more bullet info
 

I missed one good bullet mfgr for sure;

http://www.northforkbullets.com/magento/

cast bullet info sources
 

If you are interested in making/casting your own bullets, this is the best site of all to read first; After reading the Lyman cast bullet handbook; and the RCBS cast bullet handbook.

http://www.lasc.us/



After that, the silver stream erupts into a flood of info on these sites;

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forum.php?

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/

Using unverified load data
 

There is a reason for warnings against unverified load data from various sources.
While many are valid loads, and are possibly usable, it is best to check with a powder or bullet mfgr before ever loading them, if it is an unpublished load. Hodgdon is better to phone, most others will answer e-mails. Many mfgrs have unpublished data, but, verified data, that they will give you, with the usual disclaimer of responsibilty, it will probably work, it might not work in your gun.
This may help give some insight as to why there are all these variations in load data, and why you need to treat unpublished, unverified data with a very large grain of salt. Even some of the info given in this publication is meant to be taken with a grain of salt;

http://kwk.us/pressures.html

Thanks. It really was a help.

Lots of info here:

http://ultimatereloader.com/

What a great post thanks

A future reloaded here.

Any tips on handgun reloading. I have checked out the Lee progressive ones, look pretty nice and simple to use once they're set up.

Thank for any advice.

The lee turret presses are about the only one I would consider ever trying... And that's if I found it at a yard sale new in the box for $20...

Sorry but i had a really bad experience with a loadmaster before I bought my Dillon... The Dillon has been perfect... The loadmaster was a fiddley pain in my ass.

Load experience
 

I've been loading my own for many years, both rifle and hand gun. It's been my experience that you never need to go to max loads. As an example, I've tried a variety of loads (powders) in my 30/06 and 243. I've found that as you step up from the start loads that at some point around midway from start to max powder charge the accuracy is great and then as you move up the accuracy falls away. I've noticed this in both rifle and handgun rounds. All my favorite loads, I have notes on, the most accurate down range is always somewhere around the middle of the start and max powder charge.
Another plus of not going full bore is your brass will last longer, your firearms will last long, you'll last longer and it's less likely you'll experience pressure problems. That does not mean you should not check for signs of pressure as you fire the rounds.

Ahhhh yes that's some solid advice there...

I have a match rifle here with a SAMMI spec chamber that makes projected velocity at around 1gr under max load, you can push it that extra grain if you wanted but groups open up so there really is no point... If the velocity is there then so is the pressure...

I had a fella over on CGN who was looking for help, seems his .223 rifle shot really really well at 2 whole grains under max and he was genuinely worried about it!... I had to tell him the perc to saving 2grains per shell was he was getting 1 free shell for every 11 that he loaded!! That seemed to abate his fears abruptly!!

loads
 

Let's say you work up a batch of reloads, say 243's, 4/5 rounds of each weight, stepping up 1/2 Gr. at a time. As well as watching for signs of pressure you should also watch what's happening down range on your targets. I've found once I get past the mid range of load weights my shots always start to open up. I don't even bother to going higher then about 3/4's way up to max anymore.
Another point I would make is temperature can have an effect on pressures. Those max loads my be fine the day you shoot them put what do they look like with a 30 degree temperature swing.
If you want 300 Win Mag performance buy a 300, don't try to load our poor old 30/06 to try and get it. At some point it's going to show you how much it doesn't like the abuse.

Someone mentioned that there are very few safe shortcuts. One tool that can aid in finding problems early ie: kind of a short cut, is a Chrony. For a $150.00 it is a worthy investment. It will help you to predict when pressure levels are too high and help compare your load to the load in the book. Different barrels will produce different pressure. A custom barrel often has less or nill free bore and will produce much higher pressure. A chrony will allow you to see how yours compares to the book. Also You Tube has tons of step by step resources form die set up and basic reloading to advanced reloading ie: neck turning, annealing, consentricity etc.

Thanks for this thread HotWheels81 and others. I am thinking of getting into reloading and you all answered alot of my questions. Would be great if a few more people that reload could do something like this.

Cheers

I have general found 2 powder levels to be accurate. One is usually near your start point and one is near your max. Like another AOP said. Use the lower charge amounts. Saves powder, brass and rifle life. Great thread!!

awesome step by step! thank you for making this/.

Cast Bullet Ridges Visible Through Brass
 

After reloading some cast bullets for my peacemaker I noticed I could clearly see the bullets rims under the brass...is it just that Rem. brass is thin? Also Has anyone got some first hand load data for a 357mag cases loaded with trail boss for low velocity rounds....its hard to find the info on it. I bought a chronograph to check my test loads but they wont let me set it up in the indoor ranges :(

I would expect that what you see, is an oversize bullet forced into a normal sized case for a jacketed bullet, it will expand the neck/case to the base of the bullet, and you will see a line at the base. There is some Trailboss data for 357 on Hodgdon website. A search for other data shows a lot of Trailboss info on 357. Main thing with it is, do not compress that powder in it.

very helpful

i have found to save a small mint on reloading thank you guys very very much

best 223 load

i am not sure how to decide the best lead to use any tips

silly questions
 

A long time ago I was training for a new job and the guy that was training me asked if I had any questions. I must have had that trout look on my face and shook my head no. What he said next has stuck with me for over 30 years. He told me that there is no such thing as a stupid question but there are a lot of stupid mistakes to be made, some of which could kill you. Even the most knowledgeable here had to have learned from the start.
I started down this path once years ago and didn't get very far and am now going to go back into it so a thread like this fits the bill for me perfectly. Thanks

help with data
 

I have a question about all the data that is published in the manuals or on line. Can I take the data from the Sierra book and plunk a Berger bullet in place of the Sierra.

This is what I'm looking at: I'm looking at working up some loads for my son and myself for our 222's and picked up a few of those 12 bullet sample packs at the local store, one of which was a Berger 52 grain Match Varmint. Berger doesn't have any data available on line and the local store doesn't have their book. I would like to try these bullets but it is unlikely that I'll get to the city to find the book any time soon. So. Sierra has a listing for a 50/52 grain bullet (their Ballistic Tip, CT Ballistic Tip, Custom Competition, Nosler FBHP and FBSP). Can I use the Berger bullet with this data? I also picked up some 50 and 55 grain Ballistic Tips as well I have some Hornady 50 grain SP. Figured I'd load a bunch and see what works best in either gun. Last time we went to the range I brought four boxes of shell with me thinking that would be plenty and had to buy more!

One other piece - the BC of the Nosler is .220 and the Berger is .197, if that makes a difference.

Ok, they only let you edit once. I wrote Sierra in my question above but meant Nosler. Too many pages open at once...

Long target bullets can be "interesting" to find data for...

I always start with known data for a weight of bullet either identical or slightly higher then seat .010 off the lands with a minamum charge for that weight of bullet then work up in steps around .5gr

I worked up 190gr Nosler CC .308 bullets in my 300wm target rifle using 208gr Amax data and found it very simmilar.

So using the Nosler data I should be ok. They show H322 as the most accurate tested so I thought I'd get some of that and go with their start load of 20.5 grains and work up a couple of steps.

You can edit a post as many times as you please for 30 minutes after it is posted.

Don't put too much faith in that accurate load designation, as the most accurate load tested in one rifle, could be the least accurate load in your rifle.

Don't put too much faith in that accurate load designation, as the most accurate load tested in one rifle, could be the least accurate load in your rifle.

Yeah I know. It just seemed as good a place as any to start. I have some BL-C(2) on hand so I'll use that and pick up a couple others to try. Any suggestions? The rest that I have doesn't show on many charts for the 222. I figured with four different bullets and maybe three powders I should stumble upon something that'll work good.

Take what you can get
 

Well I guess, you gotta take what you can get. The local store didn't have a big selection so I've picked up some IMR4895 and X-Terminator. I'm thinkin', one of those powders (also have some BLC-2) with one of the four bullets will work good.

seating depth
 

The data I'm using calls for a OACL of 2.130. Using your suggestion I would go for 2.120, correct? For comparison I measured a 50 grain Federal that I had on the bench and it was 2.060. Why so short as compared to the data in the book? I haven't filled anything yet, just using unprimed cases to get it all in order. Now I need a bullet puller.....