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Old 08-25-2019, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Sundancefisher View Post
Good notes. 3M said to the contractor that the tape used should not be left longer than 5 days as the glue cures over time, changes the adhesive properties and can bond more.

This is likely the old oil based product however the guy that looked and though a buff and reapplication thought the floor was in great shape.

This would be the first ever sanding done since the hardwood was applied he figured.

Is the new water based product just as good as the old oil based product? Can you apply the water based product over top of an oil based product?
The tape, even with the glue curing, should not lift the finish IF the finish is in good shape. If the finish was in good shape the worst that should have happened is that the glue would stick to the floor.

So. with the tape out of the discussion.

Some water based finishes claim they can be applied to an oil finish. Have the contractor confirm with the manufacturer.

I am cautious of many claims from floor products as so many of them are brand new, and make claims that are not proven in the real world. There have been quite a few New Best Ever flooring coatings that turned out to be complete failures, especially some of the new epoxies.

Back to analysing the problem

Imagine a book, several pages long. The old finish on your floor is like the book, containing several coats, or pages which are supposed to be glued together. On your floor these pages are loose in places. Glue another page on the top page, and the previous pages are still loose. If the old finish peeled at the wood, moisture coming from beneath the floor might be the cause. It the old finish is peeling from itself, improper prep between coats is likely the issue

Pinholes or loose finish to the wood when recoated can blister due to moisture, oils or water becoming trapped between the wood and the old finish (or between layers of the old finish) which are now sealed in by the new top coat. Any temperature change will cause expansion/contraction of the liquids/gases trapped in these layers.

If you go the sand and recoat route, regardless of oil or water, you will still have the potential for blistering and peeling problems. You won't find out until after the work is done.
Personally, in a bathroom, I would go oil based.


You have some stand up contractors willing to repair damage that is not their fault.
Maybe take your chances on a buff and recoat and wait to go the more expensive and greater guarantee of long term quality with a full refinish if problems arise.
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