My bolt wont close!!!!!!!!!! - Page 2

elkhunter11 · #31 04-24-2011, 09:53 AM

Quote:

But just before you do take it back.... Do as others suggested, pull the scope mounts completely, and try to cycle in an empty virgin brass (un-sized).....see if it will go in. If it does it is likely related to the screw issue if it doesn't.....its a lemon gun and you need to get it replaced. Don't let the store tell you they will send it away to have it fixed blah blah...replace it!

You don't need to remove the bases to check if it is a screw issue. If the bolt closes on an empty chamber, it isn't a screw issue.

double gun · #32 04-24-2011, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rapalaman

yes it will not close with virgin brass or full length resized brass

Greg,
As suggested loosen or even remove the front action screw, and the rear front base screw. Both of these run into the locking lug recess, and will cause problems if too long.

Lefty-Canuck · #33 04-24-2011, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

You don't need to remove the bases to check if it is a screw issue. If the bolt closes on an empty chamber, it isn't a screw issue.

This could be true....but if he has to return the rifle he will need to remove the bases anyways

Lefty

double gun · #34 04-24-2011, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

... If the bolt closes on an empty chamber, it isn't a screw issue.

Not always the case.

LongBomber · #35 04-24-2011, 10:08 AM

Have you tried cleaning the chamber? I don't even fire a new rifle without a very good cleaning, I have seen tiny pieces of plastic stuck in the bore and chamber, in the bolt recesses as well as some serious gunk in the barrel of a "new" rifle right off the shelf.

Pull out your bolt an have a look at the bolt face. Can you take a piece of brass and fit it to the bolt face? You should be able to slip the rim of a case behind the extractor and push in the plunger.

FrostyinHell · #36 04-24-2011, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by catnthehat

No, the hole for the front screw goes into the bolt lug area of the action.
When the bolt gets turned the lug hits the screw.
Cat

Cat you are absolutely right. I had to jump in when I saw Chuck jumping you like Father Badtouch on an alter boy.

I have been working on firearms for quite some time (in the military and civilian) and see this a lot actually. I see it most with Savage and remington rifles (the ones I work on most) and with everything from leupold mounts to custom stuff from Farrell. I just had it happen to me with a new Savage FCSS and Farrell mounts, the screws were 1/16" too long and stopped the bolt from closing. This would be a good place to start if you still haven't figured it out. Rifles are fully checked including pressure checked prior to leaving the factory so the bolt obviously was able to close then.

Lefty-Canuck · #37 04-24-2011, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrostyinHell

Cat you are absolutely right. I had to jump in when I saw Chuck jumping you like Father Badtouch on an alter boy.

^^^^^
LMAO.....1 st nominee for quote of the day right there.

Lefty

catnthehat · #38 04-24-2011, 10:37 AM

I think what Chuck was all fire up about was the "front screw-back screw" thing, instead of the "rear screw of the front base" being described?
Suffice it top say of a screw is protruding onto the bolt it will not open/close, no matter of it is a fron or rear action screw, or a base screw in the front or the rear of the bolt.

Cat

25-284 · #39 04-24-2011, 10:45 AM

when these came out,a year or two ago i grabbed one.i did have the same problem,had ks look at the ID inside the bolt ,was not letting the brass to be grabbed by the extractor, QC at the big green not what it used to be. thats what it is, good luck with it,hope it shoots like mine,when its fixed, enjoy

Pathfinder76 · #40 04-24-2011, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrostyinHell

Cat you are absolutely right. I had to jump in when I saw Chuck jumping you like Father Badtouch on an alter boy.

I have been working on firearms for quite some time (in the military and civilian) and see this a lot actually. I see it most with Savage and remington rifles (the ones I work on most) and with everything from leupold mounts to custom stuff from Farrell. I just had it happen to me with a new Savage FCSS and Farrell mounts, the screws were 1/16" too long and stopped the bolt from closing. This would be a good place to start if you still haven't figured it out. Rifles are fully checked including pressure checked prior to leaving the factory so the bolt obviously was able to close then.

Someone can maybe help me out with the meaning of front and chamber here.

double gun · #41 04-24-2011, 02:28 PM

Its sad you had to take pictures for some to get it.

gitrdun · #42 04-24-2011, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by double gun

Its sad you had to take pictures for some to get it.

Actually, it was me who incorrectly stated chamber when I should have said action. All that read my suggestion on scope base machine screws being too long and interfering with the bolt knew exactly what I meant. Only a couple felt compeled to disect it. I don't begrudge chuck as I've taken my fair amount of cheap shots at him, and I fully realize that I had one owed. So perhaps we could move on and try to help out rapalaman. And if it makes you feel better chuck, I apologize for the cheap shot in the other thread.

FrostyinHell · #43 04-24-2011, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuck

Someone can maybe help me out with the meaning of front and chamber here.

In the above picture the forward hole is in fact where your barrel will screw into, The hole behind that (Aft forward mounting hole is where problems arise. If your mounting screw is too long it can protrude into the channel that the lugs lock into. You will get the bolt fully forward but won't be able to lock the handle down. With Remington there is a 90 degree bolt throw so when you push the bolt closed the lugs enter the forward part of the receiver at 3 and 9 o'clock and when you lock the bolt down the lugs rotate to the 12 and 6 o'clock position. The problem is that the screw will stick through at the 12 o'clock position and block you from rotating the bolt to the fully closed and locked position. Check to see if your screw sticks into you lug recess and if so take it for a quick trip to the bench grinder and try again. Don't let the screw get hot, use quick on/off sanding to avoid messing up the screws temper. I hope that this helps, but if not let me know and we'll get to the bottom of her.

berjerkin · #44 04-24-2011, 08:33 PM

My Remington had a similar issue, bolt would not close with any kind of brass, but worked fine with an empty chamber. tirns out the chamber was cut too small, the only way to resolve it was to use small base dies. 2 different gunsmiths could not fix it for me for some reason.

roger · #45 04-24-2011, 09:08 PM

kinda off topic, did remington give the traditional freebore that the standard mark fives have.?

Lefty-Canuck · #46 04-24-2011, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roger

kinda off topic, did remington give the traditional freebore that the standard mark fives have.?

Roger,

I don't believe they do, so I think someone loading a WBY chambering in a different make of rifle would have to watch for COL. In my Accumark .300WBY I load my rounds to a COL that will cycle in and out of the magazine without issue and thats what my COL becomes. No way in heck I would be able to have a COL anywhere near the lands in that one.

Lefty