what the break down is or what the actual costs are. The main reason for this repair going to warranty and me not doing it myself or having a rad shop do it is that as a known issue, if it should happen again it's covered for me again with NO deductible. Now I started life as an automotive mechanic and am now a journeyman motorcycle mechanic so wrenching is not an issue for me. If no warranty was available I would simply buy an after marked upgraded all aluminum rad and install it or have it installed to eliminate any future crimping issues. The all aluminum rad has a lifetime warranty.By the way the dealer just happened to have a rad in stock.
So as you can see, the cost is neither here nor there to me other than the deductible. It's like i said before, the rad has known issues and I don't want a repeat failure. Im sure I can have it done cheaper but the extended warranty wants dealer to install, again who cares. It's their money and they call the shots.I bet if I were paying out of pocket it would be less expensive, like the dentist.
I apologize to Tactical if it seemed like I was picking a fight I wasn't and I don't this to get out of hand. I was a simple question to answer or so I thought. To anyone else that got dragged into this, also sorry. Hope this helps clarify a bit.
Tullfan

No problem, thanks for that. Just raised an eyebrow.

I would just pay the $200 myself. Glad it worked out for you.

[tullfan]

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

No problem, thanks for that. Just raised an eyebrow.

I would just pay the $200 myself. Glad it worked out for you.

Ok, so seems I was miss informed from the get go. I was going off the numbers the service adviser gave me. The "about $3500 repair" was actually $2600 and change out the door. Rad was 1360, labour 8 and change, coolant and gaskets another 100 and a bit. Rental less than expected. Asked the service adviser why the difference in the costs. He said that that was covering any unexpected circumstances broken bits or what nots? Hmmmm, just glad to have my truck back. Just hope the work is better than the quote.
So to all you guys that said that the repair seemed high. you were right on. Sorry for the confusion.
Tullfan