Need archery help- compound bow draw length
 

Just wanted to ask if a 5lb difference is worth upgrading? I'm currently at about 55lb draw weight and my arrow spine is at that point where if I change my draw weight to 60lb, the arrow won't work anymore. My draw length is at 28.5 inches and not sure if it really is worth trying to go up the 5lb just to change my arrows and resight my bow...

Any help is appreciated !

TIA

100% your call. Arrows are expensive, and 5# won't make that much difference on a 3d course for trajectory. It could have a fairly substantial impact on arrow performance when hunting though, depending on the type of broadhead and shot circumstances.

If you are running low on arrows I would the the plunge. If you don't reLly need new arrows, I would keep shooting the ones you have.

Jmo, Norm

Your draw length has nothing to do with arrow spine. What is your arrow length from throat of nock to end of insert? A 28" 400 spine arrow with 100/ 125 gr tips @ 60# are still compatible. Crank it up and try them.

What arrows and what bow? What arrow length and what weight of broadhead. I have found sometimes depending on the setup you can cheat a bit against what the charts say...or you just try it and see if you can get things to tune ok. Some arrow manufacturers err on the side of stiffer despite what the label on the arrow states. I found once I had some arrows that were supposed to be 350 actually spined out closer to 320-315-ish.

LC

From what I understood since I have 30" arrows due to Cabelas messing up and not cutting them right, they're 30" and not 28". I plan on going back with receipt in hand and telling them to fix it. The bow shop was saying if I have 30" arrows and go up to a 60lb draw with the spine that I currently have which I believe is 400, then I may have issues; according to the chart.

https://www.cabelas.ca/product/42808...w-blazer-vanes

Those are the the arrows I have with Montec G5 100gr broadheads. I have a PSE Stinger bow.

Then you should get them to cut 2" off of the 30" ones they screwed up on, on their dime and crank up your bow the 5# you asked about in the original post. It still has nothing to do with your draw length. It is all about arrow length and draw weight. Not draw length and draw weight.you will almost for sure be good according to the spine chart. If you use a lighted nock it will stiffen the spine even a little more.

Norm

Even though it may not seem like much, I feel better shooting at 55lb and not get as tired, while 60lb after pulling 3 to 4 times gets a bit harder. I think at 55 I am ok, and will be able to put down a whitetail or elk with enough practice and confidence in my shots.

Fair enough, again, your choice. I would still get the arrows fixed though. Personally, I find better arrow flight with an arrow that is a little heavy on the spine side compared to being on the light side. I have had better luck making broadheads fly like that as well. You will also gain 8 to 10 fps which can never be a bad thing for trajectory.

Jmo,
Norm

So I should keep them but just make them shorter?

Based on your bow, draw length, and arrow specifications, OnTarget2 estimates that your current arrows will work up to 60 lbs. Your current arrows at 30" carbon-to-carbon are ideal at your current draw weight of 55 lbs, but if you bump up to 60 lbs, you will technically be slightly under-spined. Cutting your current arrows to 28.0" carbon-to-carbon would get you to the ideal spine rating at 60 lbs.

The Cabela's Stalker Extreme arrows are stated to be rebranded Beman ICS Hunter arrows, however, the spines for the Cabela's 55/70 rating is actually 0.390" and not 0.400". I have tested and verified the spines on about 3 dozen Stalker Extreme arrows and the tolerances and consistency of these arrows is exceptional - don't feel the need to "upgrade" if you decide to shoot 60 lbs without first trying to cut your arrows down a little first if the bow doesn't tune.

My DL is 29" and I run 28 3/8 carbon to carbon and fixed broadheads with plenty of clearance. You are going to have approx 3 to 3 1/2 inches of arrow and 1 inch of broadhead sticking out past your riser.

Do you plan to hunt from a ground blind?

Also, I haven't had anything done at Cabelas since Lawrence left. Do yourself a favor and take the arrows to Jimbows or Accurate Archery and pay the fee to have them cut, at least then you will know they are straight. Also you may need to buy some new inserts as that will be easier than removing and cleaning the current ones. Cabelas at the very least should throw you them for free since it was their screw up.

That's what I would do. Brendan's dad has a similar dl and runs an arrow that will be similar in length to yours and has no issues. Wlou says you would technically be ok, perhaps a little under spined at 60# with the length they are, so if you get them cut you will be marginally stiff at 55# and good for 60#. Quality isn't an issue, so get them made the right length and you should be golden! Being slightly over spined will only (generally)cause you to be a shade right (assuming you are right handed), while being under spine can cause you to hit left, and from my experience it can be a little or a lot, depending on the particular arrow you pull out of your quiver. I think it is always better to be a little over spined when you have to make a choice between being under or over.

Jmo,

Norm

And in addition, if you are that worried about your spine being too stiff at 55 lbs and 28 inch arrow, bump your point weight up to 125 grains. A 125 grain fixed broadhead out of a 55 lb bow will blow through any animal in North America

I agree with Norm that slightly over spined is ok. My set-up as per the Gold Tip spine chart, should be a 340 spine. Bowtech Reign 6 at 66 lbs. But for some reason it tunes perfect with 300 spine Gold Tip XT Hunter.

This is my second bareshaft at 20 yards after a couple twist to the yokes.

I had them cut. There was an older fellow at the south cabelas in Edmonton that said he has shot bows for thirty years and helped my get it cut to 28.5. I feel that is a good compromise. I shot it and it actually shoots well. It's about half an inch over my fingers so need to be careful haha. I didn't have to adjust my sight in for 20 yards too much but will still sight it in better this weekend.

Thanks for the help guys. If I do go up to 60lb I think I will be good.

Now to find some elk and moose land!

They are Easton
 

The Cabelas arrows are made by Easton. It's on the box.

The shorter the arrows the straighter they will likely be as well.

If you plan on hunting big bull elk, personally, I'd go to 60lbs. When I first moved up those 5-10lbs it was tough, but after a few trips to the range it gets easier and easier.

I’m at 57 pound DW and 31” DL. My arrows weigh 550 grains. Get a good cut on contact fixed head and your good to go, I say. The previous years I was at 55 pound DW and the moose I’ve shot were all passthroughs. Granted I’ve got a long draw and heavier arrow but still, dead is dead. I can pull more poundage no problem but I keep it light to hold full draw for long periods in hunting situations and draw in extremely cold weather or with a bad case of buck fever :)

Shoot them the way they are and see what they tune like. They put adjusting screws on rests for a reason.

IF they cut your arrows for use with broad heads? then they did not "screw" up your arrows. Arrows are usually cut 1" longer for broad heads so people don't cut their fingers off. If you have a an overdraw etc. then that is different.

I run 28.5" arrows and my draw length is 27.5" with a capture rest, with field points and broad heads.

Changing tip weight, feathers for vanes, longer shorter vanes, adding forward weight etc. ALL affect the spine of your arrows. Buying a couple good archery books will save you TONS of money and help answer a lot of your questions.

P.S. 5# will do very little for your arrow speed or penetration, what it will do? is cause you to perhaps start making errors in your forum IF you over bow yourself. A GOOD, clean, sharp, broad head in front of an arrow that flies straight and true will fly faster and out penetrate most increases in draw weight.