As that is now a generally static structure, I'd tear off whatever garbage factory trailer roof is on it now and put on something more like a residential one.
Don't just paste it over, as there will be no end to problems.
Commercial travel trailer roofs are designed for relative lightness, and to be cheap and quick as possible to assemble, and to reduce any turbulence from side winds as you drive down the highway. They use diaphragm stiffness to give rigidity to the whole structure with minimal framing. The weather envelope material is designed to last one season, to have no leaks for a few months after you drive it off the dealer's lot.
Doing it right means using materials and techniques more common with small house construction. Not just trying to build in the disadvantages of some quick/cheap build factory trailer roof.
After cutting off the rotten 45-year old roof, I'd first stabilize the tops of the walls with 2x4 plates, maybe adding some vertical wall studs for strength because whatever trailer frame is there was never designed to hold a lot of weight. Then check to see if the side diaphragms can resist wall stacking front-to-back or left-to-right. If those look dodgy, put in a couple of triangle stringers between the studs. ( If you want, maybe even stuff in some more insulation between the studs and cover that over with vapour barrier and 1/4" fir plywood for diaphragm strength. )
Then I'd make some shallow trusses using 2x2's and 1/4" plywood plates, and glue/screw those onto the wall plates. Sheath the top in 1/4" fir, and use residential steel roofing on top of it. I'd just use minimal overhang. Fill the truss space with fiberglas insulation then vapor barrier, and screw 1/4" fir underneath. Put in some risers on the gable ends, sheath, & insulate.
No more leaks, no more tar, and you'll use 80% less wood or propane to heat it.
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