Fixed blade Broadhead tuning question
 

Curious how many guys out there are tuning their arrows/brodaheads?

From youtube videos I've watched, sounds like you need to pretty much start with a new arrow and align the insert so the blades and fletches are in the same line. Is this what guys are doing?

Also, how critical is the shaft cut for square? Wouldn't the insert sit square even if your cut is off by a few degrees?

Fixed blade Broadhead tuning question
 

Fletching is added to arrows to counterbalance the steering effect broadheads have on an arrow. The heavier the point, the weaker the effective spine will be.
A heavier weight forward will cause the arrow to act less stiff.
Alignment issues are as follows:
a. arrows must be cut perpendicular (i.e. square) to the length of the shaft.
b. the insert must fit properly and must also have its end perpendicular (i.e. square) to the length of the shaft.
c. the ferrule must join correctly with the insert.
If any one of these conditions is not met, then broadheads may steer an arrow in a direction other than one in which they are aimed.

Point straightness is the most critical element in broad head tuning.

Don't worry about lining up fletching and blades.

Find a reputable shop to cut your arrows or purchase an arrow saw. Purchase an arrow squaring device (G5), a arrow spinner (pine ridge), and learn how to glue in your own inserts.

Even if your bow is 100% tuned, a crooked arrow will fly crooked. But on the other hand a perfectly straight arrow will help a slightly out of tune bow.

Youtube is your friend when it comes to arrow builds. Check out Tim Gillingham's videos.

Indexing boradheads is pointless and anyone who tells you otherwise shouldn't be trusted with anything archery.

I've never lined broad heads up with the vanes. I screw on and shoot. Slick tricks are always on point :)

First step is to paper tune your bow.

To get good Broadhead flight your arrow must leave the bow straight.

Once you get bullet hole from 5 ft out to 20 yards it's time to screw on a Broadhead.

If you do not have access to paper tuning rig build one.

If you are stuck you could "walk-back" tune your bow

Start at 10ft.(use ONLY your 20 yard pin)

Shoot an arrow at a point on target.

Walk back to 10, 20,30,40 yards.

Shoot 1 arrow at each distance.....at the same spot you shot your first arrow (10ft)..again using only your 20 yard pin.

Your arrows should fall in a nice vertical line.

If the line goes to left move your rest right.

If your line goes to right move rest to left.

Repeat procedure until you get nice straight vertical line.


Broadhead tune your bow by shooting at 20 yards with F.P and Broadhead.

Make small adjustments to rest or nock point until your Broadhead impacts right with F.P.

Repeat the process out to 30+ 40 yards.

Done.

As far as tuning arrows.....they should be spine tested and for best results index the stiff side of shaft facing up when using a drop away rest.

I bareshaft tune to same point of impact at 20, and pay attention to the way the shaft enters the target.

LC

I shot a Zwickey Delta on a bare shaft once at the range because I was told by the compound guys it was the best way to tune my gear - even after I told them it could not be done .:eek:
All three shot thunderheads, none hade ever shot a stick bow or even used anything but a tyre bladed, vented briadhead .:thinking-006:
They were amazed to say the least!
Cat

I just bareshaft tune with field points :)

I have never tried a bareshaft with a broadhead on it...if I did the target better be big and close :)

BUT, if you can get a laser beam with a bareshaft your broadhead should fly really well too.

LC

Very comprehensive tutorial here.

https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1606741

99 times out of 100 IF your bow is paper-tuned most Broadheads will fly well depending on spin test, fletching, and blade size.

It used to be people switched to mechanicals for better flight....now some of best flying heads are fixed heads.

Some standouts for accuracy I have tried are Wasp Drones, Slick Tricks and Muzzy Trocars.

I have shot all of them out of tuned bows out to 90 yards.....

I recently have switched to Tooth of the Arrow fixed 4 blade broadheads. I have accurately shot them to 100yards and been nothing but impressed with the flight. Once piece construction and stout design shouldnhabe them punching good holes in animals. I don’t index the head to fletching or anything, just crew them on and go...if I get something funky, it’s usully an arrow component out of true (nock or insert) so I nock tune and that puts it back on track.

LC