[brendan's dad]

If I recall a previous post of yours you purchased a bowmaster press? Did you build yourself a draw board? Very easy, with a 2x4, threaded 3/4" plumber pipe 6" longs, base plate for the plumber pipe, and a cheap hand boat winch. (youtube or Archery Talk DIY section.)

1. Max out your limb bolts

2. Measure for factory specs and adjust as necessary (Youtube)

3. Set center shot at 13/16

4. Run bottom of arrow through center of berger hole set nock height at 1/16 to 1/8 high (Youtube)

5. Set desired draw weight with equal turns out of the limb bolts.

6. Check timing for cable stops (Draw Board).

7. Check cam pre-lean. Lay an arrow along the the left side of the top cam (right hand shooter). The tip of the field point should touch the middle of the string at the center of your d-loop. Add twist to the required yoke legs to adjust cam lean at rest (youtube)

8. Shoot thru paper. Adjust up/down tears first by micro adjusting your rest. Then correct left/right tears by yoke tuning. Right tear, add twist to right leg. Left tear, add twist to left leg. You do not need to remove a twist from the left if you add 1 to the right. But if you add more than 3 full twist from factory set to 1 leg, than start removing twist from the alternate leg.

Yoking tuning allows you to put the string directly in line with the natural power stroke of the bow. Bows without yokes need to "shim" the cams left or right to achieve the same results

9. Once you have a bullet hole, strip the fletching of an arrow and repeat step 8 with a bare shaft. Once you get a bullet hole bare shaft, go shoot a fletched and bare shaft and 20 yards and see the results.

10. If none of this works, then it might be your draw length or d-loop length. Lengthing your d-loop or draw length can clean up a right tear for a right handed shooter.


And most important, if you get frustrated or tired, take a break and come back tomorrow.