Removing a muzzle brake

ToXicXxX · #1 03-05-2013, 09:56 PM

I recently had a muzzle brake put on my R700 using those horrid crush washers and im just wondering if I can just take a wrench to it and loosen it, and if the threads will be intact? This might be a stupid question, but I'd love to know before I order this new thread/clamp on brake.

SkytopBrewster · #2 03-05-2013, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToXicXxX

I recently had a muzzle brake put on my R700 using those horrid crush washers and im just wondering if I can just take a wrench to it and loosen it, and if the threads will be intact? This might be a stupid question, but I'd love to know before I order this new thread/clamp on brake.

Yeah, they just screw on,might be locktighted tho, why not go to a gunsmith and get him to fit that Badger one you had, you got alot of cash in that rifle, whats a couple hundred to get it installed properly

ToXicXxX · #3 03-05-2013, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkytopBrewster

Yeah, they just screw on,might be locktighted tho, why not go to a gunsmith and get him to fit that Badger one you had, you got alot of cash in that rifle, whats a couple hundred to get it installed properly

Because if it goes on and I deicide I don't like it, then it's got a horrible colar on the barrel. I found one that looks almost the same but uses the threads then screws to lock it down, and it's made in Canada. This also may sound stupid, but I never noticed the badger says "front towards enemy" on it, which I find a bit goofy.

Money has become a blurred object to me now, I just want this rifle to be done haha... And it never will be.

Hotwheels81 · #4 03-05-2013, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToXicXxX

Because if it goes on and I deicide I don't like it, then it's got a horrible colar on the barrel. I found one that looks almost the same but uses the threads then screws to lock it down, and it's made in Canada. This also may sound stupid, but I never noticed the badger says "front towards enemy" on it, which I find a bit goofy.

Money has become a blurred object to me now, I just want this rifle to be done haha... And it never will be.

It should just come off with a good nudge on a tight fitting wrench... If your smith put loc-tite on it then slap him around a bit next time you see him.

It takes some serious commitment to have a taper cut behind the threads for a brake.... But this one turned my 300WM into a kitten... No regrets.

ToXicXxX · #5 03-05-2013, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotwheels81

It should just come off with a good nudge on a tight fitting wrench... If your smith put loc-tite on it then slap him around a bit next time you see him.

It takes some serious commitment to have a taper cut behind the threads for a brake.... But this one turned my 300WM into a kitten... No regrets.

See I like that brake, but I like the very serious "mil-spec" look. So I don't like writing or anything unless it's a model number or lot number. The one im looking at now is from Coretac solutions.

Hotwheels81 · #6 03-05-2013, 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToXicXxX

See I like that brake, but I like the very serious "mil-spec" look. So I don't like writing or anything unless it's a model number or lot number. The one im looking at now is from Coretac solutions.

I know what your saying... But I will make concessions for pure function and this brake lets you use a x24 power optic at 100M and hold within 2" of the bullseye during recoil with a .308 shooting 168gr GMM in a standard milspec 700... Besides a good machinist can erase any lettering that bugs you

The badger you have is a nice brake...

If you want something simple and Canadian the check out PGW... Tere muzzle devices are very VERY "milspec"

ToXicXxX · #7 03-05-2013, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotwheels81

I know what your saying... But I will make concessions for pure function and this brake lets you use a x24 power optic at 100M and hold within 2" of the bullseye during recoil with a .308 shooting 168gr GMM in a standard milspec 700... Besides a good machinist can erase any lettering that bugs you

The badger you have is a nice brake...

If you want something simple and Canadian the check out PGW... Tere muzzle devices are very VERY "milspec"

I don't even want to know how much it would cost to take the surface off of that brake and refinish it. 2 weeks without my gun and $150 was already enough to bug me...

Canadian is no big deal, but not deforming my barrel is. I also looked at that german brand of clamp on brakes.

Looking at that I just realized "well poop, I could have bought a coyote".

Hotwheels81 · #8 03-05-2013, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToXicXxX

I don't even want to know how much it would cost to take the surface off of that brake and refinish it.

Canadian is no big deal, but not deforming my barrel is. I also looked at that german brand of clamp on brakes.

Well the brake alone was around $250... To cut 1mm off the face would be about $60 and then the duracoat colour of your choice... Cheap

DON'T BUY A CLAMP ON.... Tell ya what... Go over to CGN, I believe the fellas name was gunboy, he should be able to help you out.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum...y+muzzle+brake

ToXicXxX · #9 03-05-2013, 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotwheels81

Well the brake alone was around $250... To cut 1mm off the face would be about $60 and then the duracoat colour of your choice... Cheap

DON'T BUY A CLAMP ON.... Tell ya what... Go over to CGN, I believe the fellas name was gunboy, he should be able to help you out.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum...y+muzzle+brake

My brake was $165, definitely not 250! Why no clamp on?

Hotwheels81 · #10 03-06-2013, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToXicXxX

My brake was $165, definitely not 250! Why no clamp on?

By clamp on I think your referring to the type that is sold as a "no gun smithing" install... They can cause finish wear on the barrel and really if your tube is threaded then just use what you already have... You can use peel washers instead of a crush washer to index your brake too... Less obvious then a crush washer anyway...

Cortacs brakes are built by grizzly gunworks from what I have been told...

My next precision rifle will be a coyote.... Maybe

ToXicXxX · #11 03-06-2013, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotwheels81

By clamp on I think your referring to the type that is sold as a "no gun smithing" install... They can cause finish wear on the barrel and really if your tube is threaded then just use what you already have... You can use peel washers instead of a crush washer to index your brake too... Less obvious then a crush washer anyway...

Cortacs brakes are built by grizzly gunworks from what I have been told...

My next precision rifle will be a coyote.... Maybe

They are indeed built by them. Im hearing that it's a decent brake

Why do I care about the finish if it's covered?

If you know of a smith in Calgary that will take the words of my badger and mount it for... Not a small fortune then do tell

That clamp on uses the threads by the way, you just tighten it down to time it, instead of using a washer. So it's pretty much a thread on, the clamping just times it

Funny how that guy keeps talking about recoil. I wasn't aware 308 had recoil

Hotwheels81 · #12 03-06-2013, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToXicXxX

They are indeed built by them. Im hearing that it's a decent brake

Why do I care about the finish if it's covered?

If you know of a smith in Calgary that will take the words of my badger and mount it for... Not a small fortune then do tell

That clamp on uses the threads by the way, you just tighten it down to time it, instead of using a washer. So it's pretty much a thread on, the clamping just times it

If your barrel is a parkerized finish the clamp will "bruise" the finish... If/when you take it off you will see the mark... If its a stainless tube then it should be ok... But be gentle when putting it on and taking it off... Clean clean clean.

Hmmmm a smith in cowtown that won't rape you on the install... I don't think your gunna find one... Most of them are booked solid for the next few months from what I am hearing on here and gun nutz...

You can try Coralaines in Dawson creek, they did my rebarrel and supplied the big chubby... My tube had to be cut to zero taper under the clamp to fit my brake... I know grizzly can take your barrel taper measurement and bore there brake to fit a taper...

ToXicXxX · #13 03-06-2013, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotwheels81

If your barrel is a parkerized finish the clamp will "bruise" the finish... If/when you take it off you will see the mark... If its a stainless tube then it should be ok... But be gentle when putting it on and taking it off... Clean clean clean.

Hmmmm a smith in cowtown that won't rape you on the install... I don't think your gunna find one... Most of them are booked solid for the next few months from what I am hearing on here and gun nutz...

You can try Coralaines in Dawson creek, they did my rebarrel and supplied the big chubby... My tube had to be cut to zero taper under the clamp to fit my brake... I know grizzly can take your barrel taper measurement and bore there brake to fit a taper...

I'll just try out this one, maybe I'll learn my lesson some day.... I'm getting quite the muzzle brake collection these days... The ATRS one was just plain bad.

Hotwheels81 · #14 03-06-2013, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToXicXxX

I'll just try out this one, maybe I'll learn my lesson some day.... I'm getting quite the muzzle brake collection these days... The ATRS one was just plain bad.

Really? What was so bad about it?

ToXicXxX · #15 03-06-2013, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotwheels81

Really? What was so bad about it?

It was like attaching a megaphone to my gun. No felt kick reduction, no felt climb reduction. But my buddy spotting for me sure as hell noticed it.

To be clear this was a thread on brake with a crush washer, not one of their fancy brakes. I have no doubt those work well.