Yes you need to remove the wood from the gun. I strip with Circa 1850 but it is hard to find the older stuff. The new environmental friendly stuff does not work as well.
I use a soft brass brush to assist on the checkering and an abrasive cleaning type media on the main wood.
Once the finish is removed the dents and scratches can some times be lifted with a damp cloth and an iron. You need to be patient and careful not to taint the wood colour.
If the scratches are too deep some sanding is necessary. Unfortunately if a stain was applied at the factory it can be very hard to bring back the spot. A person can lightly sand all surrounding areas to blend. Failing that, you can sometimes draw the stain out with some acetone.
Once you are happy with the stripping and repairs you can add stain if you like or start with oil. Be certain the stain you use is not part of a poly blend as you want it to absorb.
The same thing applies to the oil. The first many coats should be a natural oil that absorbs and protects the wood. I like Tung Oil but the real stuff without a poly hardener is hard to find and the advertising is misleading. I have also use boiled Linseed with good results. I often thin with mineral spirits to ensure proper absorption into the wood.
After I am happy with the look (several weeks usually) I switch to an oil with a poly hardener for the final finish. I use Tru-oil which ironically isn't a true oil or Minwax Tung Oil which also isn't a true oil. Both have hardener and harden nicely. They are quite durable and easily repaired down the road if need be.
I am in the middle of doing a nice old Parker Hale in 303. Lots of work but worth the effort.
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