Tikka T3 ideal action screw torque settings

[teberle]

I've googled this question a fair bit, and there seem to be a variety of opinions. I have a T3 Lite (synthetic stock, plastic trigger guard, etc.) in 270 Win. Wondering if anyone here with the same or similar rifle has experimented with action screw torque settings and the effect on the accuracy of the rifle.

[elkhunter11]

From the online manual

Installation is carried out in reverse order. Tighten the receiver screws to a torque of 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) in metallic trigger guards and max. 5Nm (44 in-lbs) in plastic trigger guards.

[teberle]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

From the online manual

Yeah I saw that. It seems to be from the T3x manual, whereas mine is an older T3. Probably there is no difference, but maybe there is, I don't know.

[Buckhead]

I use 35 in/lbs in the front and 30 in/lbs in the rear even with a metal trigger guard.
There is no way I would ever tighten them to 62 in/lbs.

[Buckhead]

There is a couple of other things I would look at.
Is the barrel free floating? Is it touching the stock at all?
The T3's had the aluminum recoil lug. Is it dented or loose in the stock?
It can be replaced with a stainless or titanium lug and can be bedded into the stock if it is loose. The replacement lugs fit a bit tighter into the action slot so that helps a bit, as well.

[teberle]

Originally Posted by Buckhead

There is a couple of other things I would look at.
Is the barrel free floating? Is it touching the stock at all?
The T3's had the aluminum recoil lug. Is it dented or loose in the stock?
It can be replaced with a stainless or titanium lug and can be bedded into the stock if it is loose. The replacement lugs fit a bit tighter into the action slot so that helps a bit, as well.

The stock has one contact point where it touches the barrel, which is the case with the synthetic T3 stocks. It still has the aluminum lug. I've thought about replacing it with a steel one. Do you have experience with the steel lugs? If so, where did you get it?

[Buckhead]

Originally Posted by teberle

The stock has one contact point where it touches the barrel, which is the case with the synthetic T3 stocks. It still has the aluminum lug. I've thought about replacing it with a steel one. Do you have experience with the steel lugs? If so, where did you get it?

You can get steel replacement lugs at Stoeger Canada

https://www.stoegercanada.ca/shop/ti...oil-lug-black/

The ones I like to use come from Coretac

https://www.coretacsolutions.com/pro...RECOIL_LUG.htm

[dave99]

Originally Posted by Buckhead

I use 35 in/lbs in the front and 30 in/lbs in the rear even with a metal trigger guard.
There is no way I would ever tighten them to 62 in/lbs.

I agree on all points. My T3 with plastic stock is torqued to these exact values.

62 in/lbs seems way too high.


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[teledogs]

I have aftermarket aluminum bottom metals on 2 T3s and I torque to 40 inch pounds on both screws.
I also use Lumley Arms titanium recoil lugs on both of those Tikkas.
Both super accurate.

[REMINGTON JIM]

I Have 4 Tikka T3 Rifles with Stock - B&C - WildCat stocks - I never torque any more then 35 in lbs and ALL of them shoot WELL ! jmo RJ

[Dean2]

First step. bed the recoil lug back to the front of the Mag well and first half inch of the barrel. Properly bedded there is no difference between the aluminum and steel recoil lugs. Next torque front and back to 30 Inch pounds, tighten back first. Verify barrel is still floating with good clearance. Shoot gun, take Fat wrench with you, tighten 5 pounds on front, check group, tighten front five more pounds check group. One of those three will produce the best groups, if all are the same use 30 rear and 35 front. I do this with pretty much all trifles, not just the Tikkas.

[Homesteader]

Originally Posted by Dean2

First step. bed the recoil lug back to the front of the Mag well and first half inch of the barrel. Properly bedded there is no difference between the aluminum and steel recoil lugs. Next torque front and back to 30 Inch pounds, tighten back first. Verify barrel is still floating with good clearance. Shoot gun, take Fat wrench with you, tighten 5 pounds on front, check group, tighten front five more pounds check group. One of those three will produce the best groups, if all are the same use 30 rear and 35 front. I do this with pretty much all trifles, not just the Tikkas.

Interesting that you tighten the rear first, may try that. I've always done the opposite. I tighten the front while holding action and stock to make sure things are where they should be for mating, then just run the rear tight enough to keep the screw in. Never used a torque wrench yet, perhaps on more sensitive stocks it's a benefit. Plus it's not the stock screw, that's limiting my groups

[Buckhead]

Another thing to check is the trigger pull.
I have had some T3s with the factory trigger pull as high as 4 lbs 3 ozs.
For a hunting rifle I like that set right at 3 lbs.

[brewster29]

Tikka manual states 44 in-lb for plastic trigger guards and 62 in-lb for metal trigger guards. But what do they know?

[6.5 shooter]

Originally Posted by Buckhead

I use 35 in/lbs in the front and 30 in/lbs in the rear even with a metal trigger guard.
There is no way I would ever tighten them to 62 in/lbs.

I agree