Reloading for an open sight rifle.
 

Hello everyone, question that I have and can't find anywhere on Google specifically is when you're reloading for an open sight rifle, do you just use a generic load? Fine tune a load to the .5 grain and see how it shoots at 50 yards? Or 75 or 100? Shooter error can be more of the problem farther out since I don't like shooting sleds.

It's just for my deer gun, I only shoot under 100 yards with it anyways, I'm just running out of factory ammo I stocked up on so time to start pressing some. Looking for some opinions, experiences, load data for a Remington 7600 .243 1:9 1/4 twist with a 22" barrel. Thanks in advance.

I zero my open sighted cartridge rifles at 200 yards.
However if you only shoot 100 yards and inside, zero it at 100 and practice at 25 ,50, and 100- and 150!:medium-smiley-035:
Cat

Thanks cat, I knew you'd answer, but just reload typically as if it was for a scoped rifle? Or just do a ladder test to the half grain?

I probably will push it further, 150 will be the target after I reload more.

Hand load the same as you would any other rifle, the sighting system is changed, nothing more.:)
Cat

Iron Sights
 

I want the most accurate ammo I can load using the components I have available and/or wish to use, regardless of the sighting system. Iron sights or scope, it doesn't matter, the more accurate the ammo the better you will shoot it.

Good Luck,
Phil

First, the 7600 has decent accuracy potential. For irons, I would zero at the max distance I could trust my optics for a clean sight picture. For load development, I would consider mounting a scope and benching the rifle.

It brings up a good discussion. Since you can mount a scope on a 7600 quite easily, should you use a scope for the load development? Most people will be more accurate with a scope and determining your optimal load should be easier. After the development is complete, remove the scope and adjust the irons accordingly.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I've tried mounting a scope on it before but it shoots low, like 4" low at 100 yards. I don't want to spend the money on the special shimming rings from Burris I believe. Thanks for clearing the smoke for me guys.

Happy shooting!

Scopes are adjustable, all you have to do is dial up the elevation to achieve the point of impact you are looking for.

There is a 100% fool proof way to solve all your problems. That is to hook up with an experienced shooter/handloader, and get some toutering.

If you care to come out to Drayton Valley I could take that task on.

If you'd indicate your true location, I'm quite confidant you'll get numerous offers of the same, quite close to your location.

I know scopes are all adjustable, not my first time shooting a firearm. I've dealt with this problem twice now with that rifle. I had to shim my scope on it when I had a 3-9x50 on it. Worked fine then I wanted it iron sights again. Then I got a 3-9x40 and figured for fun I'll do it again and scope it. Shimmed it and still maxed out the elevation and was low, shimmed to the max I would want it shimmed and still shot low. Figured I'd leave it iron sight because that's why I bought that rifle.

I was just curious for reloading, I shot it today and felt good, just need time to figure out a load for it after I do this load I'm working on now for my coyote gun.

I wished you'd had explained your issue a bit more completely.

Try turning your scope base end for end.
Or coul,d you have mis matched ring heights?

Do you have the correct scopes base?

,post some pwictures of the set up.

If it shoots 4" low at a 100yrds who cares, all your looking for is good groups on paper .

I have a one piece Leupold standard 7600 base with medium standard Leupold rings. I'm sure I can throw on some weaver base and rings and my problem go away but I am a big fan of Leupold.

I thought about finding a load that is low anyways but I'd rather keep it irons for more practice and for the load I make will be more tuned to iron sights. Just I don't think it's necessary to tune a round to .5 moa then to shoot it irons and shoot 3-6" groups. Especially to shoot a couple deer a year. Reloading for this gun is basically to save some change and be more self reliant.

Ya. Ladder test for length and powder load like normal. Usually in .5 gr increments but sometimes .3

Scope rifles I do 100-200 yards load development

Iron sights it's 50-100 yards ( 50 for my 9.3 and 45-120 , used 100 for the 30/06 M1 garand all with great success). Can't remember what i did for my 357 lever gun way back but I know I defiantly gotta fix / change sight to POI or go back to drawing board.

Cat is one of the resident experts on irons so do as he says ...... 😀

Thanks wolf. That was my plan. Hodgons online with Varget and 105 BTHP shows 31-33 grains of powder so my plan is to run .5 grain and see what it patterns at 50 and then check out 100. Considering what my load I'm developing for my .243 VTR started out at 39-40-41-42 grain and 39-41 grain all grouped basically the same like 3/16" difference so if I go .5 grain ladder I'm sure I'll find the load im looking for. But that's after I get my VTR load developed.

Yeah Cat has been a huge help, that man has a lot of wisdom and knowledge. He's probably forgot more then I know... twice over lol

Do your load(s).
Set up at 25 yards to make sure your touching paper. Adjust to centre, out to 50 and repeat, out to 100 and repeat. Now dial in your pet load that your figure gives you the best grouping. Make sure rifle is rested and attempt to maintain the same sight picture...hard to do with open sights but that's all part of the fun.

For your intended range and purpose find your safe max powder charge and go with it. Unless its just to tinker its gonna shoot good enough for 100yds and under as you stated

I would do everything you would do with a scoped rifle but do it at 50 or 75 yrds first instead of 100. And use a proper target that is easier to use with the sights you have. Like a heavier "V" sitting on top of the bullseye. Or a heavy inverted T. Realizing the sights will cover the bottom half of the target making it hard to aim.

With a "six o'clock" hold, it is not so bad. I use a target that is a bit wider than the sight picture to make it easier to center the post, and leave a "sliver" of space between the top of the post and the bull. Not sure that is what the best advise is ... but works for me.

http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-zknjbi...00.500.jpg?c=2http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/sk...49010323_1.jpg



This is what I would use at 100 yrds. Easy to sight on.

The targets I use depend on the front sight on the rifle I am shooting when it comes to working up a load or zeroing a rifle.
Once the gun is zeroed I do away with the paper targets.
Cat