Shot shell reloader?
 

Thinking about getting into shot shell reloading.

What would be a reliable unit to buy without breaking the bank?

Fowl Life

For single stage hand loaders the MEC 600JR is the king!:)
They come ready to go, and are easy to adjust from 2 3/4" ro 3".

For progressives, I also sue the MEC's , but there are many out there as well, they are quite a bit more than the 600jr.
I have many MEC loaders and have used them and a few others for over 50 years.:)

be aware however, that unless you are laoding volme or specialty loads, you may npot be further ahead money wise than buying facotry ammo.
it all depends on how much you shoot.
Cat

Thanks Cat.

Myself and 2 friends plan on mass producing for waterfowl season for the 3 of us, as well for doing some clay in the off season.

I have watched a few of the MEC 600Jr. video on line they look to be what I am after.

Fowl Life.

If you want to do a pile of waterfowl, I would suggest the steel master .:)
it will handle the lead stuff as well.
Cat

Ponsness warren
 

MEC is a very good machine and the PW 375 is good as well but a little trickier to do 3 inch shells. FS

there is one called the "lee load all" too

Several things I don't likee about the lee.
Plastic base
Plastic bushings
difficulty in re-sizing high brass rounds

Most people I know that bought a Lee sold it and ended up with either a Pacific or a MEC.
I used a lee for a while that I bought at a garage sale, and found it very lacking.
I also have a Lyman Easy Loader, this machine is from the late 60's and has seen quite a bit of service.
My older brother liked it better than the MEC, but it is not as fast as the 600.
I also found it a PIA if one wanted to change powders or shot sizes.
Cat

Shotshell reloader.
 

I started with a Lee Load all and soon went to a MEC. I still have and use it, a pre '82 model 600 Jr.

It really depends on how much you load and how much time you want to spend reloading.

I would suggest, as in above post, for your entry level choice that you consider the MEC Steel Master, if you are going to load steel.

For lead, at low volume, the LEE Load All is a low cost easy to use machine. It's advantage is that it can handle a wide variety of hull/wad combos without much fuss. Moving up, I would bypass the 600 Jr. not because there is anything wrong with it, but the Sizemaster is a good upgrade.

Consider your reasons for wanting to reload carefully, non-toxic shot has changed the game considerably. I still reload, because I have the machines. If I didn't have the equipment, I doubt if I would start, unless there was some compelling reason to do so. In the '70s I did a bunch of skeet shooting and factory ammo was expensive, components were cheap, lead shot was plentiful and cheap, and you could load lead for waterfowl.

If your game is to load small quantities of specialty loads like slugs and low recoil loads for youngsters or low pressure loads for a vintage shotgun, get the LEE Load All and buy your other ammo.

The progressives turn out ammo like crazy, I don't have one and have never used one, but back in the day, P-W was the king. The thing about a progressive is that once it is set up, you cannot change any component without setting it up again. One set-up, one load, no changes.

This is not entirely true, but close.
When I am loading on my progressives, I make sure I am using a powder /shot combination that will accomadate several different hulls and wads.
That way it doesn't matter which hull I use as long as I have the proper wad with it for the powder/shot charge.
I often hand load using thre or even four different hulls and wad combinations.
As long as the machine will crimp all the hulls properly there is no problem.

You can also do this on a 600 JR with no problem.
Cat

In the back you can see al all out progressive MEC9000 hydraulic operated machine for 16 gauge - this machine will do a flat in about 25 - 35 minutes.
Next to it is a 600 JR.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ps3f1af5de.jpg

You can see here I have a 12 gauge Mec "semi progressive" set up that has an automatic primer feed on it and a collet sizer die
On the bench there are fibre wads, and plastic wads as well.
I was loading low pressure smokeless loads here, and using a combination of filler wads and different plastic one piece wads- all loads from manuals.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ps55559544.jpg

These machines are hand operated progressives, the table turns with each crank of the handle and a new shell goes out the back.
I kinda like MEC loaders!:sHa_sarcasticlol:
Cat
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ps91037ea6.jpg

Wow, thanks Cat!!!

Man you have a pile of knowledge. From what I read I think I will stick with the SteelMater, as MEC apparently has a tighter crimp which I would require over something like the LEE. Once I become somewhat skilled I will start playing with charges and loads on it to perfect something for Ducks and a Load for the Honkers!

Thanks Again
Fowl Life

Don't hesitate to PM me if you need help!:)
Incidentally, if you want any type of hand loading component, contact ill Bilozir at bilozir.net
he is a sponsor here and a dealer for MEC as well as a distributor for BPI products, among others.

He often has components not available anywhere else.
Cat

Definitely, I will keep that in mind...

Thanks again fro all the knowledge, and help.

Fowl Life

I bought steelmaster 3years ago and I am happy with it. I wish the user manual could have been a little more accurate and detailed but... not a biggie.
Now, if you are doing it strictly because of cost savings then you should count with some additional expenses:
- You will need an universal bar ~$50
- You will need an electronic weighting scale ~$100
- Reloading literature ~$50
- Reloading components (ballistic products) sold by blizor.net are ~20% more expensive than those listed in BPI reloading web-page (and no you cannot order directly from BPI - the rights are with blizor.net). I order from RSI (reloadingspecialtiesinc.com) - is cheaper. Powder and shots can also be bought cheaper in stores.
- Count with ~2-10% additional costs from what you have theoretically calculated (powder and shots spills, wads and hulls wrecked)

A good online calculator can be found at:
http://www.shootpita.com/reloading-cost.htm

good luck

Thanks for the heads up,

Wasn't really looking at saving money, more so building the best load I can, pattern wise and speed. Also the thought of know that when I fold the bird in the sky and cook it up for supper I can have that satisfaction. I would figure on breaking even on loads not including the initial purchase of the equipment, also not having to scrabble after a 7pm phone call saying lets go get some geese in the AM and only have half a box of shells left.

This way I can have a small stock pile of what I need for when I need it. More so for convenience. This also seems easier then learning to Tie Flies lol.

Fowl Life

You won't find ummison shot any cheaper in the stores for m Bilozir- IF the stores have it.
I have dealt a bit with RSI but prefer to deal with Bilozir.
Cat

How hard is it to covert a ponsness 375 reloader from 2.75"to 3" shells. And were do I get the parts. Or is it easier to buy a steel master as suggested.

Greg C.

I was reading that a lot of the time with Steel you have to press the shot in to seat it before you can crimp it closed? Does this seem correct, as I wias looking though post from other forums, and showed it as too full with the shot just poured in and then after it was pressed it was ok to Crimp closed.

Thanks for clarifying that point, I don't like giving advice/opinions on stuff I don't have personal experience on.

I would often load up to 1500 rounds in a few hours with my Ponsness Warren 800C. They aren't cheap, but they do a great job, and they are fast.

It' can sometimes be a bit of a hassle to change some progressives as far as shot charge or powder goes, compared to a single stage, and often trying to adjust the crimp depth , etc will drive you crazy - it's why I got rid of my Posness Warren years ago - it was a very tightly made machine, but it was not so nearly easy to adjust nor was it as tolerant of hull condition as my MEC machines.
The picture of the press with all the wads around it is a sizemaster, and it is a great machine , but if I am working up loads, I keep the primer feed tray empty, otherwise you will drop a primer every time you have a shell in the crimp station.
With a 600 JR , you have no worries at all because it's totally manual and all the stations re very easy to adjust.:)

On a Progressive however, you have to disconnect thew table advance - which is not a big deal, you just reach around and unhook it, but you still have a bit of a hassle turning the table by hand , and there is stuff in the way that makes manual loading a bit of a pain!!:thinking-006:.
Once you are set up however, with say, 17 grains of 700X and 1oz of lead, you can crank to your heart's content, simply switching wads and with the proper hull as it comes around!:)
The trick, of course ,is to keep focused!!:thinking-006:
It takes only the blink of an eye to make a mistake and you have either a no powder condition, messed up hull, no primer _ which also means no POWDER, or a busted up nail or finger!!:sign0068:

love hand loading shotgun shells, far more relaxing than rifle cartridges for me.:)

It's not hard at all from what I remember, the kit can be had from PW themselves.

Cat