Skinning-stretching-tanning on a coyote hide questions

[220 Swift]

So i shot a coyote the other day, I ususally give my pelts to the local guy whose family can use the extra cash, and to see them not go to waste. THis one i hung him later that day and skinned him, more to see the bullet fragmentation on the 204 Vmax.

Then i thought i should throw him on the adjustable wood stretcher, to not let the hide go to waste. Yes, i know fleshing is done at this time.

Skinning and taxidermy things are like the oil patch, there are different terminoligies that describe the same thing, leaving the unexperienced in the dark and this is my chance to ask and hopefully it will answer alot of questions for me, and rather than ask 1 question here and there i thought i would throw them alll together, and some other guys that are wondering the same thing, may see value. My next goal is to have a sticky on this board LOL The direct questions i have asked are underlined for esy reference. If you see any thing else to add please do so if it is relavent.

What is this process called with a pelt on the stretcher? Just "drying" the pelt?

I have read different readings on the net,Should the tail be split with a guthook knife, or is this not necessary? If it is, is it only required for tanning, not "drying"?

Ear cartilage, again mixed reviews on this, flesh as much as possible and skin as high as you can, or split. The best is?

Salting the pelt, should this be done for drying, storing in the freezer or not at all? I have heard mixed reviews on this one too,, as one guy i know said to not salt at all, for freezer storage. this to me makes kind of makes sense, as in the freezer at -23C, salt lowers the freezing point of water, which delays the freezing, and keeps the pelt warm, which of course allows the bacteria to survive longer, giving the hair more chance to slip. But i do know salt removes moisture, and acts as a preservative. So salt or no salt?

I skinned a coyote years ago with my grandfather, after fleshing it we put it on a solid (non adjustable board, which didnt let the air dry the fur, after about 4 days(if i remember,)he told me to flip the hide and let the fur be out. i did this and this cased hide turned out good. I am guessing that this flipping technique is not required with the adjustable stretcher now, is this correct? Other than the adjustable factor of this stretcher i made is it better for that reason?

How long does a "dried" case skinned fur last for, will it rot, or be ate by bugs if not tanned and boraxed? If shelf life is limited, how long would it be and what is required, tanning?


Will just Boraxing keep the pelt in a dried state and bug free if it was just hung on the wall like that?

So with this dried cased pelt, to tan it at a later date, what is required to do that, resoak it and throw it in the tanning solution?

So living in the "sticks" doesnt give me a lot of options on buying a tanning kit from a store. I see on the net there are different home brews for tanning a hide with brain, and house hold chemicals, or at least easy to get chemicals, from a grocery store, or Walmart. Does any one know these or do they even work?


Thanks in advance, i know there are more questions too, which of course will be asked at a later date.

[KegRiver]

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

So i shot a coyote the other day, I usually give my pelts to the local guy whose family can use the extra cash, and to see them not go to waste. This one I hung him later that day and skinned him, more to see the bullet fragmentation on the 204 Vmax.

Then I thought I should throw him on the adjustable wood stretcher, to not let the hide go to waste. Yes, I know fleshing is done at this time.

Skinning and taxidermy things are like the oil patch, there are different terminologies that describe the same thing, leaving the inexperienced in the dark and this is my chance to ask and hopefully it will answer allot of questions for me, and rather than ask 1 question here and there I thought I would throw them all together, and some other guys that are wondering the same thing, may see value. My next goal is to have a sticky on this board LOL The direct questions I have asked are underlined for easy reference. If you see any thing else to add please do so if it is relevant.

A lot of what you are asking for is better taught, hands on, but I'll see what I can do for you.
First, a lot depends on what you intend to do with your pelt. (Coyote hide)

There are different requirements and different procedures for a hide that will be sold as a dried pelt, then one that will be used for taxidermy and again for one that will be tanned for immediate use or display.

I will deal mostly with pelts intended for sale as dried pelts as that is what I have the most experience with.

A word here about fleshing a Coyote pelt. A Coyote is one of the harder pelts to flesh because the hide is thin and easily torn. Relative to other pelts.

For drying for sale as raw fur, it is only necessary to remove the larger patches of flesh and fat. You do not need to get it all.
Always work from the head toward the tail, with the grain of the fur.
A fleshing bone or dull knife, or even a old kitchen spoon is best for this purpose, On Coyote hides. Other hides require a more aggressive approach.

It is best to wipe off any oils that appear during drying. Paper towels work well for this.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

What is this process called with a pelt on the stretcher? Just "drying" the pelt?

Drying is the more common term. Some refer to it as curing the pelt.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

I have read different readings on the net,Should the tail be split with a guthook knife, or is this not necessary? If it is, is it only required for tanning, not "drying"?

The tail should be split for drying or for immediate tanning. If the pelt is going to a taxidermist the tail may be left unsplit and the pelt frozen.

The reason the tail is split is to allow proper drying. If you don't split the tail it is very likely that portions of it will not dry properly which will lead to spoilage and hair loss, reducing the value and appearance of the pelt.

As far as using a guthook, I have never used one. I find that my regular skinning knife is sufficient, however, a guthook may be easier for a novice to use for this task.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

Ear cartilage, again mixed reviews on this, flesh as much as possible and skin as high as you can, or split. The best is?

Again, the intended purpose has a large bearing on what you do with the ears. For a dried pelt, to be sold as raw fur, you would cut off as much cartilage as you can, easily. No need for extensive fleshing here, just remove any larger pieces of flesh or fat.

As with splitting the tail, the goal here is to prevent spoilage.

For immediate tanning for a throw or rug, leave as much cartilage as you can and remove as much flesh and fat as you can. Here you want the cartilage to keep the ears erect as much as possible, while reducing the possibility of spoilage.

For taxidermy, leave as much cartilage as you can and remove only the larger pieces of flesh and fat.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

Salting the pelt, should this be done for drying, storing in the freezer or not at all? I have heard mixed reviews on this one too,, as one guy i know said to not salt at all, for freezer storage. this to me makes kind of makes sense, as in the freezer at -23C, salt lowers the freezing point of water, which delays the freezing, and keeps the pelt warm, which of course allows the bacteria to survive longer, giving the hair more chance to slip. But i do know salt removes moisture, and acts as a preservative. So salt or no salt?

Salting is done to extend the storage time for a pelt that will be tanned locally or stored for later taxidermy.

Do not salt a hide that will be sold as raw fur. Raw fur is used mostly in the garment industry and apparently the garment industry tanning process has problems with salted hides.

If the pelt is to be frozen until processed salt should be unnecessary and could complicate the tanning process. Best avoid using salt on hides that will be frozen.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

I skinned a coyote years ago with my grandfather, after fleshing it we put it on a solid (non adjustable board, which didn't let the air dry the fur, after about 4 days(if i remember,)he told me to flip the hide and let the fur be out. i did this and this cased hide turned out good. I am guessing that this flipping technique is not required with the adjustable stretcher now, is this correct? Other than the adjustable factor of this stretcher i made is it better for that reason?

A split stretcher (adjustable) is always better then a single board for larger pelts. Fox or larger.
And as you suspected, the main reason is better drying.

About flipping (also called turning) the hide.
Most larger animal pelts, Fisher, Fox, Coyote, and Wolf are sold fur side out.

For the fastest drying, these pelts should be first stretched flesh side out and allowed to dry until the flesh side feels dry to the touch. About 12 to 24 hours. The pelt is then removed from the stretcher and turned fur side out before placing it back on the stretcher.
It would then be allowed to dry for another 24 to 48 hours, until it crackles when flexed. It is then ready for market.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

How long does a "dried" case skinned fur last for, will it rot, or be ate by bugs if not tanned and boraxed? If shelf life is limited, how long would it be and what is required, tanning?

The pelt will keep well for about six months, if kept dry. After about six months a slight yellowing will be noticeable and fur buyers will discount such pelts. However it will take 2 to 4 years for serious pelt deterioration to occur.

The hide will not rot so long as it is kept dry, however, after a few years the fur will loosen and fall out. If the hide is not tanned before that occurs.

Hair slippage can become a problem in as little as 12 months. But total loss should take several years.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

Will just Boraxing keep the pelt in a dried state and bug free if it was just hung on the wall like that?

I have never tried it but it is my understanding that yes, Borax will preserve the pelt over a much longer term. However, I was told that tanners hate working with a hide that has been treated with Borax.
I'm not sure why.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

So with this dried cased pelt, to tan it at a later date, what is required to do that, resoak it and throw it in the tanning solution?

Yes. LOL nothing else to say, that's all there is to it.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

So living in the "sticks" doesnt give me a lot of options on buying a tanning kit from a store. I see on the net there are different home brews for tanning a hide with brain, and house hold chemicals, or at least easy to get chemicals, from a grocery store, or Walmart. Does any one know these or do they even work?


Thanks in advance, i know there are more questions too, which of course will be asked at a later date.

They work, but I prefer to use a product called,





I get mine via mail order.

[220 Swift]

Thanks for the reply Keg, its pretty much what i was looking for. This is something that i always enjoyed to do, and i have done a deer cape when i was 17ish too, with the help of my day and with mywork life style on a rollercoaster is something that i havent done in 17 years. i have a few more questions on your replies and i hope these will be the last.


A word here about fleshing a Coyote pelt. A Coyote is one of the harder pelts to flesh because the hide is thin and easily torn. Relative to other pelts.For drying for sale as raw fur, it is only necessary to remove the larger patches of flesh and fat. You do not need to get it all.
How much fleshing is acceptable for pelts to be dryed and sold? Dime size and thickness? When i skinned the coyote 20 years ago with my grandfather, we pulled every piece off, which when i think of it now, he is a perfectionist, so none was allowed to stay on the coyote for sale, but in reality as you are saying some can be left.
I recall from tanning the cape, it was acceptable at 0% of meat or fat to be left on. If you had a picture even on how much you leave on the coyote hide that would be excellent.



Salting is done to extend the storage time for a pelt that will be tanned locally or stored for later taxidermy.
Ok so with the salt should it be left flat, rolled up with the hide touching hide, or fur touching fur. Where should this be stored, in the freezer, or on a shelf in a garage?


If the pelt is to be frozen until processed salt should be unnecessary and could complicate the tanning process. Best avoid using salt on hides that will be frozen.



New question, what is the ideal temp to dry a stretched pelt at, in a cool dry place, is what i did before, how cold is too cold and how warm is too warm.

Another new question, can a dryed pelt be overdried if left on the adjustable stretcher- hide side out-for longer than you recommended, of 24 hours? if so, wet it down?

The hide will not rot so long as it is kept dry, however, after a few years the fur will loosen and fall out. If the hide is not tanned before that occurs.
I know you may not have this answer but do you think that this is bugs that cause this and would Borax work to elimintate this if one tried it?



I have never tried it but it is my understanding that yes, Borax will preserve the pelt over a much longer term. However, I was told that tanners hate working with a hide that has been treated with Borax.
I'm not sure why.
i think Borax is a detergent, and would help "wash" away tanning solution, i am just guessing on that, though.


Thanks again for your reply. With the answers like these i may get into the skinning more.

[220 Swift]

if you think this is alot of questions, you should see when i start a new job.

thankfully that i have only had 4 employers in my career, but no rock goes unturned.

[Full Curl]

Glad you asked these questions! I shot one a few days ago and had all of these questions to ask too!
When I skinned mine, I "tubed" it and stopped skinning above the front and rear elbows. My wife wants to hang the pelt in our house so I didn't know where to go from here. I froze the pelt after skinning. So if I'm reading this right, I could thaw it then flesh it and stretch/ dry it. Then perhaps use some of that stuff in the orange bottle, and have a nice pelt to hang in the house?

[wwbirds]

You have done an incredible job of explaining the process and I think this should be a Sticky.
Granular borax is a pain (20 mule team from the grocery store) but powdered borax has been used to treat all my coyotes for the last 20 years. I flesh to bare skin with no fat or connecting tissue. the saddle along the shoulders and back (vellum)must be removed and when dry a coyote as you say is "crinkly" for lack of a better term so like paper thin and light.

Good read my friend you did good!

[KegRiver]

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

A word here about fleshing a Coyote pelt. A Coyote is one of the harder pelts to flesh because the hide is thin and easily torn. Relative to other pelts.For drying for sale as raw fur, it is only necessary to remove the larger patches of flesh and fat. You do not need to get it all.

How much fleshing is acceptable for pelts to be dryed and sold? Dime size and thickness?

That depends. The goal is to prevent spoilage. The cleaner you get a pelt, the better it looks and this could effect value.
On the other hand, if you try removing too much and tear the hide or expose the hair roots, you will degrade the pelt a lot more then by leaving a bit of flesh.
This is why it is up to the individual what you deem acceptable. So long as you remove enough to prevent spoilage, your pelt will be salable.

Be more concerned about fat then flesh. The oils in the fat do more to spoil a pelt then any flesh will, don't worry about the fibrous material in the fat, just try to get as much oily material as you can. Then towel off any remaining oil.

As far as the flesh is concerned, remember, Beef Jerky keeps rather well.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

Salting is done to extend the storage time for a pelt that will be tanned locally or stored for later taxidermy.
Ok so with the salt should it be left flat, rolled up with the hide touching hide, or fur touching fur. Where should this be stored, in the freezer, or on a shelf in a garage?

Always store hide on hide. You don't want salt on the fur if you can avoid it. Rolled or flat is up to you.
The hide can be dried and stored in a cool dry place or it can be frozen, without having to dry it.

If the pelt is to be frozen until processed salt should be unnecessary and could complicate the tanning process. Best avoid using salt on hides that will be frozen.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

When i skinned the coyote 20 years ago with my grandfather, we pulled every piece off, which when i think of it now, he is a perfectionist, so none was allowed to stay on the coyote for sale, but in reality as you are saying some can be left.
I recall from tanning the cape, it was acceptable at 0% of meat or fat to be left on. If you had a picture even on how much you leave on the coyote hide that would be excellent.

The old school way was to do ones best to obtain a pelt free of ALL FLESH and FAT. In the process a lot of leather was removed, hair roots were exposed leading to hair loss and sometimes harsh chemicals were employed which interacted with the tanning chemicals used later, causing all sorts of issues.

Furriers found it was better to deal with a bit of flesh left on the hide rather then deal with the consequences of a thinned hide or unknown chemicals.

Sorry, I have no photos of my hide preparation methods.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

New question, what is the ideal temp to dry a stretched pelt at, in a cool dry place, is what i did before, how cold is too cold and how warm is too warm.

I'm not sure there is an ideal temperature. The cooler the better for sure.
I have stored hides successfully for a few months at room temperature.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

Another new question, can a dryed pelt be overdried if left on the adjustable stretcher- hide side out-for longer than you recommended, of 24 hours? if so, wet it down?

Yes. If the hide dries too much it will become nearly impossible to turn without tearing it.

Yes, moisten with a wet cloth until supple enough to turn safely.

Perhaps it would help if you understood the reason for two stage drying, IE drying flesh side out first.

If you try to dry the hide fur side out only, you will encounter two problems.
#1 is spoilage. With damp flesh against wood the leather can not dry fast enough to prevent spoilage.
#2 The damp flesh will adhere to the board making removal impossible or nearly impossible.

So what you want is to dry the flesh side as much as possible, while retaining the ability to turn the hide for final drying.

No easy formulas or time tables here. It's all a matter of feel and experience. But on the bright side, you have a fairly wide window of time between not dry enough and too dry. Perhaps as much as a few hours.

When the hide feels dry to the touch, it should be safe to turn it.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

The hide will not rot so long as it is kept dry, however, after a few years the fur will loosen and fall out. If the hide is not tanned before that occurs.
I know you may not have this answer but do you think that this is bugs that cause this and would Borax work to elimintate this if one tried it?

Bugs, as in bacteria, Yes. And I believe that borax would eliminate or at least greatly reduce this. Larger pests may be an issue as well, right up to and including mice and Squirrels. I expect that Borax would deter them as well.
But remember, Borax tans the hide. But a Borax tan may not be suitable for the intended end purpose. And it could prevent proper tanning for that intended purpose.
If all you want is a wall hanging, then Borax may be the way to go.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

I have never tried it but it is my understanding that yes, Borax will preserve the pelt over a much longer term. However, I was told that tanners hate working with a hide that has been treated with Borax.
I'm not sure why.
i think Borax is a detergent, and would help "wash" away tanning solution, i am just guessing on that, though.

I'm sure Borax does work as a detergent in some ways, but strictly speaking it is closer to a caustic agent then a detergent.
I do know that it is an ingredient in many detergents.

And I do know that it tans by breaking down certain proteins in the hide.
What I don't know is how it interacts with the more common tanning agents such as Tannic Acid.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

Thanks again for your reply. With the answers like these i may get into the skinning more.

I hope I have been of some help. However, hide preparation is a complicated matter in a lot of ways, and as such it is best taught by demonstration and hands on tutoring. Not that one can not learn the techniques by reading and practicing. It's certainly possible, but it is the harder way to go.

Best of luck to you. May your fur shack be full and your belly as well.

[KegRiver]

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

if you think this is alot of questions, you should see when i start a new job.

thankfully that i have only had 4 employers in my career, but no rock goes unturned.

LOL. I don't mind questions. Questions lead to answers!

There have been many times in my life I would have loved to have someone I could ask questions of. Trial and error is not a good way to learn.

[KegRiver]

Originally Posted by wwbirds

You have done an incredible job of explaining the process and I think this should be a Sticky.
Granular borax is a pain (20 mule team from the grocery store) but powdered borax has been used to treat all my coyotes for the last 20 years. I flesh to bare skin with no fat or connecting tissue. the saddle along the shoulders and back (vellum)must be removed and when dry a coyote as you say is "crinkly" for lack of a better term so like paper thin and light.

Good read my friend you did good!

Thanks.

I would rather demonstrate, but that is not always possible.

I would like to point out that more often then not, there is no right or wrong way of doing things. Some methods work better then others.

My way works, it will get a person by, but never be afraid to try new ways.

[Bushmaster]

Get a proper stretcher to dry it on....leave it skin side out until its almost dry...not stiff, etc. and then turn it to fur side out and make sure its in the position you want because once it dries you can't change it. Make sure there is no meat or fat left on the ear butts and pin the ears to the position you want.

I used to run mine thru the washing machine and put Downy in the rinse cycle and they smelled real purty !! Easy for me to do as I don't have a wife ....
I also ran them thru the dryer, it gets the fur to fluff up like nothing else....you can do this with a hair dryer but it takes a long time.

Borax rubbed in while on the board, skin side out will help preserve it....I have a fox hide on my wall thats at least 15 years old.

[Bushmaster]

Sorry to butt in Keg....you were doing a lot of typing while I was picking out this little bit.

[220 Swift]

Always store hide on hide. You don't want salt on the fur if you can avoid it. Rolled or flat is up to you.

this is all when its UNsalted , correct. when you say hide on hide, this is with it salted
The hide can be dried and stored in a cool dry place or it can be frozen, without having to dry it.

this is unsalted as well, i am guessing

So in reality. There is no need to salt a pelt, or cape, as it can either be frozen, or dried, unsalted. The deep freeze or stretcher will act as the preserver.

Salt must be part of old school ways then prior to electricity? But with a stretcher i still dont know why one would salt it.

Thanks for all your help again.

[220 Swift]

Originally Posted by wwbirds

You have done an incredible job of explaining the process and I think this should be a Sticky.
Granular borax is a pain (20 mule team from the grocery store) but powdered borax has been used to treat all my coyotes for the last 20 years. I flesh to bare skin with no fat or connecting tissue. the saddle along the shoulders and back (vellum)must be removed and when dry a coyote as you say is "crinkly" for lack of a better term so like paper thin and light.

Good read my friend you did good!

that is my goal for the sticky LOL. Damn i thought i was set with Mule borax. [i have 3 boxes of that too, as it acts as a good ant killer (mix it with sugar) they come for the sugar and it eats their legs off, similar to calling coyotes ]

Where do you get the powerded borax from, and when you say that you have treated all your coyotes for the past 20years, do you still have them, or some of them, or are they all gone?

[wwbirds]

Stil have maybe 20-30 not sent away to auction last year but I usually send to Winnipeg. Powdered borax is available from taxidermy supply houses. think I got my last bag at AAA in N E Calgary. if the skins are clean a little goes a long way. I use a fleshing knife (like a dull scraper) slides and scrapes well and unusual unless I screw up for it to cut but I also built a proper fleshing beam many years ago.
I save fine sawdust from bandsaws, table saw and others to sprinkle on hides and it helps fleshing tool to 'flesh' clean and absord excess oils before they run down to tail area and grease burn the exposed fur. Lots of sawdust on that bottom edge helps a lot.
Rob

[KegRiver]

Originally Posted by Bushmaster

Sorry to butt in Keg....you were doing a lot of typing while I was picking out this little bit.

Glad to have others contribute. Type away!

[KegRiver]

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

Always store hide on hide. You don't want salt on the fur if you can avoid it. Rolled or flat is up to you.

this is all when its UNsalted , correct. when you say hide on hide, this is with it salted
The hide can be dried and stored in a cool dry place or it can be frozen, without having to dry it.

this is unsalted as well, i am guessing

So in reality. There is no need to salt a pelt, or cape, as it can either be frozen, or dried, unsalted. The deep freeze or stretcher will act as the preserver.

Salt must be part of old school ways then prior to electricity? But with a stretcher i still dont know why one would salt it.

Thanks for all your help again.

Hide on hide applies to both, salted or unsalted. Both oils and salt will singe the hair. Singeing is defined as causing the ends of the hair to curl.
Undesirable to most applications.

Not necessarily. Salting has it's place. For instance, when neither drying nor freezing is desirable, or possible.

For instance, if one takes an animal while on a several day long hunt, and can not return to civilization quickly.
Or where one will have a hide tanned or used in taxidermy but not immediately and not a long time in the future.
In other words, when freezing nore drying would be desirable.

Also, large heavy hides do not dry fast enough to prevent spoilage in some cases so salting may be beneficial when working with such hides.
Hides such a Moose, Bear and Bison would be in this class. Coyote would not.


And you are correct, if you are putting it on a stretcher, presumably you are drying it and therefor there would be no advantage to salting the hide.

[220 Swift]

Originally Posted by wwbirds

Stil have maybe 20-30 not sent away to auction last year but I usually send to Winnipeg. Powdered borax is available from taxidermy supply houses. think I got my last bag at AAA in N E Calgary. if the skins are clean a little goes a long way. I use a fleshing knife (like a dull scraper) slides and scrapes well and unusual unless I screw up for it to cut but I also built a proper fleshing beam many years ago.
I save fine sawdust from bandsaws, table saw and others to sprinkle on hides and it helps fleshing tool to 'flesh' clean and absord excess oils before they run down to tail area and grease burn the exposed fur. Lots of sawdust on that bottom edge helps a lot.
Rob

Thanks for the reply Rob, so you do apply powdered Borax to the hide, flesh side i presume, or both sides, on each one that you sell, and have done so for the past 20 years. I am guessing that you sprinkle and rub the powder in, is this correct?
Do the buyers know that its on the pelts, if so does it affect prices?

Have you saved any of these Borax treated pelts over the years, bug free?

THanks for the sawdust tip. IF you answer these questions i think i am out questions.

Have a good day.

[Scott h]

Very interesting thread guys. I haven't skinned out anything to keep it's fur for thirty years but you are sure bringing back memories. Lot's of knowledge and experience out there. I'll butt out now and let others who know what they're talking about type.

[wwbirds]

only apply to flesh side before turning fur out for final drying.
never an issue with fur buyers as I got a certificate many years ago that I had the highest priced lots in sale at $105. US for a bunch pales (whites) I sent down.
Borax is basically bleach so I can see substantial amounts affecting skin but we are talking a fine application to areas that need curing (cartelege, tail, fatty areas etc.) i pour on, rub in and surplus falls off back in bucket under hide.
I have several flat skins that were cured 20 years ago and are stil fine.

[ishootbambi]

i gotta bump this up for a question. i have the orange bottle of tanning formula, and am scraping a couple hides a obtained back in january. i froze them flesh in and am ready to put salt on them. now, thats what it says on the bottle....salt for a day, scrape again and resalt another day. i want to hang these furs on a post in the basement, not sell them, so do i salt or no?

[wwbirds]

Dale are the skin sides quite clean and free of grease, flesh ,fat and connecting tissue. Vellum along the back looks like thin muscle.
Can't advise you on salt as never used it but heard many years ago it attracts moisture (humidity) from air. I have used borax but not sure how that would affect your tanning solution.
rob

[ishootbambi]

yes i fleshed them pretty clean/ well...i have one fleshed, the others will be done soon. the orange bottle of tanning solution says salt it for a day, then scrape it again and salt for another day before going into the tanning solution steps. kegs post says no salt required though, so im unsure if i need to?

[wwbirds]

I agree with Keg that salt is only required in remote locations and for heavy hides. You should be fine with a coyote.

[KegRiver]

Salt preserves the hide while the tanning solution does it's thing.

With lighter hides like Coyote and beaver I have successfully tanned with the formula you are suing, without salt.

On heavier hides like Deer and Bear I would use at least one application of salt.
On Moose I would use two as directed.

And I would take the weather into consideration as well.

Hide will deteriorate fast in hot humid weather so I would use salt even on the lighter hides in such weather.

Another thing to consider. Salt also has a tendency to shrink and thicken a hide. This will in turn make the fur appear more dense. All of which could make a hide more attractive.

Bottom line, you can get away from using salt, at least to some degree, but it might be better to go ahead and use it. It will not hurt the hide, but avoid getting it on the hair or fur, it can cause hair or fur to curl.

One last thing. The natives used to let their hides partially spoil in order to make removing hair for leather production, easier. So some spoiling will not hurt the leather, but even mild spoilage will cause some or all of the heir to loosen or even fall out. The primary reason for salt in the tanning process is to prevent this.

Hope that answers your question.

[ishootbambi]

ok thanks guys. i have a red fox, a badger and a coyote that i want to just preserve to hang on the wall. sounds like i can skip the salting step. in this weather, ill be keeping the hides in the fridge while the tanning solution is doing its thing. thanks for the advice.