Hitch deformation at Pin?

[Off in the Bushes]

As you can see in the photos there is some deformation of the steel on the hitch around the pin. What would cause this? Hitch is on a F350, receiver is a 2.5” opening and I’ve been using a reducer sleeve to tow with my 2” weight distribution hitch. I tow a travel trailer that is as max 7500lbs.

[Dick284]

Dunno what causes it, but I’ve got the same thing on my Silverado 1500(2”), it’s been that way for quite a few years, hasn’t got any worse, I even had the receiver dye penetrated to check for cracks, and their weren’t any.

The receivers can’t be built to too close of tolerances or you’d have one heck of a time inserting or removing your hitch if a bit of grit, or grime ingresses the gap.

Any decent welding or machining shop will have dye penetrant capabilities, get them to check for cracks, and decide your next best action.

I cheated since we have all manner of dye penetrant left over at my work place, so I did it myself.

[Dean2]

The adapters are not all that tight so they move under load. Also looks like the pin hole was over size to start with. That combination is hogging out the pin hole even more. I would get a 2.5" shank put onto the weight distribution hitch, which gets rid of the adapter, weld up the hole and re-punch it the proper size for the pin. Pin should just slide into place.

[-JR-]

What I do with mine is drill and tap two 3/8 bolt holes side by side on top of the female receiver and screw two bolts in so it hold the male receiver down . Doing this stops it from jumping up and down when you hit a bump and you don't here a big bang every time you go over a bump in the road .

[TROLLER]

Iput on the Rhino hitch tightener on mine. Never an issue

I holds the hitch tight so there is never any movement. Got mine at Amazon around 40 bucks but the best thing for any hitch.

[Dean2]

Picture of the Rhino Toller was talking about. They work good but are a bit of a pain if you slide your hitch in and out very often. If you leave it in place, very good solution to hitch bang and rattle. Cost about $25, don't think you could make your own for much less unless you have the stuff laying around.

[Off in the Bushes]

Originally Posted by Dean2

The adapters are not all that tight so they move under load. Also looks like the pin hole was over size to start with. That combination is hogging out the pin hole even more. I would get a 2.5" shank put onto the weight distribution hitch, which gets rid of the adapter, weld up the hole and re-punch it the proper size for the pin. Pin should just slide into place.

So I went out and purchased a 2.5” receiver for my boat. I measure the play in the hitch from all the way do to all the way up, when installed. My old 2” receiver with sleeve had a travel of 9/16” from top to bottom, the new 2.5” receiver only has 3/8” for vertical travel.

I am concerned that there might be some deformation of the hitch itself with all the vertical banging up and down, could it elongate the hitch, compounding the issue further.

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by Off in the Bushes

So I went out and purchased a 2.5” receiver for my boat. I measure the play in the hitch from all the way do to all the way up, when installed. My old 2” receiver with sleeve had a travel of 9/16” from top to bottom, the new 2.5” receiver only has 3/8” for vertical travel.

I am concerned that there might be some deformation of the hitch itself with all the vertical banging up and down, could it elongate the hitch, compounding the issue further.

Makes me wonder about your hitch. If I put the adapter in place and use a 2" hitch, which I tried when I first got the new truck, because my load leveller off my 96 2500 was a 2" shank too, the play in the adapter and the play in the male hitch in the adapter created a lot of wiggle and play. On my old truck it was such a tight fit in the 2" receiver that I had to 3 in 1 it and then drive it loose with a sledge to get it off the truck. As tight a fit as it was on the 96, it was loose in the adapter and the adapter was loose in the receiver so I figured that was not going to be a good setup.

That is why I switched to a 2.5" Male shaft. That one JUST barely slides into the receiver and you have to slide it in perfectly square for it not to bind. Installed with the pin in place, max travel for full up to full down is like 1/16" at most, it just barely moves at all. You are getting almost a half inch of play on yours so that is going to bang and rattle. Your only solution will be to use the Rhino hitch tightener, or build up the male receiver shaft to a tighter fit or something similar. JR's fix would work too.

As far as elongating the hitch if you leave it as is, I doubt that is possible. Biggest issue will be all the banging and rattling but it won't be unsafe. Personally though, I don't like rattles, bangs and other unnecessary noise so I am kind of picky about setup.

[sako1]

Originally Posted by Off in the Bushes

As you can see in the photos there is some deformation of the steel on the hitch around the pin. What would cause this? Hitch is on a F350, receiver is a 2.5” opening and I’ve been using a reducer sleeve to tow with my 2” weight distribution hitch. I tow a travel trailer that is as max 7500lbs.

Its the curved portion of your hitch pin. Seen it 1000 times including my own

[Off in the Bushes]

Originally Posted by sako1

Its the curved portion of your hitch pin. Seen it 1000 times including my own

So I guess I’ll swap it out for a straight pin? As for the play I think I might run a bead of weld down the receiver to remove some of that play. Would that work. Would one worry about tempering the steel with the welder?

[BUSHRVN]

I had the same thing happening. I welded up the hole and reamed it to be so tight that I had to tap the pin in with a hammer. The bar was also a solid one and was a tight fit on the pin as well yet after doing the repair twice, it still hammered it out. This was with a 16,000 lbs RV. So I eventually just welded a 1” rod onto the end of the bar and I put a plate washer on the back end of the receiver tube and torque up the nut and double nut it to keep it there. No rattles or movement at all and I pitty the fool who thinks he’s gonna walk off with it!
CC558076-4C58-43B6-844F-855D4EDB7E86.jpeg

[Dean2]

Interesting point, I never really thought about it but I have always used a grade 6 bolt with a washer and a nylon lock nut teo hold my hitches in the receiver. The shanks were always solid steel so the nut and volt sucks it down good and tight and makes them fairly hard to steal. That may be part of the reason I have never seen the hammer out you guys are experiencing. I just thought it was just the pieces being a good tight fit.

[ClutchCanadian4]

I've seen this a few times over the years from people who have warranty concerns, it's the sleeve that causes it. Every case I've ever seen the sleeve is being used. I know it's expensive, especially for a WD hitch but you would be better off purchasing a 2.5" hitch and keep an eye on it. Also could do as mentioned above, and buy/make something to further minimize chances of any play.

[Sleddawg]

Still unsure why Ford felt the need to make it stock to have 2 sleeves in the hitch. I’m thinking majority of truck buyers stick with the 2” receiver. Mine is the same way and my trailer on the back sure bangs around and makes quite the racket

[ClutchCanadian4]

Originally Posted by Sleddawg

Still unsure why Ford felt the need to make it stock to have 2 sleeves in the hitch. I’m thinking majority of truck buyers stick with the 2” receiver. Mine is the same way and my trailer on the back sure bangs around and makes quite the racket

Most heavy duty pick ups have 2.5's on them now. The tow capacities are becoming too much for 2's.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

[tallieho]

I had a recall from GM for a hitch.On my 1500,2018

[Grizzly Adams1]

Logic tells me if there is hole deformation , there is a problem, always amazes me at the simplicity of the system, ONE pin away from disaster. That's why you require safety chains.

Grizz

[Off in the Bushes]

Originally Posted by Grizzly Adams1

Logic tells me if there is hole deformation , there is a problem, always amazes me at the simplicity of the system, ONE pin away from disaster. That's why you require safety chains.

Grizz

Yes, I believe that there is a problem present, I have posted here to draw on the collective knowledge of all the members here so I can correct the root cause of the issue. As this is something that is out of my wheel house of expertise. Hopefully come up with a resolution, to further mitigate damages. But thank you for pointing the towing industries flaws and safety precautions .

[Mountain Guy]

My hitch is the same. Probably from years of use without an anti rattle device.
I always use one now. I think that has helped prevent further deformation of the reciever hole. I'm not too concerned about it failing There's lots of meat there still so can't see it failing. If anything I would think the pin would break.I always look closely at the pin to make sure it doesn't show signs of failure or wear. My 2 bits but not gospel...

[Grizzly Adams1]

Originally Posted by Off in the Bushes

Yes, I believe that there is a problem present, I have posted here to draw on the collective knowledge of all the members here so I can correct the root cause of the issue. As this is something that is out of my wheel house of expertise. Hopefully come up with a resolution, to further mitigate damages. But thank you for pointing the towing industries flaws and safety precautions .

Problem might be you're just exceeding the design load, only to fix that is a stronger hitch.

Grizz

[sako1]

Originally Posted by ClutchCanadian4

I've seen this a few times over the years from people who have warranty concerns, it's the sleeve that causes it. Every case I've ever seen the sleeve is being used. I know it's expensive, especially for a WD hitch but you would be better off purchasing a 2.5" hitch and keep an eye on it. Also could do as mentioned above, and buy/make something to further minimize chances of any play.

Its not the sleeve. Non of my or my customers trucks have the sleeve. Its the curved portion of the pin working back and forth causing the problem.

[Macdsl]

It’s a ford thing mostly. They all suffer from the same issue when using adapters but newer ford hitches have a crap ton of slop built into them. Mine has the 3” hitch, if I use 2 adapters to get it down to my 2” hitch the amount of slop is scary. Problem with using reducers is they change the leverage point on the pin because the sleeves are floating. It’s quite easy and common when using them to bend the hitch pin or deform the hole, weight distribution hitches make it even worse because they put so much pressure on the hitch.

Best practice is run the correct size shaft for the hitch on your truck, everything will be better.

[Off in the Bushes]

Originally Posted by Grizzly Adams1

Problem might be you're just exceeding the design load, only to fix that is a stronger hitch.

Grizz

Definitely not exceeding the design load.

[sako1]

Originally Posted by Macdsl

It’s a ford thing mostly. They all suffer from the same issue when using adapters but newer ford hitches have a crap ton of slop built into them. Mine has the 3” hitch, if I use 2 adapters to get it down to my 2” hitch the amount of slop is scary. Problem with using reducers is they change the leverage point on the pin because the sleeves are floating. It’s quite easy and common when using them to bend the hitch pin or deform the hole, weight distribution hitches make it even worse because they put so much pressure on the hitch.

Best practice is run the correct size shaft for the hitch on your truck, everything will be better.

Its not the adapter.