you should try to contact ARC'TERYX. they're a great canadian company, i'm sure you know of them. they have an excellent student internship program and make cold weather clothing for military application not available to the public.
every thing brain said is key. personally, i walk alot and need to stay dry or risk hypothermia. i wear long underwear,wool pants underneath SIMMS goretex breathable chest waders. instead of wading boots, i use hiking boots(one size bigger than i normally wear)danner pronghorns. the breathable waders are great because i can hike all day,not sweat and stay dry at any temp(+5 to -35)
uptop, layers, wool shirt, breathable gortex SIMMS rainjacket/shell for an outer layer.
the biggest problem with most jackets for me, is the zippers. they all inevitable fail.
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