Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNewGuy
I also have a BLR takedown (BLR Lt Wt) stainless/laminated, bought in 2012. Had a heck of a time dialing it in, until I (1) installed a Leupold EER (Extended Eye Relief) 2.5X scope to the barrel so it wouldn't need adjusting if I took it down for storage or transport with a receiver-mounted scope, and (2) played with the load development a lot more than usual.
I finally settled on a bit under 46Gr of IMR4064 with a 150 grain Interlock, and my groups tightened up considerably, between .9" and 1.5" @ 100. Interesting thing about my rifle is that the first two shots group tight, but 99% of the time the third shot from a still-warm barrel would always be a flyer, running perhaps .75" to 1.25" further out from the first two shots impact point. For hunting purposes, though, this works for me.
And, yeah, the trigger isn't great (it's "liveable" since this is my back up rifle when I'm at the camp with my 444S Marlin).
O.N.G.
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The take down feature is an issue in maintaining POI. It wasn't in the good old days when we used barrel mounted open sights, but with receiver mounted scopes or peeps it is. You see this on the Browning semi- Auto 22s as well. That said, the barrel lockup is pretty tight on a BLR, so it should not affect the groups, just where they hit after you take it apart. Now I have never seen a take down lever that grouped quite as good as the exact copy in non-take down model. Blaser, Heym, Mannlicher take down bolt guns group great but they are a whole different animal.
My advice remains the same as what I posted earlier, Make sure the butt stock is properly fitted to the gun, that the barrel is glassed fully to the forearm and that the forearm to action joint is perfectly mated or shaved so it is stress free. Getting the trigger cleaned up helps a bunch too, but realistically, even after modification, if you can get one to shoot 1.5" consistently that is about the best you can regularly hope for.