Quote:
Originally Posted by CNP
Andrew. If the scope is not level the only accurate point of reference on the scope will be the centre of the horizontal and vertical hash marks and only for the distance you zeroed it for. If the scope is not level and you are shooting at a distance that is greater than the distance you sighted it in there will be an ever increasing error in horizontal accuracy. The greater the distance the greater the accuracy error horizontally. If the scope is not level the vertical line will not be under the barrel. Canting the rifle does not fix that. Canting does nothing except to rotate the entire rifle/scope setup. The further the scope is off from being horizontally level, the further your horizontal accuracy will be affected. Look at the reticles again in post #42. Look at the crooked reticle. Draw a vertical line from the crosshair to the 600 yard crosshair. You cannot. The line will not be vertical. Since the crosshair is set in the middle of the barrel, the 600 yard crosshair is obviously not. You can't change that by canting the barrel. The scope and the barrel follow each other when you cant the rifle. Those are the facts. You get it now? This and the link I gave you, please understand.
|
The scope is level. The rifle is canted. The scope needs to be level, the rifle does not. This is why levels go on Scopes and not on rifles. If I mount a scope on my rifle and it is canted left and I then proceed to put a level on the scope that is perfectly level to the crosshairs that scope is now level. If I take that scope off the rifle with the level still attached and you mount it on a rifle that is canted right and zero it that scope, when level to the target, will still track correctly and you will hit you 1000 yard target.