Help with sanding and finishing a new rifle stock

[bsmitty27]

Its a nice piece of wood. Ordered it from gunstocks inc. It fits a tc pro hunter.
It came with a synthetic thumbhole stock. I just thought it deserved a nice piece of walnut. Got it today. Started sanding. I'm useing a wood block for the flats dowel for groves. And my hand everywhere else. Started with 100g. It doesn't come with a fine finish. Obviously going to be working my way up from here and on to wet sanding and 000 steel wool.
I have some wood I want to eat under the cheek rise to create a little more defination. Any tips for sanding?

For finishing. I want to use a 100% tung oil. I'm in no hurry and I want to do it right. Lots of sites rave about true oil. But I have a hard time beliving the hype. I like the feel of wood. I have done some reasearch and from what I found 100% tung oil should darken very little over time, unlike boiled linseed oil.
I used a tung oil on my walnut stair railing, and interior doors, and every time I glide my hand along the rail, it just feels good. That's what I want in a rifle stock. I don't like wood that feels like plastic.
If there are any other options I should look at or any techniques I should use please help me out.
Thanks.
Brad

[Dean2]

Tung Oil does not make a good finish on wood that will be used in rain and snow. It has almost no resistance to moisture. Tru Oil is the right choice for finishing a nice piece of walnut. There is another recent thread on using it and a couple of good links in the thread on finishing walnut.

As far as sanding, block and dowel and woking up to 800 grit wet and dry work great. If you are trying to make a high light line fine chisels and properly shaped files are the right tools. It is very hard to get a smooth well defined line using sand paper.

http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=224974

[bsmitty27]

Thanks for the input dean!

Anyone have an example of a stock finished with true oil, around Edmonton. I'd love to look at it!

The most important thing about a finish for me is the feel, that's why I am drawn to natural oils.
I'm going to lee valey tomorrow to grab a few tools, some reading material and mabey some insight. Any other good woodworking/finishing shops to chec out in Edmonton?
Any and all input on stock shaping and finishing is appriciated.
Thanks
Brad

[Canuck Bob]

I Truoiled an old Ruger 10-22 from when they were walnut stocked. It was used back then and the Tru Oil has stood up real well.

[ak-71]

Sorry - I am not much help and not an expert, but I have to disagree about tung oil, it is an oil finish and takes time, actually, forever as I reapplied yearly at least, I had hard time doing it at the beginning when I refinished a Turkish over/under when the walnut was still porous but eventually (after trying "mud cake sanding") it polymerized inside the wood and it held up well and sold for more than I bought it for. Sealing the wood I couldn't see helped too I think with the swelling (just a sealant), before I could actually feel forearm swelling when you take it off after raining. The only gun I really regret I had to sell. After Yildiz replaced the barrels on warranty it was one really sweet gun.

PS. Guess I got lucky, but with oil finish wood was just glowing from inside, no "shell" finish

PPS. It's been a while but I remember something like "Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and then once a year forever"? But since I can't Google it it it must be wrong

PPS. Sorry for all the edits, but English IS a very second language for me

[bsmitty27]

Bob and dean or anyone else, how would you describe the feel and look of the true oil finish. Does it stick like a poly? ( if you slide your cheek in to position does it stick or slide)
Ak thanks for the info. I'm not totally given up on the tung oil yet. But need to do more research.
Thanks everyone. Looks like its lee valley on sat now.
Brad

[Dean2]

Applied and rubbed out the same way Tung Oil and Tru-Oil have a very similar look and feel when finished. The difference is the Tru-oil hardens and stays hard even in real hot weather, and it is far more moisture resistant. Tru-oil is polymerized Linseed oil with other additives. Applied as a satin finish, you can have it with no surface coat, just the hardened coat that is sunk into the wood, or you can have a top coat if you want a glossier finish.

AK-71's quote about once a day for a week etc came from the description of applying Lindseed oil, which never really hardens.

You asked for opinions and that is what we have tried to provide. If Tung oil is what you still want to use, there have been lots of guns done with it. Strictly up to you.

[ACKLEY ABE]

I've done a lot of stks with True Oil and it does work well. As Dean says it is basically Linseed oil with spar varnish added. Apply a bit at a time and stretch it out with your palm...After each coat, card it and start again. If you want to speed up the drying process, apply a bit of Japan Dryer after you put the True oil on...again cpl of drops and stretch it out.

I have stks that I did 25 years ago that still look great and have a depth to the finish that is hard to beat. A good pc of walnut, finished properly is a thing of beauty and a joy to behold....as my freind Rod Henrickson, likes to say...

Remember to whisker the stk and fill the pores before you try to finish. Again True Oil in small amts with 600 grit worked to a mud and then wiped across with a coarse cloth, dry, card again....

And yes...I prefer a satin finish as well. I might try to get some pics posted this weekend if I can figure out how to post em. Have to do it from home...company puter blocks just about everything.

Enjoy and post pics.

[rayf01]

Here is one I just did with TruOil. It was my first refinish. I wanted it a bit more satin but I still like how it turned out.

http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=225323



I just seen you replied to that thread sorry I missed it. Overall it was a very difficult job, just time and some concentration. It definitely hardens up and you can tell it will be a durable finish.

[bsmitty27]

Here are a couple pics of the stock. I haven't changed much with fire stock. The rear I have done a bit of work too. Made the lines of cheek piece alot sharper and shortened it up a bit. The LOP is 14" without recoil pad. So I'm going to cut a bit off the back. I should of taken a before pic. I mainly used scrapers to remove material. Simple and effective

[petew]

I have done several with Tru Oil and the tool I use most preparing the stock is a Cabinet scraper .

[Austin]

Tru oil video application methods "a plenty" on youtube.

[bsmitty27]

Anyone ever stipple a rifle stock. I don't think I have the patience for checkering. Was thinking doing a carved outline then stipple the grips.
Thanks
Brad