Are Ram Trucks Really That Bad?

[67ZL1]

Reading the other forum about the Ford vs Dodge thingy and am suprized at all the hate towards Ram. I’m actually considering ordering a 3500 Ram 6.7 Cummins with a G56 in the Fall. Accountant says we need some write offs for next year. I’m a GM guy and run Fords for my company vehicles and have had next to nothing for truck issues. Just looking to switch it up a bit. I know the stock clutch is a POS but I can swap that out myself, and I have the Cummins software on my laptop for diagnostics. I’ve been building the trucks online and all 3 brands are fairly close in pricing.

[catnthehat]

I have lots of friends who are die hard Dodge fans and have been fir years .
The bottom line is , you pick the truck you like and drive it until it breaks- and the are ALL pieces of junk when they break!!
Cat

[ETOWNCANUCK]

The only good thing about Ram trucks is Cummins

[67ZL1]

I’ve seen employee operators destroy 2500 GM’s with literally less than 30k on them, and other guys can manage to bend the frame on their F-150’s too.

[ROA]

I have run them all 12 months a year in the worst conditions Alberta has to offer. There is no one best truck. I buy what is the best deal at the time and take my chances. Currently running a 2016 2500 ram. It’s just fine.

[270person]

Only at 17,000 kms on a 2017 Dodge and so far the only thing I don't care for is the coil springs and the NAV is brutal.

[hogie]

Originally Posted by 67ZL1

I’ve seen employee operators destroy 2500 GM’s with literally less than 30k on them, and other guys can manage to bend the frame on their F-150’s too.

Those guys are great for business. They treat a vehicle like crap. Remember explaining to guy on proper use of his 4x4 system. Looked at me and said " don't own a bolt in it don't give a f** k".

[ROA]

Originally Posted by hogie

Those guys are great for business. They treat a vehicle like crap. Remember explaining to guy on proper use of his 4x4 system. Looked at me and said " don't own a bolt in it don't give a f** k".

Operators treat the trucks they same way they are being treated...like ****.

[muledriver]

Originally Posted by hogie

Those guys are great for business. They treat a vehicle like crap. Remember explaining to guy on proper use of his 4x4 system. Looked at me and said " don't own a bolt in it don't give a f** k".

Don't you just love those type of employees?

They are the first ones to whine and complain about "the company", aren't they? I've avoided hiring those type as much as possible, and broom them out if they slipped by the screening process. No employer needs them.

[MountainTi]

Been driving them (and using for work in some pretty harsh conditions) since I bought my first diesel in '01. There's a reason I have stayed with them.
Have 3 right now. Wouldn't have any other brand

No different than the 30/06 vs. 270 debate. Personal preference

[Arty]

You're buying a new truck as a tax writeoff?

Sure, go 'head. Please report back here next year what you've found. Please list all parts and fluid changes, and all required repairs and probable causes for said repairs.

I think people are generally running vehicles way harder with less maintenance than they were designed and built for. (Not what they SHOULD have been designed/built for).

[67ZL1]

Originally Posted by Arty

You're buying a new truck as a tax writeoff?

Sure, go 'head. Please report back here next year what you've found. Please list all parts and fluid changes, and all required repairs and probable causes for said repairs.

I think people are generally running vehicles way harder with less maintenance than they were designed and built for. (Not what they SHOULD have been designed/built for).

Not for my personal tax, for business write off.

[Taco]

What Cat said! ^^^

[TimeOff]

The way some guy's drive trucks in the field, the manufacturers should built a 1 ton version of the Ford Raptor. No truck can be expected to go 80 or 100 km/hr down a potholed road and last 100,000 kms without repair. Best thing after regular servicing is not punishing the vehicle, if it's rough or loaded, Slow Down!

[liar]

Originally Posted by 67ZL1

Reading the other forum about the Ford vs Dodge thingy and am suprized at all the hate towards Ram. I’m actually considering ordering a 3500 Ram 6.7 Cummins with a G56 in the Fall. Accountant says we need some write offs for next year. I’m a GM guy and run Fords for my company vehicles and have had next to nothing for truck issues. Just looking to switch it up a bit. I know the stock clutch is a POS but I can swap that out myself, and I have the Cummins software on my laptop for diagnostics. I’ve been building the trucks online and all 3 brands are fairly close in pricing.

if you want expenses to right off then yup , dodge is the way to go !

i may be a little biased since the tranny in mine piled up this week , $4000 estimate to repair . i have never had transmission problems with my gms , but im sure other people have . at the end of the day , you may as well ask what the best colour is cause thats how many opinions your going to get .

[sns2]

Originally Posted by liar

if you want expenses to right off then yup , dodge is the way to go !

i may be a little biased since the tranny in mine piled up this week , $4000 estimate to repair . i have never had transmission problems with my gms , but im sure other people have . at the end of the day , you may as well ask what the best colour is cause thats how many opinions your going to get .

Ain't that the truth ^^^^

[Norwest Alta]

Don't get the air ride suspension. The service dept has been very busy dealing with air ride problems.

[67ZL1]

Originally Posted by liar

if you want expenses to right off then yup , dodge is the way to go !

i may be a little biased since the tranny in mine piled up this week , $4000 estimate to repair . i have never had transmission problems with my gms , but im sure other people have . at the end of the day , you may as well ask what the best colour is cause thats how many opinions your going to get .

I’ve had a few Allisons and 5R110’s pile up to the tune of 4500-7000.00
I’m looking to switch things up a bit that’s why I was asking about the Rams. I was reading the Ram forums and saw a lot of posts about leaking sunroofs, driveline vibrations etc. Not sure if these issues were year specific or what?

[Ken07AOVette]

Apparently some of the ecopoof sunroofs are having leaking problems too, but I have not noticed it in my '16. More disheartening about the Fords is the rear windows blowing out when you turn on electric defrost.

[Fifth Wheel]

From a GMC/Chev guy, I would rather drive or maintain a Ford than a Dodge any day. For many reasons, I always hated Ram trucks and could never get comfortable with them. (I don't even like their looks). I would agree that the Cummins is the only good thing about them if you are going diesel.

As for Ford, I promised a "Customer Service" jerk in Oshawa that I would never recommend one to family or friends as long as I lived after getting beat up on a warranty frame issue in the '80s (Class 8 cabover -- long story). When I threatened to sue them, he literally said, "Who cares? We have lots of lawyers and you don't."

So I am no longer a Ford guy and love my Silverado.

That's my experience but also my opinion -- and you know what they say about opinions. But you asked!

[EZM]

Originally Posted by 67ZL1

Accountant says we need some write offs for next year.

I wouldn't advise just running right out and adding significant expenses like a fleet vehicle, vehicle related expenses so you can spend the $ 100,000 to claim back and POCKET the $20,000 in "write offs?" You still spent $80,000 of your potential net profit and you just signed yourself up for a long term finacial expense like lease/finacing payments, insurance, vehicle related expenses ect - and your bank guy will expect his payment on time, every month, and doesn't care if you are profitable and times are good or if you are struggling as a business.

My accountant would tell me not to take on any expenses that you don't need to take on, under any circumstances, unless you need that item/truck/equipment.

He would say Just don't spend the $ 100,000 on the vehicle and maybe PAY ALL THE TAXES and enjoy the $70,000 in profits your left with.

Keep in mind write offs only reduce the net income used to calculate your income/business tax - it's not free money. It's like spending 10 bucks to get back 2 dollars.

If you need the truck(s) to do the work then get them if they will make you some money - but be very clear about what a "write off" is or does for you.

My advice anyways ...

[67ZL1]

Originally Posted by EZM

I wouldn't advise just running right out and adding significant expenses like a fleet vehicle, vehicle related expenses so you can spend the $ 100,000 to claim back and POCKET the $20,000 in "write offs?" You still spent $80,000 of your potential net profit and you just signed yourself up for a long term finacial expense like lease/finacing payments, insurance, vehicle related expenses ect - and your bank guy will expect his payment on time, every month, and doesn't care if you are profitable and times are good or if you are struggling as a business.

My accountant would tell me not to take on any expenses that you don't need to take on, under any circumstances, unless you need that item/truck/equipment.

He would say Just don't spend the $ 100,000 on the vehicle and maybe PAY ALL THE TAXES and enjoy the $70,000 in profits your left with.

Keep in mind write offs only reduce the net income used to calculate your income/business tax - it's not free money. It's like spending 10 bucks to get back 2 dollars.

If you need the truck(s) to do the work then get them if they will make you some money - but be very clear about what a "write off" is or does for you.

My advice anyways ...

Wow! First off nobody said anything about buying a 100k truck, i’ve been in business for 10+ years so ya I kinda know what is or isn’t allowed for writeoffs. My accountant doesn’t allow me to get away with anything, she is strictly by the book. And yes I know that the payments have to be made every month just like my fuel bills, vendors invoices etc. But thanks for the reminder! SMH

[EZM]

Originally Posted by 67ZL1

Wow! First off nobody said anything about buying a 100k truck, i’ve been in business for 10+ years so ya I kinda know what is or isn’t allowed for writeoffs. My accountant doesn’t allow me to get away with anything, she is strictly by the book. And yes I know that the payments have to be made every month just like my fuel bills, vendors invoices etc. But thanks for the reminder! SMH

I was just making a comment I thought would be another perspective so you can be better positioned to make a good decision for yourself. I have many hard working buddies (contractors or skilled trades guys) who I see in similar situations and I try and give them my perspective with the intent to want to see these guys do well for themselves and their families.

The $100,000 I referenced was a round figure for the purposes of illustrating a point and using round figures.

If you look at the total cost of the vehicle, and add up all the maintenance, insurance, financing charges etc.. costs, even a mid market truck is going be way up there in total expense.

Obviously if you pay cash and take the entire benefit in one tax period (for the truck cost itself) or finance it over a few years the total net/net usually works out be exactly equal to your applicable tax rate (as it lowers your income) and subsequently calculates your taxes on the balance.

Either way - you posted a comment looking for advice - I responded sincerely trying to give you advice.

When my wife asks me if these pant's make her butt look fat and she doesn't want to hear the truth (or facts) and hates what I tell her - I advise her not to ask me next time.

[Coiloil37]

I run a 2010 with the 6.7 cummins and have since new. Here’s my take on it. I’ll admit to being a cummins fan and have had great success with their B, C and QSM series engines.
My truck has had a few recalls that they replaced parts for me. For unscheduled breakdowns it lost an O2 sensor. It didn’t derate anything but I got a code and check engine light. It was under warranty and they replaced it for me.

Yea that’s it for repairs.

I know the value of good filtration so I installed extra fuel filtration prior to losing my warranty, injection pump and injectors. The factory fuel filter was a 7 micron filter when the truck came out. A few years down the track they went to a 5 micron filter. I went ahead of them and installed a water trap good for 99% of the free water and 95% of the emulsified water. It’s also a 20 micron filter. Behind that I put what used to be a 2 micron absolute Donaldson fuel filter. Now they’re rated at 3 micron absolute due to a change in the testing procedure. We get terrible diesel in this province/country and diesel can’t be to clean for your engine. It’s in your best interest to give it clean fuel.
I also run a Donaldson full flow oil filter that’s not only cheaper then the mopar/fleetguard filter but a 15 micron filter vs the fleetguards 40 micron.

When the warranty was gone I installed a tuner and removed the emissions junk to try and help that engine live. What the egr puts back into the intake is criminal. The MAP sensor was constantly plugged with soot and the ccv filter is plumed back into the intake ahead of the turbo so the turbo is stuck ingesting that oily air for its lifetime as well.
I then put a bypass oil filter system on the truck that takes it down to 2 micron absolute. Being as the engine no longer suffers from fuel dilution and soot production the oil lasts a long time and stays clean. It’s no longer black like every other diesel oil you’ve ever seen because the filter removes the soot. I don’t know how often I need to change the oil anymore because I haven’t had an oil analysis come back telling me to change the oil.

The front ends on dodges are weak and the cummins is heavy. The design of the suspension is also susceptible to death wobble when components get worn out. The factory steering is also a bit “vague”. This is a fairly easy complex problem with a fairly simple solution.

Drive the truck like you own it instead of like you stole it. It’s not a custom built jeep on remote reservoir coilovers and long arm suspension. When you do wear your front end out (I haven’t yet on mine) install EMF ball joints, tie rod ends etc. You should NEVER have to replace them again. If EMF makes any component for any vehicle you own, use them. Their components are so far ahead of their competition it’s ridiculous. Their parts are world class and Alberta built. They’re also no more expensive then the generic junk on the market. I run emf on my jeep and flog that thing mercilessly and haven’t even had to adjust anything in the three years they’ve been on there. Check their website and check them on YouTube.

For the steering just install a steering brace. It ties the frame together and runs the bottom of the steering shaft in a bearing. It’ll cost you about $250 and take about an hour to install if you have a few beers while doing it. The change is night and day and it’ll help protect the steering box when you drop a wheel into a big hole in the road at speed.

Don’t neglect the fluids in the transmission, transfer case, power steering, brake fluid, diffs, especially not your coolant. Test the coolant and change it when it’s due or your going to have some repairs.

DONT over service your air filter. Put a filter restriction gauge on the air box and don’t touch the filter until it shows enough restriction. New air filters pass 90% of the particles they’ll ever pass in the first 10% of their life. Every time you open the air box and disturb the filter your letting contaminates into your engine. The filter is supposed to be dirty. Use a restriction gauge and pay attention to it. Never change a filter based on appearance.

The bad part is the new trucks have more emissions crap I’ve never dealt with. I’ve never had anything to do with def so I’m zero help there.

Some pictures to help with the show and tell.

Clean your map sensor regularly




THE oil filter for the 6.7 cummins. $16 at finning here in red deer



Fuel filtration complete with my ugly crimps. The whole setup cost about $70 to build.



Just keep a spare filter and hose in case you plug a filter or for whatever reason need to bypass the system. The pair of fuel filters are less then $30 at kenworth.



Oil filtration



That’s as dirty as my oil ever gets.



Steering stabilizer.



I’ve had eight years with no unexpected out of pocket expenses. I’m not saying dodges aren’t lemons but mines ok. Here’s her fuel mileage. Not as good as some 5.9’s but I’ll take it.

[reddeerguy2015]

Originally Posted by Coiloil37

I run a 2010 with the 6.7 cummins and have since new. Here’s my take on it. I’ll admit to being a cummins fan and have had great success with their B, C and QSM series engines.
My truck has had a few recalls that they replaced parts for me. For unscheduled breakdowns it lost an O2 sensor. It didn’t derate anything but I got a code and check engine light. It was under warranty and they replaced it for me.

Yea that’s it for repairs.

I know the value of good filtration so I installed extra fuel filtration prior to losing my warranty, injection pump and injectors. The factory fuel filter was a 7 micron filter when the truck came out. A few years down the track they went to a 5 micron filter. I went ahead of them and installed a water trap good for 99% of the free water and 95% of the emulsified water. It’s also a 20 micron filter. Behind that I put what used to be a 2 micron absolute Donaldson fuel filter. Now they’re rated at 3 micron absolute due to a change in the testing procedure. We get terrible diesel in this province/country and diesel can’t be to clean for your engine. It’s in your best interest to give it clean fuel.
I also run a Donaldson full flow oil filter that’s not only cheaper then the mopar/fleetguard filter but a 15 micron filter vs the fleetguards 40 micron.

When the warranty was gone I installed a tuner and removed the emissions junk to try and help that engine live. What the egr puts back into the intake is criminal. The MAP sensor was constantly plugged with soot and the ccv filter is plumed back into the intake ahead of the turbo so the turbo is stuck ingesting that oily air for its lifetime as well.
I then put a bypass oil filter system on the truck that takes it down to 2 micron absolute. Being as the engine no longer suffers from fuel dilution and soot production the oil lasts a long time and stays clean. It’s no longer black like every other diesel oil you’ve ever seen because the filter removes the soot. I don’t know how often I need to change the oil anymore because I haven’t had an oil analysis come back telling me to change the oil.

The front ends on dodges are weak and the cummins is heavy. The design of the suspension is also susceptible to death wobble when components get worn out. The factory steering is also a bit “vague”. This is a fairly easy complex problem with a fairly simple solution.

Drive the truck like you own it instead of like you stole it. It’s not a custom built jeep on remote reservoir coilovers and long arm suspension. When you do wear your front end out (I haven’t yet on mine) install EMF ball joints, tie rod ends etc. You should NEVER have to replace them again. If EMF makes any component for any vehicle you own, use them. Their components are so far ahead of their competition it’s ridiculous. Their parts are world class and Alberta built. They’re also no more expensive then the generic junk on the market. I run emf on my jeep and flog that thing mercilessly and haven’t even had to adjust anything in the three years they’ve been on there. Check their website and check them on YouTube.

For the steering just install a steering brace. It ties the frame together and runs the bottom of the steering shaft in a bearing. It’ll cost you about $250 and take about an hour to install if you have a few beers while doing it. The change is night and day and it’ll help protect the steering box when you drop a wheel into a big hole in the road at speed.

Don’t neglect the fluids in the transmission, transfer case, power steering, brake fluid, diffs, especially not your coolant. Test the coolant and change it when it’s due or your going to have some repairs.

DONT over service your air filter. Put a filter restriction gauge on the air box and don’t touch the filter until it shows enough restriction. New air filters pass 90% of the particles they’ll ever pass in the first 10% of their life. Every time you open the air box and disturb the filter your letting contaminates into your engine. The filter is supposed to be dirty. Use a restriction gauge and pay attention to it. Never change a filter based on appearance.

The bad part is the new trucks have more emissions crap I’ve never dealt with. I’ve never had anything to do with def so I’m zero help there.

Some pictures to help with the show and tell.

Clean your map sensor regularly




THE oil filter for the 6.7 cummins. $16 at finning here in red deer



Fuel filtration complete with my ugly crimps. The whole setup cost about $70 to build.



Just keep a spare filter and hose in case you plug a filter or for whatever reason need to bypass the system. The pair of fuel filters are less then $30 at kenworth.



Oil filtration



That’s as dirty as my oil ever gets.



Steering stabilizer.



I’ve had eight years with no unexpected out of pocket expenses. I’m not saying dodges aren’t lemons but mines ok. Here’s her fuel mileage. Not as good as some 5.9’s but I’ll take it.

Good post.

[wind drift]

I’ve owned trucks built by all of the ‘Big Three’, but it wasn’t until I bought a Tundra that I learned the difference between them and reliable. Honestly, I think the Big Three are big because we are tolerant and weirdly brand-loyal.

[TBD]

Originally Posted by Coiloil37

I run a 2010 with the 6.7 cummins and have since new. Here’s my take on it. I’ll admit to being a cummins fan and have had great success with their B, C and QSM series engines.
My truck has had a few recalls that they replaced parts for me. For unscheduled breakdowns it lost an O2 sensor. It didn’t derate anything but I got a code and check engine light. It was under warranty and they replaced it for me.

Yea that’s it for repairs.

I know the value of good filtration so I installed extra fuel filtration prior to losing my warranty, injection pump and injectors. The factory fuel filter was a 7 micron filter when the truck came out. A few years down the track they went to a 5 micron filter. I went ahead of them and installed a water trap good for 99% of the free water and 95% of the emulsified water. It’s also a 20 micron filter. Behind that I put what used to be a 2 micron absolute Donaldson fuel filter. Now they’re rated at 3 micron absolute due to a change in the testing procedure. We get terrible diesel in this province/country and diesel can’t be to clean for your engine. It’s in your best interest to give it clean fuel.
I also run a Donaldson full flow oil filter that’s not only cheaper then the mopar/fleetguard filter but a 15 micron filter vs the fleetguards 40 micron.

When the warranty was gone I installed a tuner and removed the emissions junk to try and help that engine live. What the egr puts back into the intake is criminal. The MAP sensor was constantly plugged with soot and the ccv filter is plumed back into the intake ahead of the turbo so the turbo is stuck ingesting that oily air for its lifetime as well.
I then put a bypass oil filter system on the truck that takes it down to 2 micron absolute. Being as the engine no longer suffers from fuel dilution and soot production the oil lasts a long time and stays clean. It’s no longer black like every other diesel oil you’ve ever seen because the filter removes the soot. I don’t know how often I need to change the oil anymore because I haven’t had an oil analysis come back telling me to change the oil.

The front ends on dodges are weak and the cummins is heavy. The design of the suspension is also susceptible to death wobble when components get worn out. The factory steering is also a bit “vague”. This is a fairly easy complex problem with a fairly simple solution.

Drive the truck like you own it instead of like you stole it. It’s not a custom built jeep on remote reservoir coilovers and long arm suspension. When you do wear your front end out (I haven’t yet on mine) install EMF ball joints, tie rod ends etc. You should NEVER have to replace them again. If EMF makes any component for any vehicle you own, use them. Their components are so far ahead of their competition it’s ridiculous. Their parts are world class and Alberta built. They’re also no more expensive then the generic junk on the market. I run emf on my jeep and flog that thing mercilessly and haven’t even had to adjust anything in the three years they’ve been on there. Check their website and check them on YouTube.

For the steering just install a steering brace. It ties the frame together and runs the bottom of the steering shaft in a bearing. It’ll cost you about $250 and take about an hour to install if you have a few beers while doing it. The change is night and day and it’ll help protect the steering box when you drop a wheel into a big hole in the road at speed.

Don’t neglect the fluids in the transmission, transfer case, power steering, brake fluid, diffs, especially not your coolant. Test the coolant and change it when it’s due or your going to have some repairs.

DONT over service your air filter. Put a filter restriction gauge on the air box and don’t touch the filter until it shows enough restriction. New air filters pass 90% of the particles they’ll ever pass in the first 10% of their life. Every time you open the air box and disturb the filter your letting contaminates into your engine. The filter is supposed to be dirty. Use a restriction gauge and pay attention to it. Never change a filter based on appearance.

The bad part is the new trucks have more emissions crap I’ve never dealt with. I’ve never had anything to do with def so I’m zero help there.

Some pictures to help with the show and tell.

Clean your map sensor regularly

never thought of the the extra oil filtration ...

[Lefty-Canuck]

If anyone is interested I have a 2004 Lariat F-150 with all new timing components (work done by an AO member) and a rebuilt transmission (done by Lo-Cost). All under a year old for $5K, new fuel pump and fuel sending unit as well. It’s been parked all winter. Just needs a windshield.

LC

[Big Grey Wolf]

I Like a truck with engine that can go 1,000,000 km with out any major problems. My 2001 dodge ram is a 360,000km and just nicely warming up. At Suncor Ft Mac we had Union boys that could destroy new Fords in 6 months.

[fordtruckin]

Originally Posted by Big Grey Wolf

I Like a truck with engine that can go 1,000,000 km with out any major problems. My 2001 dodge ram is a 360,000km and just nicely warming up. At Suncor Ft Mac we had Union boys that could destroy new Fords in 6 months.

Bahahahaha I doubt very many people in Alberta keep a truck passed 200000km never mind 1000000km. I don’t care what make or model it is if it lasts to 200000km you probably got one of the good ones and if you take care of it it will keep running.