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01-21-2018, 02:41 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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Fire table build
I've been searching for awhile on how to make a propane burner when i cane across whats called a log burner. I guess back in the day wood burning fire places had these.simply add some black pipe with some holes in it for a burner and your good. For a test i made a wood tray covered the pipe with gravel and works fine. Just have to make a table now. Sure beets paying $3K for one.
Also a regular BBQ regulator doesn't have enough pressure so you need to buy one that can has more pressure The one i got was 0-30 psi. Your able to adjust the flame this way.
Hope this helps someone else whos trying to do the same
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01-21-2018, 02:50 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Calgary
Posts: 1,701
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I’m not sure wood would have been my first choice for constructing a fire table. . .
__________________
You bet your ass I voted
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01-21-2018, 04:19 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tungsten,
I've been searching for awhile on how to make a propane burner when i cane across whats called a log burner. I guess back in the day wood burning fire places had these.simply add some black pipe with some holes in it for a burner and your good. For a test i made a wood tray covered the pipe with gravel and works fine. Just have to make a table now. Sure beets paying $3K for one.
Also a regular BBQ regulator doesn't have enough pressure so you need to buy one that can has more pressure The one i got was 0-30 psi. Your able to adjust the flame this way.
Hope this helps someone else whos trying to do the same
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Black pipe with holes is pretty vague? What’s the burner look like?
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01-21-2018, 05:02 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 7,763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dewalt18
I’m not sure wood would have been my first choice for constructing a fire table. . .
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He said he did that "for a test.....
I'dimagine black pipe with holes in is pretty descriptive in this case. Black pipe with holes drilled in it. Spacing and size is up to you as that alters the type of flames provided.
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01-21-2018, 06:09 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,073
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That's cool. What exactly does the log burner do though? It it a flame back burn arrest? I have one of those in my wood burning fire place but have been nervous to try it. It has a ball valve handle on the wall too.
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01-21-2018, 06:25 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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Not exactly sure what's in the log lighter. The air hole wide open works the best. The end has 3/8 Threads and I've tried both 3/8 and 1/2 black pipe(gas line)for a burner. The regulator allows a lot of gas if you turn it up so holes could be 1/16 1-4" appart. Once the fire glass goes over the burner you get the same effect. The fire pan im just going to use tile over cement board over ply.
You can buy similar kits all in SS but there pricey.
The black pipe will rust if left un covered.I'm building this for under my patio so i think it will work
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01-21-2018, 06:31 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,073
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Make sure to post pics when the build is finished!
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01-21-2018, 08:34 PM
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: The South
Posts: 1,129
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02-19-2018, 11:26 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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I’m now working on the pan or tray that will hold the burner. I have some aluminum that I will miter to create the top frame. I tried for the first time brazing the aluminum. Went ok takes awhile to get it hot enough ,what I’m finding is the filler rod is very hard to grind. My goal is to polish the frame and have the joins disappear.
I’ll try next to taper the seams a little more and see if I can get the filler rod to melt flush so little to no sanding is needed.
So my questions, is there a special grinding disk for aluminum? Will I be able to get the seam to disappear?Is there maybe a softer brazing rod available?
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02-19-2018, 11:44 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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Looking for something like this
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02-19-2018, 12:52 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dewalt18
I’m not sure wood would have been my first choice for constructing a fire table. . .
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Thinking the same. That is OSB. Glue and wood. Design looks good but I would be rethinking the material used.
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02-19-2018, 02:15 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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So it seams to work. The brazing that is ,just took a little sanding. I cheated a ran some silver soder over the braze was a lot easier to sand
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02-19-2018, 02:32 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Camrose
Posts: 2,359
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I assumed you were a welder because of tungsten. Maybe not? Anyways, aluminum is easy enough to weld if you have the tools/skills.... Never actually tried brazing it but maybe it's working for you. As far as grinding, use a sanding disc (I call them Flapper discs). Basically a whole bunch of overlapping pieces of sandpaper made into a disc. They will clog up quick with soft metals like aluminum though. Might need a few.
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02-19-2018, 06:01 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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no not a welder,thanks for the disk tip ,i just happen to have one.
heating the part up is the challenge , its too big for my bbq .going to try map gas next.
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02-19-2018, 11:05 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Alberta
Posts: 2,824
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To keep a disc from clogging and grabing/jumping keep it wiped with paro wax , { caning wax} so the aluminum doesn't stick to it. I used to work building the salmon net drums in BC , lots of aluminum grinding on them, and it has to be super smooth..
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02-26-2018, 05:50 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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A little up date, brazing hasn’t gone well so still just working on the pan. I’ve sanded and polished the aluminum frame. Was surprised how shinny it is. Frame is built from steel studs which the aluminum pieces fit over. May just leave the miters open still working on that. I’ve since hooked the burner up to natural gas, works fine will be much cheaper to run
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06-24-2019, 09:52 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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Been awhile thought I’d update. Burner has worked well.Heat stays in the metal frame without issues.
Started the actual table and cement top.Im pouring the cement in place.
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06-24-2019, 09:55 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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Cement poured and vibrated. Needs a few days to cure.
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06-24-2019, 10:10 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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Here’s the burner. Just a steel stud cut into a rectangle,bottom is left over aluminum facia. Gas line is black pipe drilled with 1/16 holes. Attached to the mixing valve witch is from a log lighter you’d find in the old wood burning fire places. Simple and cheap to build.
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06-24-2019, 10:17 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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The fire glass is just dollar store stuff. No need to buy the expensive stuff. It doesn’t explode.
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06-24-2019, 10:28 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 304
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I’m curious about that cast ‘mixer’ piece with the air hole in it.
What convinces air to go in, instead of gas coming out? (I know it works, I just don’t know how!)
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06-24-2019, 10:53 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldan Grumpi
I’m curious about that cast ‘mixer’ piece with the air hole in it.
What convinces air to go in, instead of gas coming out? (I know it works, I just don’t know how!)
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works the same as a bbq or your rv fridge I guess.
What you need is a bigger regulator on the propane tank,regular bbq ones dont push out enough,something around 10-15 psi is what you need.Ive researched adding in an orfice to help raise the hight of the flame when im on NG, but thats as far as ive gotten.
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06-24-2019, 11:07 AM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: A bit North o' Center...
Posts: 11,242
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I'd say that it's turning out pretty nice. Lot of work going into it!
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06-24-2019, 11:10 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinky Buffalo
I'd say that it's turning out pretty nice. Lot of work going into it!
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I’ve done cement tops before in a mold,much easier then pour in place. I spent a lot of time on that. Hope it works. I’ll pop the mould off tomorrow.
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06-27-2019, 08:19 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,308
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Mold popped off,worked pretty well. At 3 days old the edges can be sanded and rounded over.
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