Boat transom replacement
 

I just purchased a larger outboard for my 16' Misty River aluminum boat to max out its HP rating and want to rebuild the transom as it has a little bow in it. After researching online I see it don't look to bad of a job to do but would rather have it done by someone who knows what they are doing and not just a YouTube certified guy like myself. So with that, Is there any individual or small shop in Edmonton that would be able to tackle this job at a reasonable price?

I would start phoning the boat dealers like Riverside. Get price, or referral and work from there. Explorer Industries makes boats from scratch in Edmonton. They are great guys and would be someone I would definitely be tapping for information, they may even be willing to do the work.

aluminum boat repair
 

I used Monster Marine in Sherwood Park a few years ago to rebuild the punctured and bent transom on a Sylvan 17'. Was very pleased with the result. Worth giving them a call

I'd trust recreational power sports. I did my boat which is an inboard. For mine it was a Mercruiser with a thickness of 2-2.25 inches thick. I used epoxy with cabosil used to make a peanut butter with 3 sheets of marine plywood epoxied together and coated in epoxy. Any bolts going through the hull should be coated in 4200 or something along those lines.

You could use your old wood as a template after pulling it to cut the sheets and do some basic work or farm it out to them. Probably way less trouble as it's an outboard.

Might be a bad time of year to get into such a project, but it is doable. I did it on a 17.5 Sylvan.

What is critical is that you get the proper plywood. Do not think you can use treated plywood as the ACQ eats aluminum.

I had to redo the carpet floor anyways so stripped the whole boat apart.

What you will quickly learn is how cheap Boat Builders really are. Your Transom is 3 sheets of 3/4 inch plywood in most cases. the transom cap is just thin sheet metal.

If you are up to the project, try to do better and get some 1/2 inch by 4 inch aluminum and fit it to the width of the transom. Where the motor bolts to the Top of the transom router out a space and put the aluminum plate into the wood bedded with Silicone INSIDE the transom plate.

Where the motor bolts on the bottom of the transom, put the aluminum plate on the OUTSIDE of the Transom plate. Outboards PUSH from the Bottom, and PULL from the top. With proper reinforcing plates, the forces are spread across the transom and the flex is taken out of the transom.

But if this job is too big, see if you can locate Darren at AQUA Marine.

Drewski

I popped off my corner and center cap this afternoon and took a good look at things. It really doesn't look that bad of a job to do on this boat. I do notice it was previously done judging by the screws in place of rivets. The marine plywood is readily available at Windsor plywood for $200 a sheet. Im guessing it might cost me $350 and a half day of time. So think I'll put my YouTube education to use.

Done this job a few times on various boats and it takes some time. If you are thinking half a day plan for the weekend. Really not a bad job take your time and do it right. Recreational power sports in Edmonton is terrific to deal with and will lead you in the right direction. They should have all the items you need and the advice. Good luck with the job !!!

If you want to take a crack at it check out iboats.com on the restoration forum. There will be every transom done under the sun in there with pics.

The staff are great there, I plan on talking Aundreas probably tomorrow. He helped me out when I did the front deck

Boat craft in Edmonton will have the marine ply cheaper then Windsor.Also all the epoxy/glass.

Since we have led you down this rabbit hole, you also will need a good aluminum fab outfit for the Transom cap, etc. If this boat was ever in salt water, it will have alot of corrosion when you start pulling things apart.

I have over the years used 4bees Metal Products off of Argyll Road. They have fabed up frames for hatch doors, the hatch doors, stainless steel grab rails, transom top plates, etc.

Use STAINLESS STEEL fasteners only. Make sure you understand cold welding on stainless hardware, as it can become permanent very fast. Use some rtv silicone on the threads or Locktite.

While you have the engine off, consider changing out the steering cable for a fresh one, and put in no feed back steering.

PM if you have any questions.

Drewski

Might of taken a couple days to get it VERY well painted. But it was a couple hours to pull out the old one use it as a template and cut out a new one. I then set it in place drilled out the holes i needed, and spent the next week painting it with marine paint, also made sure to get a good amount of paint into the holes.