senneker snare pieces for wolves?
 

I want to use the senneker power snares for wolves this winter, but I'm not sure what peices to get?


I know you can get away with thinner cable, but I'm not sure how thin? 5/64's?

What cable type, 1x19, 7x7 or??

Which spring/lock do I need?

Do I still need swivels with a senneker power snare?


For senneker coyote snares I found anchoring low was a lot better than the traditional high anchor. I'm guessing with using senneker power snares for wolves I'd continue using low anchor points? How long of snare for wolves if I'm anchoring low?

Sorry, 750lbs breakway?

And which spring for wolves?

call marty

I would rather get opinions of people who aren't selling the product. No offense to Marty

.

This..pretty sure he won't steer you in the wrong direction

He will sell you the right stuff .

If you already want his product why would he sell you one that isn’t suited to your needs?

You will probably run 5/64 1x19. Magnum spring. Modified cam lock. 750 lb breakaway. 3/32 7x7 leads with a wolf swivel.

That being said I have no idea I’ve never snared a wolf in my life, but I think this is ball park. Marty knows best ask him.

I get what everyone is saying to call Marty... I've dealt with Marty multiple times and I didn't find them to be very informative at all. You can search my user name to see some of my frustrations with him if you like.


I'm not trying to start a fight in anyway, but if you use Marty's spring system for wolves I'd like to hear how you use it and what components you use.

Thanks

I prefer to use 3/32" 1x19, 750lb break away for Moose. Heavy swivel, either 3/32" leash, but prefer 1/8". Use a modified cam, and magnum spring and trigger. This set up will put them down fast. If you are snaring where they will get tangled up, this system may not be the best. They need to pull this at length and then fire the spring. Of note, anchor low, and use a 10' total length system max.
If you decide to NOT go with magnum springs, use a much shorter system and plan for entanglement. Anchor high in this case.

Spruce

Can't please everybody, but I try.

Treeroot, I suggest you go enroll in a one day ATA snare course. From reading your posts it looks like a little brush up on construction, wire size, snare terminology might help? Like I don't think there is a canine in the world that will snap/break a 5/16" cable, and there are no snare locks that fit that size. It won't hurt your cause and you will be able to ask questions and get a little one on one time. And if you ever want to buy a line, that is if you don't have one yet, the bios apparently look favourably on applicants that have taken all the courses.

Thanks tips... I see your still a treat.

I don't need to brush up on anything, just want to know what else is out there.

I have caught a couple wolves on 3/32 with senneker kill springs. They are a good addition with any setup. I also have coyotes in my wolf area so I have lost a couple wolves because I used too light of a s hook\ breakaway but this year I will be using 750s in that area. A problem that marty pointed out to me at a rendevous is that there is a live side and a dead side to the spring so dont set the trigger on the live/main spring side because it doesnt twist and release all of the time. Im sure this will lead to quicker kills and way more springs being triggered.

Wish it was easier to paste pictures on this site but not the end, the rounded side where the spring ends, where it is bent back to the main spring.If you try to bend one with pliers youll see what i mean

Do you have a picture you could email me or text to me? I will post it here for everyone.

Every time I asked Marty for advice he has gone out of his way to be helpful

I'm sure many people have good interactions with him, I had multiple that were very unhelpful and a few no returned phone calls and messages.

Either way, I'd rather this thread not be about Marty and more about getting information about wolf snare options.

The loop has three basic sides:
- top
- live/active
-dead/ in-active

The live side of the loop continues down to the spring body, thus is the side that is the continuation of the spring arm, therefore is the spring arm, this side is live/active.

The dead side of the loop is the side that the spring wire comes to an end. This side simply closes the loop. Dead side - side that wire comes to end. Does not impact the spring energies.

There is a picture of this on our newer labels on our Magnum spring packages. I'll try to get an image up here for you.

When all's said and done, you want the loop to flex once the trigger is clipped, this ensures positive firing virtually every time, even on red fox.

Bottom of page. I believe that the theory is that the wire end of the loop has more give than anywhere else the trigger can be placed on the loop.

https://www.martysenneker.com

https://image.ibb.co/cBmC9U/Label_2.png

10 o'oclock... Super!

9 o'clock very good too.

12 o'clock too tough.

6 o'clock too touchy.

Oh ya, I forgot to mention, at 3:00 it will not fire.

No 3:00

No 6:00

What an excellent picture!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQORcHVNzxw

So is Rich's explanation wrong? skip to 4:50

Looks that way ..

I wish that I was a physicist because all of this has really had me wondering for awhile now. :confused:

If a torsion Spring exerts 200(?) lbs Force when compressed and held in place with a trigger devise, and a coyote exerts 201 lbs Force to compress it further causing the pressure to be released from the trigger holding the Spring compressed, The Spring should release.......no?

I get that there may be a bit of give at the end of the loop but is it sufficient to make a huge difference? After all, the pressure on the trigger is equal at both ends, the end that releases and the end that remains on the snare, so why would the 9 o’clock position work better than the 3 o’clock position? Would the open end of the loop not give as much regardless of if it’s the releasing end or the end that remains on the snare? I could understand if the end of the wire in the loop was on the same side but no matter where you position the trigger you’re going to get an equal amount of force required on the Spring in order to release the trigger.

I feel an unscientific experiment coming on.......it involves a bathroom scale to determine the Force exerted by the compressed spring and a luggage scale to determine the Force required for the trigger to release in in each position. :lol: