Quote:
Originally Posted by AlbertanGP
Oh I agree. .063" is plenty for a small tin boat. I was just pointing out in the discussion of double plating Lunds that it doesn't make sense to double plate an entire hull when you could just step up to a larger gauge and form it from one sheet. Lund just does it on the bow because, well, a lot of Lund owners are first time boat owners and maybe not the sharpest tools in the shed out on the water. Case in point. My first boat was a Lund and I came in a little hot (ok a lot hot) to my parents dock at Baptiste and speared the first 2X4 with the cast aluminum nose cap, snapping it in two. That's how I learned boats don't have brakes many years ago.  |
All the IPS2 hulls (for Lunds larger boats) have the two layer thing in (at least) the front half of the boat. I think 2013 (the model year of my boat) was the last year they did a full double plate (mine is double all the way back) as seen by where the sheet and double rivet seams go. (at least on the TYEE)
I think they use 2 sheets now because they have to carry "one less thickness" in their roll stock AND the product process allows the sheets to be cut, stacked and broken then riveted much faster.
The construction methods and design structure for Alumacrafts, Crestliners, Lunds (some welded some rivetted) are excellent and you find very few problems with them compared to other brands out there. For a small tin production boat, hard to beat these brands.
I laughed at your "learned boats don't have brakes" thing …….. yup …….. seems like most of us did lots of "learning" the same way I did ….. lol … I can relate.
Nobody told me a tin boat was no good for white water ….. after all, it seemed to work just fine for us.
