Quote:
Originally Posted by CDNOutdoorsman
Hi gang, I was wondering what the largest size spruce tree could be to be moved with a tree spade that gives the tree the best chance of survival. I have a few large (15+ foot) spruce in my back yard that I would like to move to the front for more privacy. Im on an average so room isn't an issue, I just wanted to know if these trees would survive. Also when would be a good time to move them if its possible. Its a bit soggy now so I don't want to rut up the yard. Anyone have any experience with moving large spruce? Or is the limiting factor the size of the unit to move them. I would think a payloader with a spade will be needed, don't think a skid steer will be big enough.
thanks for any insight.
CDN
|
Hi there CDNOutdoorsman. Here are my recomendations.
1.) Wait until October. Spruce are tough, but you have to give them the best chance possible from a seasonal perspective.
2.) Spend this growing season nurturing them. Lots of water and a high nitrogen content fertilizer like 12-6-4 should prep them for transplant.
3.) Given the fact that your trees are 15'+ tall, the bigger the spade the better. Spruce surface root and the most important ones are the furthest beyond the canopy. The rule of thumb is a 10:1 ratio. A 3" diameter trunk needs a minimum 30" diameter spade. At 15'+, you'll require a machine that's 70" or better. This is critical.
4.) Laying down some cheap plywood to set the plugs on will make backfilling the transplant holes much easier.
5.) Once transplanted in the fall, try and drown the buggers. Saturated soil locks the root system into a block of ice for the winter. This immunizes the tree in a way from variable winter temperatures in the chinook belt. I've had plants bud here in Calgary mid winter, only to be hammered by winter's return.
6.) 10-52-10. Find it. Use it. Its a water soluable powder fertilizer. Mix as per directions. Its focus is primarily on root growth, which is what you want after transplanting. Pour it out about a foot or so from the edge of the spade cut. This will encourage the roots the begin spreading out.
7.) It's also good idea to find a way to mechanically stabilize the trees. Three point contact via stakes and heavy gauge wire. Cushion the trunk contact though. Loose around the trunk to prevent girdeling. Doesn't need to be tight. Movement is a good thing for new root development.
Finally...
8.) As much as EZM considers himself an esteemed horticulturist, I'd avoid his advice. He seems to believe that a pest that infests the leaves on your spruce will result in a worm from Idaho doing something bad to your bag????
Good luck!
Tree