Neck sizing die question

[CheeseBurger]

So tonight I started using a neck sizing die for the first time. Brand new Redding Series A neck sizing die for 6.5x55. Got it setup to size just to the top of the shoulder, doesn't seem to be pushing the shoulder back. Good. There is no gap between shell holder and die though, like I have seen in videos that there should be. I even back the die off and worked it back down again to be sure.
Lube cases like normal - Imperial for the body and every 10th one gets a dunk in a jar with shotgun pellets and graphite powder. Pull lever and case goes into die nice and easy, the down stroke is where my question is. How much effort should there be there? I'm getting a fair noise when on the middle of the down stroke and it takes quit a bit more effort to get the case out. I know it shouldn't be easy but not sure it should be this hard. That being said - it's not to the point where I'm afraid the case is going to become stuck. Thoughts? Brass isn't new - could it just be work hardening? I did find a piece of brass that split at the neck, not sure if it was a result of neck sizing or from last firing.

[260 Rem]

I do not have Type A Redding dies but offer the following comments. First, I doubt that "work hardening" would increase the effort required as the brass would still compress. .. Neck sizing does not require much muscle. Second, the noise could well be cry for some lube. Try a bit of the Imperial on the inside of the neck using a cue tip. Third, the metal to metal contact is IMO, not a problem as long as you are not touching the shoulder. Check to see if there is in fact, some space when under load. If this is bothering you, maybe adjust to size just a bit further up the neck

[32-40win]

The neck die doesn't size the body, you don't need to lube the body. But, your description of lubing the neck every 10th one in graphite, sounds like why you are getting drag on pulling out, try it every third one, or every one.
I expect you'll feel the difference right away.

[CheeseBurger]

Not enough lube was definitely the issue. Just ran some more through. Five with graphite on every one, was improving but still a little sticky. I then rubbed some Imperial with a q-tip and that definitely took care of it.

260Rem- the last seven cases just mentioned were once fired where as the others have been FL sized a number of times and the first couple of the newer cases that I really lubed with graphite still made the same sound so I think you are right about work hardening not playing a role!

32-40 - Should have thought about not needing lube on the body of the case. I was afraid of getting one stuck and didn't think it through. Thanks!

[Dick284]

I media tumble prior to sizing my cases( helps with not scratching the inside of the dies)[treated nutshell]
I then use a nylon neck brush to apply some die wax to the inside of the case necks.( a fingers pinch ever 20 or so cases is plenty of wax)

You will need to dry media tumble your cases after sizing( I use plain walnut shell)

Bye the bye, how's the case length of the squeaky cases as compared to the smooth ones?

[tchardy1972]

Excellent question. I'd bet they are longer.

[silver]

I have one cartridge that I neck size for, I like to leave part of the neck unsized as a bit of an aid in aligning the case in the chamber. I put a bit of Hoppes 9 on a cloth and wipe the outside of the case neck, I have a set of brushes to clean the inside of the case. The Hoppes 9 lubricates the case in the die and when you wipe it off after sizing, clean cases.

[260 Rem]

I suspect that work hardening is talked about a lot more than it actually occurs. I have one set of 30 BR brass fired over 30X that still works well. Of course hotter and more overbore rounds will act a bit different ... but Sweedes don't usually fit in those categories.
I brush the inside of necks and "clean" the outside of the neck using a dab of case lube on Kleenex. That removes most of the carbon and of course lubes the outside of the neck so it is ready for the sizer die. If I was using the expander button, I would lube inside the necks as well. This will help to keep the button pulling straight out, which will help maintain concentricity. Also, when lubing inside the neck, I always wipe it clean with Kleenex to inusure consistent release friction, and to guard against any possible powder contamination.
Note: Sometimes you can get away with using lube on every third case ... Until the lube rubs off the tooling. But, don,t get too lazy. Accuracy follows consistency.
Note: If powder is sticking to the inside of the neck, you are not getting all the lube out. Also, clean the button at regular intervals to remove the lube tha can accumulate on the bottom end.

[spurly]

For luring the inside of the necks, I use the kit that Lyman makes, come with brushes that are upright, with graphite, dip the neck into the graphite, then to the brush. Works good

[Pathfinder76]

Do not try and size the neck clear to the shoulder. And graphite sucks.

[qwert]

Originally Posted by spurly

For luring the inside of the necks, I use the kit that Lyman makes, come with brushes that are upright, with graphite, dip the neck into the graphite, then to the brush. Works good

I suspect you are actually using 'motor mica' in the Lyman kit?
http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/c...eck-dipper.php

quote from
http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/c...ss%20Instr.pdf
Case Neck Lube Dry (Motor Mica):
Motor Mica is a dry lubricant that be used to ease the pas-
sage of the resizing die’s expander ball. Pour small amount of
Motor Mica supplied in a small plastic vial into round recess
on edge of unit. Once you have used the appropriate brush
to clean your case neck dip the case neck into Motor Mica
and tap off any excess. Note this operation should be done
prior to decapping and sizing.


From Redding
http://www.redding-reloading.com/onl...ial-lubricants

[260 Rem]

Originally Posted by chuck

Do not try and size the neck clear to the shoulder. And graphite sucks.

Good advice.

[CheeseBurger]

chuck - Care to elaborate on both points?

Spurly - I have one of those kits but found I liked the little container with shot and graphite in it better.

Not sure if the case length was playing a role. I didn't measure the case length until after the fact and have no way of knowing which ones were making noise. I will pay closer attention to checking them if I run into the same problem again.

What's the general consensus on neck sizing hunting ammo? Yay or nay? My hunting partners don't hunt with the same cartridge so no worries about mixing ammo up. If I check to ensure every round I'm carrying will chamber, I don't see a problem.

[silver]

Originally Posted by CheeseBurger

If I check to ensure every round I'm carrying will chamber, I don't see a problem.

All you need to do.

[Pathfinder76]

Don't approach the shoulder and you don't need to. I have used graphite and it is not that great of a lubricant for that application. I use sizing die wax on a brush as someone already mentioned. A little goes a long way, 5-7 cases, and I leave it there.

[260 Rem]

Cheesexxxx . I can not say for sure but my theory is that the graphite does not adhere to the brass / expander button / sizer bushing as reliably or evenly as the liquid/paste stuff. Even when FL sizing, I typically apply it only to every second or third case.
Again, no evidence other than on paper, but my theory regarding staying forward of the neck-shoulder junction is based on my belief that the donut is less pronounced, and that the reduction in radial clearance may enhance accuracy.

[sikwhiskey]

Originally Posted by CheeseBurger

What's the general consensus on neck sizing hunting ammo? Yay or nay? My hunting partners don't hunt with the same cartridge so no worries about mixing ammo up. If I check to ensure every round I'm carrying will chamber, I don't see a problem.

Neck sizing is fine, its all i do on any bolt gun. Chamber and extract every round, if the bolt closes with a bit of resistance,"feel", you might want to use those ones for practice or hunting……except dangerous game, then bump the shoulder back a bit, "Partial size", the next time round.

[gitrdun]

Personnaly, I prefer a collet die for neck sizing as they will not alter the shoulder after fire forming. In my prefered hunting rifle, I do neck size with it. But, I do run the brass thru the gun before priming and charging as to avoid wasted time and components.

[CheeseBurger]

Points well taken. I don't have any more brass to resize so next time I neck size I will adjust it so it's not resizing right to the shoulder. Hopefully I'll get out on Sunday, work permitting.