when it comes to releases most wrist straps are a single sear design. Higher end thumb activated releases have a double sear system.
In a single sear the trigger is attached to the sear, and in a double sear the sear is activated by a strong spring that the trigger pulls a secondary sear out of the way to let the spring activate the release which is why they have to be cocked.
There are some wrist releases out there with a double sear system and that is what I use. I also have a wrist strap resistance activated back tension as well. (not a hinge) that I use for practice.
The advantage of a double sear system is you can set the trigger for consistent tension and there are two adjustments one for travel and the other for tension. single sear the adjustment adjusts both. the trigger tensions also changes according to how hard you pull at full draw.
To activate a trigger release it is as mentioned above. Proper draw length, consistent trigger pull and travel allows consistent activation through back tension... I lock my finger around the trigger and "stretch" my arrow through trying to press my pin into the target while maintaining a consistent increase in "pull" this action also creates a stronger aim and alignment with less pin float until execution. But you have to be confident in your shot, if you have any doubts your subconscious wont let it happen...
That is why the "trigger less" are effective to teaching proper shot execution. There is only one way to get them to release and that is through smooth execution... not saying you cant punch a hinge release (I can do it). and people hate them at first because they don't allow another option. Once you get it then I transfer back to the trigger again.
I have used a Carter Like Mike for Years and the Back Strap for practice or if I need a tune-up. I used an evolution before that for practice. Now I hunt and shoot target with either.
Lefty Canuck is absolutely correct
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