Transplanting spruce trees
 

Hi gang, I was wondering what the largest size spruce tree could be to be moved with a tree spade that gives the tree the best chance of survival. I have a few large (15+ foot) spruce in my back yard that I would like to move to the front for more privacy. Im on an average so room isn't an issue, I just wanted to know if these trees would survive. Also when would be a good time to move them if its possible. Its a bit soggy now so I don't want to rut up the yard. Anyone have any experience with moving large spruce? Or is the limiting factor the size of the unit to move them. I would think a payloader with a spade will be needed, don't think a skid steer will be big enough.

thanks for any insight.

CDN

I’m no pro, but a buddy just moved about 50 of em 2 weeks ago. At least 15’. Do believe the best time to move is in fall or early spring though. Not sure if you’d be too late now to hit optimum timing

I've moved some about that size a few times on the acreage.

Typically roots are shallow, so a spade will do it without any issues and alot easier - but we used a tractor a hoe and forks. The key was cutting the bigger roots clean with a chainsaw only when needed - ripping bigger roots out and leaving a mangled root system will hurt them.

Dug around it with the hoe, popped the tree free with forks, and moved them a few hundred feet. Had to drag some of the bigger ones which was sketchy - but it was over flat ground and was pinned (strapped) to tractor.

Out of 12 trees only one died. but I'd either do it now so the roots can set, or wait until fall. The longer you go the more likely they are not to root.

Good soil, lots of water this year, and they will have a better chance.

Spade is the safest, fastest and least stressful way to do it - so if you can stomach the price, go for it. Almost same price as a new tree that size - only makes sense if you are doing a few or more.

Hi there CDNOutdoorsman. Here are my recomendations. :)

1.) Wait until October. Spruce are tough, but you have to give them the best chance possible from a seasonal perspective.

2.) Spend this growing season nurturing them. Lots of water and a high nitrogen content fertilizer like 12-6-4 should prep them for transplant.

3.) Given the fact that your trees are 15'+ tall, the bigger the spade the better. Spruce surface root and the most important ones are the furthest beyond the canopy. The rule of thumb is a 10:1 ratio. A 3" diameter trunk needs a minimum 30" diameter spade. At 15'+, you'll require a machine that's 70" or better. This is critical.

4.) Laying down some cheap plywood to set the plugs on will make backfilling the transplant holes much easier.

5.) Once transplanted in the fall, try and drown the buggers. Saturated soil locks the root system into a block of ice for the winter. This immunizes the tree in a way from variable winter temperatures in the chinook belt. I've had plants bud here in Calgary mid winter, only to be hammered by winter's return.

6.) 10-52-10. Find it. Use it. Its a water soluable powder fertilizer. Mix as per directions. Its focus is primarily on root growth, which is what you want after transplanting. Pour it out about a foot or so from the edge of the spade cut. This will encourage the roots the begin spreading out.

7.) It's also good idea to find a way to mechanically stabilize the trees. Three point contact via stakes and heavy gauge wire. Cushion the trunk contact though. Loose around the trunk to prevent girdeling. Doesn't need to be tight. Movement is a good thing for new root development.

Finally...

8.) As much as EZM considers himself an esteemed horticulturist, I'd avoid his advice. He seems to believe that a pest that infests the leaves on your spruce will result in a worm from Idaho doing something bad to your bag????:sHa_sarcasticlol:

Good luck!

Tree

I was taught to transplant when the trees are dormant, late fall or early spring.

And for large and mature trees, to Root Prune in the early summer before transplanting.

This step involves cutting the roots where you be digging out the root ball.
Root Pruning allows the tree to heal from the major damage to larger roots being cut and to begin new growth within the transferred root ball.

Root prune in June/July, transplant this fall or next spring.

Root prune for optimun results. Root prune one half, then when tree spading take a larger cut so you get the new smaller fibrous ones that have regrown.

A big spade truck but big money...

Have to do it before bud swell. So thats happening now. Maybe too late this spring. October would be good in fall

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk

Not sure if true cause never moved trees but I was told by someone that before you pull out the tree it should be ribbon tagged on the north side and planted back in so the ribbon faces north. True?? I don't know just what I heard

I heard that years ago and have done it. Done it because it takes to time to hang a piece of flagging on a branch. No idea if it actually affects the tree at all.

Are we bringing this up AGAIN? You were wrong on the other thread and now derailing this one. Get over it and stop crying and trolling me.

I am not a horticulturalist. I offered the same advise as I received from a REAL horticulturalist, with a REAL degree - which solved my issue - which looked alot like the OP's issues on that other thread - that's all, that's it, get over yourself.

And you argued the point and were proven wrong .... and yet you still want to bring this up again?

Then I posted a link proving what that horticulturalist said, from the university of Iowa, AND the University of ALBERTA

There were other links from credible sources there too.

Are you suggesting ALL the REAL experts are wrong and you are right?

That's ridiculous.

BTW Tree guy,my first degree in Environmental Science, but I am not a horticulturalist, but I am smart enough to read, and to listen to experts and professionals and learn from them ..... hopefully one day you will too

Thanks guys, some real good tips here. So it sounds like it is possible which is great. I will start to plan for a fall move. Appreciate all the advice.
Cheers.

Tuff crowd....we're planting spruce, not splitting atoms. I dug mine out of a ditch by Drayton 20 years ago...they are 35 ft tall now. Out grew the ones that were 15 ft tall that my neighbor tree spaded in from a tree farm. Mine were 4 footers didn't cost me a dime just a lil sweat. Sure ain't worth fighting over guys. Life's too short. Plant the friggen things. Big deal.

It never ceases to amaze me just how predictably hilarious narcissists are. Particularly, when they’re entrenched in an incorrect position. Carry on though. [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

Tree


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was not my position - it was factual information from horticulturalists and cited studies from universities (including the U of A).

Repeated trolling and thread derailing should land you a time out pretty soon.

Second question, does anyone know anyone that has a large tree spade. I would assume on the back of a 1 ton truck (or bigger) or attached to a payloader?
I will look at doing this in the fall.

Appreciate the tips.