Re-blue a .22 rifle - $450.00 ??

[dmac]

I recently asked a gunsmith for a price on re-blue on an old .22 that I am considering restoring. Fully restored the piece might be worth $350.00. I was quoted $450.00 for reblue only. Is this the going rate??? or the I don't have time for you rate. Help please>

[MOAhunter]

Armco is highly regarded by many on CGN. Never used him myself but $175 for blued bead blasted finish would be very reasonable.
Don't forget shipping and tax on top of that.

http://armco-guns.com

[wwbirds]

as I recall it cost $125-150. for deep bluing but there was a charge for taking apart and putting back together afterwards of $50 or $75.

[cornuteo]

If they want 450 tell them to pound sand... Going rate is between 150 and 200.

[Skytop B]

That sounds a liitle excessive. Unless there is alot of rust and pitting. It takes alot of hours to make that dissapear.

[MattSako]

Originally Posted by cornuteo

If they want 450 tell them to pound sand... Going rate is between 150 and 200.

x2

[Faststeel]

Originally Posted by MattSako

x2

Matt you know how many hours of hand sanding in takes to do a high polish bluing job? I have done a few years ago when Pemier Firearms was open. $450 is the going rate for a professional finish. FS

[Pathfinder76]

Originally Posted by Faststeel

Matt you know how many hours of hand sanding in takes to do a high polish bluing job? I have done a few years ago when Pemier Firearms was open. $450 is the going rate for a professional finish. FS

Agreed. The prep is where the cost is.

[gitrdun]

Originally Posted by chuck

Agreed. The prep is where the cost is.

Very much so if you want a nice job.

[bobinthesky]

Hasty prepping will ruin the job too. It's all too easy to dish out the steel around lettering and sharp corners.
If all you want is for the gun to be re blued, then 150 or 200 will do it but if you want it done real nice, 450 is probably what it's worth.

[gitrdun]

For a more economical alternative to an inexpensive firearm, I would also suggest parkerizing. Although it still requires preparation work, it isn't as intensive as a nice caustic bluing job.

[Leeper]

It is up to the customer to communicate what he expects to the person doing the re-bluing. It is then up to the gunsmith to determine what will be involved in achieveing the customer's expectations. I recall re-finishing a Winchester Hi-wall where the octagon barrel had been polished with a buffing wheel and all flats were rounded. I had to draw-file the barrel and receiver then polish everything. Took about two days to prepare the rifle for bluing. 450 would be cheap for that job today. I have a Winchester 1906 which is heavily pitted and I would charge at least that to blue it even though it is just an old 22.
So, it depends what you are expecting and from where you are starting. Keep in mind, a customer may say he doesn't expect much but the gunsmith doesn't dare produce work which is not up to his standard. What the customer expects when the job is contracted and what he expects when the job is done are often two completely different things. The solution here is to determine what the job is worth to you then find someone who will do it for that. Always be aware that you may get what you pay for. Leeper

[dmac]

Thanks for the feedback.

[ACKLEY ABE]

Originally Posted by Leeper

It is up to the customer to communicate what he expects to the person doing the re-bluing. It is then up to the gunsmith to determine what will be involved in achieveing the customer's expectations. I recall re-finishing a Winchester Hi-wall where the octagon barrel had been polished with a buffing wheel and all flats were rounded. I had to draw-file the barrel and receiver then polish everything. Took about two days to prepare the rifle for bluing. 450 would be cheap for that job today. I have a Winchester 1906 which is heavily pitted and I would charge at least that to blue it even though it is just an old 22.
So, it depends what you are expecting and from where you are starting. Keep in mind, a customer may say he doesn't expect much but the gunsmith doesn't dare produce work which is not up to his standard. What the customer expects when the job is contracted and what he expects when the job is done are often two completely different things. The solution here is to determine what the job is worth to you then find someone who will do it for that. Always be aware that you may get what you pay for. Leeper

All so true... I don't think most are aware of the work that goes into a "good" bluing job....

I'm afraid that anyone that would blue any of my rifles for 125.00 to 150.00 would not see the work coming their way. I think the current beading and bluing and Parkerizing is a reflection of what people are prepared to pay. I've seen so-called Parkerizing that I would bet was done with bbq paint.

To each their own, but not the way I would go personally.

Right now I have a Cpl of rifles that I would like re-blued, but even if I can talk Rod Henrickson into setting up his bluing tanks, I would not expect him to do it for any less than 400.00 plus. Even a re-blue on a rifle that does not have any pits or finishing issues, there is a ton of work to prep a rifle.

If you want an expert bluing job you will need to pay fairly for the work it involves....same as anything .

Anyway...off to see Rod this morning...I'll bug him again just to get him going.....

[Bushleague]

Originally Posted by Leeper

It is up to the customer to communicate what he expects to the person doing the re-bluing. It is then up to the gunsmith to determine what will be involved in achieveing the customer's expectations. I recall re-finishing a Winchester Hi-wall where the octagon barrel had been polished with a buffing wheel and all flats were rounded. I had to draw-file the barrel and receiver then polish everything. Took about two days to prepare the rifle for bluing. 450 would be cheap for that job today. I have a Winchester 1906 which is heavily pitted and I would charge at least that to blue it even though it is just an old 22.
So, it depends what you are expecting and from where you are starting. Keep in mind, a customer may say he doesn't expect much but the gunsmith doesn't dare produce work which is not up to his standard. What the customer expects when the job is contracted and what he expects when the job is done are often two completely different things. The solution here is to determine what the job is worth to you then find someone who will do it for that. Always be aware that you may get what you pay for. Leeper

Just out of curiosity by "buffing wheel" do you mean one of those flapper wheels or a wire wheel? Just curious as I was thinking of getting a rifle blued and wanted to do whatever prep work I could. I had assumed that a die grinder with a wire wheel could be used but if this is not true I wont use it.

As a millwright I clean off a lot of dinged up shafts and gasket faces, I find it surprising the amount of guys who will go to town on something like this with a flapper wheel, if it makes sparks its taking metal off which is generally a bad thing.

[Skytop B]

Originally Posted by Bushleague

Just out of curiosity by "buffing wheel" do you mean one of those flapper wheels or a wire wheel? Just curious as I was thinking of getting a rifle blued and wanted to do whatever prep work I could. I had assumed that a die grinder with a wire wheel could be used but if this is not true I wont use it.

As a millwright I clean off a lot of dinged up shafts and gasket faces, I find it surprising the amount of guys who will go to town on something like this with a flapper wheel, if it makes sparks its taking metal off which is generally a bad thing.

Ususlly a loose muslin wheel, different wheel for each grit size 140 through 600 then a couple more wheels with even finer polish is used. The polish is applied to the spinning muslin wheel and allowed to dry a few minutes. There are also varying hardness felt wheels for the last couple steps. The buffer looks like a grinder yes. A fine wire wheel is used for carding during a slow rust blue procedure.

[Skytop B]

You have to be very carefull not to round corners, smear lettering and pin holes.don't use the dremel!!!!!

This is my little buffer and just a few of the wheels needed to get a good finish. Some parts like Leeper said are best hand polished but this works good if you are careful





This is how the polish comes