Neck vs Full length resize
 

I am new to reloading and keep hearing conflicting reports as to whether to full length or neck size my brass. Some say accuracy is the same for both methods, others say it shortens brass life if you full length resize all the time. I am confused. I am looking for the most accuracy that I can squeeze out of this rifle for target shooting, but I will also use it for hunting in the fall and I don't want feed problems etc... As well what method do you like to set up your dies for neck sizing? Do you use a comparator, or use a dummy round and smoke the bullet or are there other methods I haven't heard of? Thanks

This is the best instruction of die setting I have found to date.

http://www.gunsandammomag.com/blog/b...107/index.html

With this set-up you should have both accuracy and good feeding.

I tried a neck sizing die, once. Then I sold it and went back to my "old" system. It works like this:

Shoot some full power factory ammo, or load the equivalent yourself. Then look for an empty case from that batch that takes a little effort to re-chamber. If you can find more than one, set them all aside.

Then start to resize these cases, beginning with the sizing die set far to high in the press to size the body. Progressively turn the sizing die further down into the press until the re-chambering resistance disappears. At this point you are resizing your brass the minimum amount needed to get resistance-free chambering. That's what you want in a hunting rifle, smooth and easy chambering with no excessive resizing. If you are shooting a target rifle you may tolerate some resistance when chambering in order to get a tight chamber fit. But that would only be the case for slow and deliberate courses of fire.

Note that as your brass ages and work hardens a little you may have to make a slight adjustment to get resistance free chambering. You'll know after 3-5 reloads. At that point you can rest assured that sizing die is set up for your rifle's chamber.

In a typical hunting rifle you won't notice any accuracy difference between neck sizing and the method described above. If you want to fuss about something, spend your time and energy on building "straight" ammo. Get a bullet runnout gauge and use it. That WILL show a difference.

triggerpress

what ever method or routine you decide to follow make sure you BE ORGANIZED!

It is a good idea to pick up one of the various reloading manuals from Nosler, Hornady, Sierra. Just comes down to preferance. Even if you are reloading for only a single caliber, there is many inderesting facts and information in these books.

The reason I say organized is that I got my room mate in to reloading for his 243. I showed himn the prodecure in order, we did a couple batches ( 20 ) together to make sure everything was good. Next time he stepped up to reload he got a little anxious and started mixing old brass with new brass, wasnt double checking powder , bullet seating depth, primers werent flush.

Needless to say when were at the range and had a stuck case, when I pulled it out the primer was cratered and the case had a bulge from when it was sized.

This was with 2 grains less than max for the 243

Another good practice when starting out is to only load 10 or 20 at a time. If you mess up its easier to go back and find out whats what. Label, Label, Label!

Reloading needs to be taken as seriously as shooting cause remember you are the one whos face is next to that chamber.

For the most part I like Triggerpress's, Idea, he is explaining Partial Full Length Sizing.
I take fired cases, lube them, then smoke the neck and shoulder area with a wooden match.
I then set the Full Length sizing die high in the press, I work the case in and out while lowering the die looking for the point where the soot on the shoulder of the case just gets disturbed by the die body. At this point I attempt to chamber the case, if it goes easy I leave the die set where it is, If it still is a bit sticky I will lower the die about a 1/8 of a turn and repeat the chambering sequence, repeat the 1/8 turn if necessary, once things chamber smooth, set your lock ring on the die and get after it.
This method should provide a minimum of case stretch, while assuring good chambering. Of course this sytem fails if the fired cases are from a diffrent rifle.

I like neck sizing for my target rifles.
I use Wilson dies, and Lee Collet dies.
For hunting rounds I use full length sized cartridges.

Cat

2X on Dicks method,
I have been doing the same for a long time.
I have some 300 win Mag brass that have been fires 7 times and have annealed the case necks after each firing. The cases show no obvious signs of case head seperation. I am doing this as an experiment only and use once fired brass for hunting.

Regards
Phil