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09-22-2018, 04:17 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,607
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Check your front sling swivel stud. I believe it's threaded into the aluminum bedding block and keeps the block tight in the stock.
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Some days you're a bullet; some days you're a gopher.
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09-22-2018, 08:09 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikergolf
snip
I pulled the action out today, the screw that squeezes the recoil lug was not near as tight as the other screws and the front action screw was almost welded in place, damaged the screw getting it out. No oil or anything else between the aluminum rail and action. Have another action screw on order, will post again when it comes in and is mounted.
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"the screw that squeezes the recoil lug", meaning is unclear to me.
Is this the 'front action screw'?
If you mean the barrel nut is not tight, that could easily be your problem,
and I strongly suggest head-space be checked by a qualified person before firing again.
IMHE, Savage action screws are very poor quality, the heads are soft, & the hex fit is sloppy and easily stripped, especially with poor quality, soft Allen type hex wrenches.
I am currently replacing several with better quality hex socket cap screws, but would prefer Torx head if I can find any suitable.
IMHO, all threaded connections should be lubricated with anti-seize or LocTite.
Good Luck, YMMV.
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09-22-2018, 08:27 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwert
"the screw that squeezes the recoil lug", meaning is unclear to me.
Is this the 'front action screw'?
If you mean the barrel nut is not tight, that could easily be your problem,
and I strongly suggest head-space be checked by a qualified person before firing again.
IMHE, Savage action screws are very poor quality, the heads are soft, & the hex fit is sloppy and easily stripped, especially with poor quality, soft Allen type hex wrenches.
I am currently replacing several with better quality hex socket cap screws, but would prefer Torx head if I can find any suitable.
IMHO, all threaded connections should be lubricated with anti-seize or LocTite.
Good Luck, YMMV.
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No not the front action screw. The Accustock has in effect three action screws, front, rear, and a screw that wedges the recoil lug.
https://www.americanrifleman.org/Web...eaccustock.pdf
__________________
“One of the sad signs of our times is that we have demonized those who produce, subsidized those who refuse to produce, and canonized those who complain.”
Thomas Sowell
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09-22-2018, 12:06 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,443
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Aluminum bedding blocks
Quote:
Originally Posted by pikergolf
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Thanks for posting the link to the article.
IMHE when accuracy suddenly deteriorates significantly, it is usually a mechanical issue, but careful bore cleaning is never wasted effort.
At least some Savage Accustocks use a plain milled slot in the bedding block, and not the ‘wedge system’ reported in the article, and were manufactured with standard top right bolt release/cocking indicator, and smooth barrel nut.
The 6061 under the lug slot is only 1/8” thick, but is longitudinally stiffened by the outside walls of the bedding block that also form the mounting surface providing lateral alignment to the tube type receiver. As the action screws are tightened, these side walls are intended to flex outward and maintain tension while the receiver bottom is secured in solid contact with the raised blocks that act as ‘pillars’. Witness/wear marks on the top of the side walls and ‘pillar’ section can confirm solid engagement and positioning.
HS Precision stocks use a solid bedding block with a shape and function similar to a properly bedded action. Some add a thin ‘skim bedding’ of epoxy for improved ‘fit’.
I suggest very careful inspection of the aluminum bedding block. 6061 is not as hard or strong as 7075, and I suspect an over-tightened wedge system could easily combine with recoil, to generate enough force to crack or distort the 6061 bedding block or side walls in the area of the receiver front ring and the barrel lug. I suspect any crack would be visible (to well trained young eyes), but dye penetrant or other NDT would be better. Distortion of the side walls may be assessed by measuring with the ID jaws of a common caliper.
Improperly aligned mounts or rings will place stress on scope tubes, which can cause poor performance.
I prefer carefully leveled & epoxy bedded 20moa P-rails, with screws properly torqued and secured with purple (NOT blue) Loctite, AFTER the bedding epoxy has fully hardened and cured..
I have other problems with Savage parts and especially service, but all my Savage rifles shoot VERY well.
Good Luck, YMMV.
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09-22-2018, 12:07 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwert
Thanks for posting the link to the article.
IMHE when accuracy suddenly deteriorates significantly, it is usually a mechanical issue, but careful bore cleaning is never wasted effort.
At least some Savage Accustocks use a plain milled slot in the bedding block, and not the ‘wedge system’ reported in the article, and were manufactured with standard top right bolt release/cocking indicator, and smooth barrel nut.
The 6061 under the lug slot is only 1/8” thick, but is longitudinally stiffened by the outside walls of the bedding block that also form the mounting surface providing lateral alignment to the tube type receiver. As the action screws are tightened, these side walls are intended to flex outward and maintain tension while the receiver bottom is secured in solid contact with the raised blocks that act as ‘pillars’. Witness/wear marks on the top of the side walls and ‘pillar’ section can confirm solid engagement and positioning.
HS Precision stocks use a solid bedding block with a shape and function similar to a properly bedded action. Some add a thin ‘skim bedding’ of epoxy for improved ‘fit’.
I suggest very careful inspection of the aluminum bedding block. 6061 is not as hard or strong as 7075, and I suspect an over-tightened wedge system could easily combine with recoil, to generate enough force to crack or distort the 6061 bedding block or side walls in the area of the receiver front ring and the barrel lug. I suspect any crack would be visible (to well trained young eyes), but dye penetrant or other NDT would be better. Distortion of the side walls may be assessed by measuring with the ID jaws of a common caliper.
Improperly aligned mounts or rings will place stress on scope tubes, which can cause poor performance.
I prefer carefully leveled & epoxy bedded 20moa P-rails, with screws properly torqued and secured with purple (NOT blue) Loctite, AFTER the bedding epoxy has fully hardened and cured..
I have other problems with Savage parts and especially service, but all my Savage rifles shoot VERY well.
Good Luck, YMMV.
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Thanks for that, will look into it.
__________________
“One of the sad signs of our times is that we have demonized those who produce, subsidized those who refuse to produce, and canonized those who complain.”
Thomas Sowell
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10-19-2018, 12:58 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,425
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So, update. Got my new action screws, installed action in stock as per Savage instructions, no improvement. Took gun home, took apart and checked the bedding block for cracks, nothing. Removed scope and checked all the mounting screws again, all tight. Checked the crown both visually and with Q-tip, nothing. Bought high end factory ammo, and went to range again. 5 inch group at fifty yards. I am at my wits end, now what? Try a third scope?
__________________
“One of the sad signs of our times is that we have demonized those who produce, subsidized those who refuse to produce, and canonized those who complain.”
Thomas Sowell
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10-19-2018, 01:10 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Crowsnest Pass
Posts: 2,408
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Scope
You said you checked your mount screws, and they are tight. However some base screw holes are blind holes, if your base screw is a thread or 2 too long, they will bottom out, and be tight to the feel, but not holding your base secure.
Thus the suggestion to put a small dab of epoxy under each base, too take up any slack. If the bases were not secure , it could be the root of your problem.
Pulled a lot of hair out before I finally caught on to this.
May or may not be your problem. Just a suggestion. Also if it’s a savage make sure the barrell nut has not come loose.
Hope you figure it out.
Spurly
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