[KegRiver]

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

So i shot a coyote the other day, I usually give my pelts to the local guy whose family can use the extra cash, and to see them not go to waste. This one I hung him later that day and skinned him, more to see the bullet fragmentation on the 204 Vmax.

Then I thought I should throw him on the adjustable wood stretcher, to not let the hide go to waste. Yes, I know fleshing is done at this time.

Skinning and taxidermy things are like the oil patch, there are different terminologies that describe the same thing, leaving the inexperienced in the dark and this is my chance to ask and hopefully it will answer allot of questions for me, and rather than ask 1 question here and there I thought I would throw them all together, and some other guys that are wondering the same thing, may see value. My next goal is to have a sticky on this board LOL The direct questions I have asked are underlined for easy reference. If you see any thing else to add please do so if it is relevant.

A lot of what you are asking for is better taught, hands on, but I'll see what I can do for you.
First, a lot depends on what you intend to do with your pelt. (Coyote hide)

There are different requirements and different procedures for a hide that will be sold as a dried pelt, then one that will be used for taxidermy and again for one that will be tanned for immediate use or display.

I will deal mostly with pelts intended for sale as dried pelts as that is what I have the most experience with.

A word here about fleshing a Coyote pelt. A Coyote is one of the harder pelts to flesh because the hide is thin and easily torn. Relative to other pelts.

For drying for sale as raw fur, it is only necessary to remove the larger patches of flesh and fat. You do not need to get it all.
Always work from the head toward the tail, with the grain of the fur.
A fleshing bone or dull knife, or even a old kitchen spoon is best for this purpose, On Coyote hides. Other hides require a more aggressive approach.

It is best to wipe off any oils that appear during drying. Paper towels work well for this.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

What is this process called with a pelt on the stretcher? Just "drying" the pelt?

Drying is the more common term. Some refer to it as curing the pelt.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

I have read different readings on the net,Should the tail be split with a guthook knife, or is this not necessary? If it is, is it only required for tanning, not "drying"?

The tail should be split for drying or for immediate tanning. If the pelt is going to a taxidermist the tail may be left unsplit and the pelt frozen.

The reason the tail is split is to allow proper drying. If you don't split the tail it is very likely that portions of it will not dry properly which will lead to spoilage and hair loss, reducing the value and appearance of the pelt.

As far as using a guthook, I have never used one. I find that my regular skinning knife is sufficient, however, a guthook may be easier for a novice to use for this task.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

Ear cartilage, again mixed reviews on this, flesh as much as possible and skin as high as you can, or split. The best is?

Again, the intended purpose has a large bearing on what you do with the ears. For a dried pelt, to be sold as raw fur, you would cut off as much cartilage as you can, easily. No need for extensive fleshing here, just remove any larger pieces of flesh or fat.

As with splitting the tail, the goal here is to prevent spoilage.

For immediate tanning for a throw or rug, leave as much cartilage as you can and remove as much flesh and fat as you can. Here you want the cartilage to keep the ears erect as much as possible, while reducing the possibility of spoilage.

For taxidermy, leave as much cartilage as you can and remove only the larger pieces of flesh and fat.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

Salting the pelt, should this be done for drying, storing in the freezer or not at all? I have heard mixed reviews on this one too,, as one guy i know said to not salt at all, for freezer storage. this to me makes kind of makes sense, as in the freezer at -23C, salt lowers the freezing point of water, which delays the freezing, and keeps the pelt warm, which of course allows the bacteria to survive longer, giving the hair more chance to slip. But i do know salt removes moisture, and acts as a preservative. So salt or no salt?

Salting is done to extend the storage time for a pelt that will be tanned locally or stored for later taxidermy.

Do not salt a hide that will be sold as raw fur. Raw fur is used mostly in the garment industry and apparently the garment industry tanning process has problems with salted hides.

If the pelt is to be frozen until processed salt should be unnecessary and could complicate the tanning process. Best avoid using salt on hides that will be frozen.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

I skinned a coyote years ago with my grandfather, after fleshing it we put it on a solid (non adjustable board, which didn't let the air dry the fur, after about 4 days(if i remember,)he told me to flip the hide and let the fur be out. i did this and this cased hide turned out good. I am guessing that this flipping technique is not required with the adjustable stretcher now, is this correct? Other than the adjustable factor of this stretcher i made is it better for that reason?

A split stretcher (adjustable) is always better then a single board for larger pelts. Fox or larger.
And as you suspected, the main reason is better drying.

About flipping (also called turning) the hide.
Most larger animal pelts, Fisher, Fox, Coyote, and Wolf are sold fur side out.

For the fastest drying, these pelts should be first stretched flesh side out and allowed to dry until the flesh side feels dry to the touch. About 12 to 24 hours. The pelt is then removed from the stretcher and turned fur side out before placing it back on the stretcher.
It would then be allowed to dry for another 24 to 48 hours, until it crackles when flexed. It is then ready for market.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

How long does a "dried" case skinned fur last for, will it rot, or be ate by bugs if not tanned and boraxed? If shelf life is limited, how long would it be and what is required, tanning?

The pelt will keep well for about six months, if kept dry. After about six months a slight yellowing will be noticeable and fur buyers will discount such pelts. However it will take 2 to 4 years for serious pelt deterioration to occur.

The hide will not rot so long as it is kept dry, however, after a few years the fur will loosen and fall out. If the hide is not tanned before that occurs.

Hair slippage can become a problem in as little as 12 months. But total loss should take several years.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

Will just Boraxing keep the pelt in a dried state and bug free if it was just hung on the wall like that?

I have never tried it but it is my understanding that yes, Borax will preserve the pelt over a much longer term. However, I was told that tanners hate working with a hide that has been treated with Borax.
I'm not sure why.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

So with this dried cased pelt, to tan it at a later date, what is required to do that, resoak it and throw it in the tanning solution?

Yes. LOL nothing else to say, that's all there is to it.

Originally Posted by 220 Swift

So living in the "sticks" doesnt give me a lot of options on buying a tanning kit from a store. I see on the net there are different home brews for tanning a hide with brain, and house hold chemicals, or at least easy to get chemicals, from a grocery store, or Walmart. Does any one know these or do they even work?


Thanks in advance, i know there are more questions too, which of course will be asked at a later date.

They work, but I prefer to use a product called,





I get mine via mail order.