Favorite Vanes
 

I have been getting more and more disappointed using the quick fletch systems both nap and bohning versions. It seems either the vanes come off easy or the wrap splits or separates. For the price they charge for them you'd expect a little more life out of them. So I'm thinking of starting to fletch the arrows myself. The question is should I stick with the same kind of vanes or try some of the multitudes of other brands and shapes(have been using blazers and quickspins). Does anybody feel there is a better all around hunting choice for vanes? Also which brand fletching jig is best for the backyard archer based on price , ease of use and amount of time taken to apply. Preferred brands of glue and arrow cleaner would be helpful too. Thanks , Josh

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I just started fletching my own. Its actually simpler than I envisioned. I went from Blazer vanes to Flex Fletch 187. Works great on my Hexx arrows. I have several sets from people which I will experiment with this summer. I never wrapped my arrows. Bought a used Bitzenberger. Note: the FF187 are target vanes. Will experiment with my Wasp points and post results

I really like blazer vanes. I've shot them since 2006 or 2007. I like using an arrow wrap as well. I've had awesome luck with fletch tight platinum and just using rubbing alchohal to prep the shafts and vanes. I've used the bohning blazer vane fletching jig and it works pretty awesome for the price.

Hope that helps.

I had same problem for all the Green Flethchings.
White and Yellow stayed on for me but I could not get green to stick.

I have been using Blazer vanes with a Arizona Mini Fletch (helical). Never really had any issues with them just want to try something new to see it they are better. But I am wanting to try the Norway Fusion's. I read they are very tough. I am also going to try a 2 and 3 inch vanes to see what is more accurate at longer distances.

Anyone have any experience with the Fusion's?

here is any interesting link i found on glue https://youtu.be/tSg7kG05bsA

Yeah jay, I've got experience with the Fusion's.... I really like them for flight characteristics. Add a lighted nock on the back end and between the lighted nock and the Neon Fusions that I was shooting, there was no way that you couldn't track the arrow in flight. However! I caution that with this combination there stands a good chance that your form will suffer as you will begin to drop your bow arm to watch the beautiful arrow flight; keep the arm up.... The Neon's that I still have on some arrows act just like fiber optics on the vanes and create 3 shining points of reference per vane.... Very visible on a 3D target (which may or may not be a good thing, depending on shot placement - gives others a reference to shoot at :) )

The Neon's were a shield cut design. I initially had issues when trying to fletch the Fusion's onto the aluminum FMJ's, but solved that with putting a wrap on the back then fletching onto the wrap. Then they held good.

@ Josh; I just recently decided to go back to conventional vanes (was shooting FOBs for a number of years) and after visiting Jim Bows, walked away with Blazers and Bohning Fletching cement. I'm not sure if it's the Blazers or the Bohning, but the combination is VERY good at adhesion to the FMJ's (I can only imagine that on a carbon shaft, they would only bond even better). Out practicing the other day, shot low and the arrow skipped under the target and went several yards through the dirt and grass - never lost a single vane or even made one loose.

J.

EDIT: forgot the type of fletching jig.... Mini Arizona; works like magic. But there is a technique to it.... PM me for more info on the technique.

:D Blazers or 4" Savage from Bohning, both tuff durable vanes, As we use many Ugly Cookies [WB] for hunting rests these vanes hold up best, I still use the 4" Savage, which were a speciality build just for Ugly cookies, a little stiffer and durable vane...

The Savage vanes were discontinued at bohning as the Blazers became more popular, so we worked with bohning and bought out all their remaining stock...48000 vanes ...lol

When the Blazers came out we tested them against the 4" Savage, the Blazer were as durable but the only advantage we found with the 4" was in windy conditions the 4 " seemed to stablize better at longer distances, hence why I personally still use them.

With most drop away rests, most top brand vanes out there perform as expected, pending on bow tune some will fly better for you than others, ease of fletching is also a consideration.

Neil

Try bohning Blazer stretch Fletch very good reviews.


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Glues are the biggest problem (IMO).
I've had issues with glue more than vanes.

Thought it was because temps. were too cold like fletching in Dec. or Jan.
but only to figure out the bottle was 3 years old, or was left over from Sept.
last year.

Super Glue, Goats Tuff, Bohning, they all are made from the same stuff
more or less, but all seem to have a very short shelf life and an even shorter
usable life once you open the bottle.

That's been the biggest problem I've found when fletching vanes.
The glue has got to be New.
If it is most any vane will stick very well.

IMO. :)

Blazers installed with an arizona ez fletch seem to work well for me.

Use bohning platinum but make sure you let cure for 48 hours ....


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Rpm 360, how long is the set up with the bohning platinum while in the
jig ?

I use a bitz, and fletch one at a time.

Set time, using Goat tuff or superglue I can start on the second vane in like
12 seconds from the first.

What I'm asking is do I have to wait 48 hours to rotate the jig or do I
wait 48 hours for the arrow to cure ? (before I shoot it).

Even using Goat Tuff or SuperGlue I wait 24 to 48 to shoot the arrows but
set time from vane to vane is like 10 to 12 seconds.

Also give cleaned shafts 24 hours to dry before refletching to allow the
solvent to evaporate.

That's why I think the age of the glue is a problem sometimes.

And here's a real funny thing about it all, sometimes the glue drys "whiteish"
and even if it does, sometimes it's like a Weld and sometimes it's brittle and weak. Sometimes it's clear as glass.

Any thoughts on this one ?
Not trying to pick just asking for suggestions or ideas.

One other thought, if grease and oil on my hands, fingers effects the glue,
or adheasion ...

Do you all wear laytex gloves when you fletch your arrows ?
Maybe that's what I'm doing wrong.

I use...

STEAKS wraps

BOHNING Blazer vanes

GOLDTIP Top Grip glue

without fail.

I would say a minute or longer not the quickest that for sure ... the bohning blazer bond is a 10-12 second set time which works good .... maybe your glue is just old not sure I go through quite a bit and I don't buy the big bottles so it doesn't sit too long.... but if stored properly it should last a while

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...868160600f.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...7080474692.jpg

If anyone's wondering how they turned out.... that Arizona ez fletch is the cats Azz lol

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Done and done. Looks great

Some of the fletchings didn't stick as well as others, anybody have an insight here? I cleaned the wraps off with the arrow cleaner before I fletched, wondering if that mattered? Also had a space heater on the table set on low to help glue set up faster but maybe that affected how well it set?

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space heater maybe depending on how hot they got maybe but probably not ... maybe the amount of glue? maybe the ezz fletch wasn't sitting just right. the cleaner would have helped if any just as long as you let dry completely

Yeah you went with Max Hunters and not blazers.

I tried this route and had almost all fall off when applied in the same fashion as blazers. I just hated max hunters ...I would shoot with a drop away rest and have fletching's come off 20 yards down range.

I see AAE makes prep wipes now and I don't know if that help but I threw all mine in the garbage and went crawling back to blazers which have never done be wrong!