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12-02-2012, 07:21 AM
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Banned
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: St Albert
Posts: 816
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Building detatched garage - size/cost?
Hoping some of the AO'ers can provide some info...
Looking to build a detached garage for small acreage.
Thinking 2 cars (one suv/one 1500), plus 2 quads, workbench area, enough room for a couple of stand up freezers, some storage.
Thinking 2 doors, one overheight (not sure how high, don't 'need' it now, but seems like a good idea).
One man door.
Windows.
Plumbed/heated with gas.
Wired/lights
? - How large does it need to be? (I understand there are significant price steps dependent on what trusses/size is used?)
? - What sizes do others have, used for??
? - Price - It is from scratch, no pad, nothing (and I'm not doing any of the work!)... I realize this is a very broad question, but any guidance is appreciated!
Thanks!
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12-02-2012, 07:51 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Sexsmith
Posts: 488
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Packages
I recommend getting a package cost from places like UFA, Home Hardware, Totem, Home Depot etc........then once you have a size find out the cement costs (for the pad) this price can vary greatly in different areas. Then some quotes from contractors.
Depending on size, distance from service providers (cement, contractors, electricians etc) you can plan on 40-60,000.00 I would say for what you want.
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Live each day like its the last.....
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12-02-2012, 07:52 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Grovedale
Posts: 177
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I built a garage this summer on our acreage, I use Nelson lumber for the package. There price was far cheaper then anyone else's
I guess I'll start form the start
- gravel was 2400 but that was pad and 100 meter driveway
- concrete was 6500
-rebar was 700
- shop package was 20000
- wiring was 2000, 26 plugs 12 lights, 3 fans, welding plug, air compress plug
- cable form pole to shop 1200
- heating for now is a ardent energy hr80 wood stove
I made a 80 x120 pad and built a 40x60x12 with 2x6 walls, has 6 windows, 2 man doors,2 12x10'9 doors
I was fairly lucky and was able to use friends and family's equipment and trucks for landscaping and hauling gravel, digging,etc
Some of my family and friends helped me build and finish it
Nelson lumber beat totems price by over 8000
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12-02-2012, 08:03 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 293
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If you're doing none of it I'm imagining that prices are going to be all over the place. I'm going to say that I'm with chopper man. The last garage(24 by 20, one man and car door) I built for a guy on supplied pad totaled something like 17ish package and labor. Garage Built on the place I just moved into( pole building,tin,4 inch concrete floor, one man and overhead, no heat/gas, wired, 30 by 40) was $32000 ish.
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12-02-2012, 08:06 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mons Lake
Posts: 2,262
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A pole type building might be cheaper route. For everything you list you will want a pretty big building, at least 30x40. I have always been told to build it as big as you can.
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12-02-2012, 08:14 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lamont
Posts: 863
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I just finished a 28' X 28' garage on our farm. No heat, insulation or drywall yet but it's all powered up. The price will make you stagger a bit, especially with concrete prices where they are. I'm at 35K so far, probably mid forties by the time I get it done.
-Craig
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12-02-2012, 08:46 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Dreadful Valley
Posts: 14,656
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Build it as big as you can, I went 24x26 and it's full.
I built it with concrete pony walls around 1 ft tall, and did full foam insulation to keep the trusses open for easier storage.
Put a full size door in it no less than 8 ft tall.
Wire it for 240 v even if today you have no reason to.
Wire your plugs for 20A using #12 AWG
Put lots of receptacles and lighting fixtures in it too.
Plumb in gas or propane
If you are permitted put in a floor sump( check your bulaws)
Put in at least 2 openable windows
Good luck
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There are no absolutes
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12-02-2012, 08:59 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mons Lake
Posts: 2,262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceedub
I just finished a 28' X 28' garage on our farm. No heat, insulation or drywall yet but it's all powered up. The price will make you stagger a bit, especially with concrete prices where they are. I'm at 35K so far, probably mid forties by the time I get it done.
-Craig
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I think someone took advantage of you, 35k for a 28x28 shell is pretty high.
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12-02-2012, 09:50 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 19,423
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Go as high as your local development authority will allow. If you want you can use concrete pony walls or a few courses of cinderblock to raise a conventional height garage package. If you don't care about seeing out windows (usually just for ambient workshop light) keep them up high so that they don't take up useful wall shelving, cabinet or workbench space. This also makes them a bit more secure if they're too high to be a viable point of forced entry. speaking of forced entry, I did a trick in my door framing on our house where the frames are reinforced against forced entry, there's both much stronger wood (oak) as well as steel reinforcment around the locksets. Use a 36" man door, a 9'-10' overhead door, consider ahead of time if you want to beef up any trusses for hanging a moose for instance. The additional heights will both add major utility to the garage for you, but if resale's ever a factor they will be highly appealing to many buyers, even being the focal point to some.
I'm going to be applying to build our garage with a lofted attic, either for storage or man-cave potential. I see a decent number of these in some neighborhoods in Calgary. Pop in a couple of dormer and gable windows and it'd be a space with some great character.
Its easier and cheaper to make the structure wider by adding another truss or two, than to make it deeper and require gargantuan & expensive trusses. The longer the trusses also makes them higher unless you start messing with the roof pitch. I'd say to go with a 26' truss minimum, 28' tops; play more with the number of them for the width. A 24' doesn't allow enough room to pull in a long vehicle like a crew cab pickup and still have reasonable room to get around it.
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"The trouble with people idiot-proofing things, is the resulting evolution of the idiot." Me
Last edited by CaberTosser; 12-02-2012 at 09:56 AM.
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12-02-2012, 10:01 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 165
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Concrete will be the largest cost it you aren't doing it yourself.
Concrete prices are pretty ridiculous for the labor part, for a 28x31 pad with a thickened edge it was $3k for concrete, $650 for gravel and $6k for forming and dirt work it took our about 6 hours with a broom finish.
If you can find some guys who do concrete as an employee for a company and you can scoop em up on a weekend then it's not too bad.
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12-02-2012, 10:08 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lethbridge Ab
Posts: 3
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Hi new guy! I live in Lethbridge and do a lot of building projects first depending on location of we're you want your garage will decide for size and height . If your are in city garage size is based on a percentage of what your lot is already filled maxium height without a waiver is 10ft 4 inch and you can do a slab on grade with thickened slab . Anything over 28x28 will require a grade beam . As for cost a 24x24 with slab complete with framing to finish with siding shingles and doors will come in between 10 000 and 12 000 . Most of the garage cost will be in cocrete labour and site prep . If you are in the county it will depend on your budget because size restrictions are less restrictive . Hope this helps!
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12-02-2012, 10:21 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Alberta
Posts: 3,650
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Pole buildings will be your most economically practical approach to your shop.. I looked at the 30 x 40 originally and decided that more is better as the area fills up fast
Erected a 52 x 78 x 14 with double 12 x 12 overheads, two man doors and 6 sliding windows. I do regret now on the height, should have went 16 on shop and 14 on overhead doors. Bought a new fifth wheel that is 13' 6" that cost more than the building but can't get it out of the weather
Build as big as you can, you won't regret it !
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