Ball powder sticking in case neck
 

I have some ball powder that is sticking in in the case necks. I thought it was static at first. But now I'm thinking it's from the Lyman Quick Slick case lube spray that I used. I didn't realize so much was getting inside the cases. I wiped the cases after sizing. Not the insides tho.

I sized the cases months ago. I thought this stuff was supposed to dry over time?

Is this powder now compromised? Or will it just push down on it's own when seating the bullets with no issues? If I scoop it out, it kind of clumps together.

I used the same method as with the stick powders that I usually use, and have never experienced this before. This stuff is a lot lighter tho.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e3556875c8.jpg

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I would clean it out and not use it. It will have absorbed lube or the lube Carrier. This is why I neck size and use graphite lube on the necks. I use the shot with graphite that you dip the neck into.

https://www.reloadingsolutions.com/p...ion-media-1-oz

https://www.reloadingsolutions.com/p...ion-media-1-oz

Ok I'll dump them and clean them out.

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I would just dump the stuff that stuck. The stuff that dropped right through should be fine.

I would seat the bullets and shoot them. I use sizing wax applied with my fingers and don't have this type of problem or lube dents

I have had that happen due to static. When I saw it on the first few cases, I ran a piece of Bounce sheet, inside the necks before loading any more, and it resolved the issue.

Holy crap that was a pain. The whole case was coated with powder (Inside) . I'm wondering if I had added a polishing compound to the media in my tumbler at some point. Causing this? I'm sure I didn't spray that much lube into the cases. The media is still almost new, but I'll dump it.

I primed 50 cases so I'm going to swab them all out.

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Makes me wonder if Elk11 is right and you have a static problem. Small grain like lilgun is very susceptible to static too. May not be your media. I would check the static angle with a dryer sheet first.

I usually have to wipe my powder measurer hopper with a bounce sheet for static. I wiped these cases too thinking it was static. But the powder that was stuck to the case walls clumps together now. It happens to me with the bigger powers that I've been using but not nearly as bad. I always thought that was static and didn't really put too much thought into it. Maybe in my case it's the tumbler media? I think I had added pledge or something to it.

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I know it was static in my instance, because if I tapped the cases on my bench, the powder would move around on the case wall, but remain attached.

I know it sounds like a pain, but after I size, I wash my brass in hot water and a little Tide....then dry it before priming. Gets rid of all lube.....

Use better lube.

What are you using?

Sizing die wax on the outside and Hornady 1 shot on the inside of the necks. And I don’t remove the lube inside the necks.

I was using a ball powder to load some new 44RM brass and the powder was sticking in the scale pan. I thought it was static so I wiped it with a bounce sheet. That made it worse. I then used brake clean on it and didn’t have anymore issues.

Sizing wax or graphite (I hate graphite personally to messy), I am also not sure if you get the same neck tension from round to round but that only matters if you want little groups. I have washed my cases as suggested but now I just run a old brass or nylon brush into the case mouth and be done, if a little powder hangs up I just loaded it and shoot it.

It doesn't make any difference. Ignore it.

If it is the lube, and the powder is clumping together, then yes, it does make a difference, and no, do not shoot them with contaminated powder. Reloading is a very precise process. You are making things that go bang at 65,000 psi. Getting it wrong can cause very serious consequences, not just damage to gun but to you and bystanders.

If you do not honour that responsibility to be meticulous, then shoot factory ammo.

I've never lubed in any fashion other than handwiping sizing lube on and off the outside of the case, and dipping over dry neck lube brushes. Reading about how lubes can contaminate powders once was enough. Reading how Hornady One Stuck earned it's name, was enough to keep me away from that type of stuff. I occasionally tumble brass, in dry media only. I run a piece of antistatic material in all the powder hoppers. I don't have the kind of issues with that stuff that I am seeing other folk having.
I can live with a little extra labour in manually applying lube, removing it, inspecting brass at every stage when I handle it. I like 3 way trim cutters and case prep ctrs for reduced labour, but, I add labour in depriming separately and using mandrels to size necks. Not worried about adding labour by deburring flash holes and uniforming primer pockets on new brass either, neck turning in some cases, it reveals a lot about the brass, and as it's pretty much a one time deal. I don't clean primer pockets all the time. Don't mind poking flash holes to clear tumbling media occasionally, for the number of times I may do it over the life of the brass.

I have cleaned enough flash holes, also had media bridge up in cases to last a life time that is why I went to good old water a bit of soap and maybe bit of lemon shine if needed. (no SS pins). Yes you have to dry the cases, I just use an old food dehydrator I picked up at Sally Ann takes about an hour or less. I use Imperial sizing wax, if I feel that the cases need to be cleaned after that then I give them another bath (Never really found a need for it if, you wipe the wax off properly) also a small quantity of alcohol (In the water) will aid in keeping the water off the brass and leaving water marks on the brass and it will dry quicker.
Graphite has also bridged in my cases and if you happen to get a bit of oil in the mix then you have a real problem.

If super shiny brass is your goal then a Lee case holder in a drill along with some #0000 steel wool will not only shine the brass but will bring out a natural oily feel in the brass, which is also great for longer term storage.

I use Lee lube. I put about 30 cases in a large margarine tub and put about an inch of lube on my finger, I spread this along the inside of the tbe.
Lid goes on and I share the tub for about 20 or 30 seconds .
After the cases are sized I wipe them down with a rag with G96, and dry brush the inside of the necks with a brush on my Casemaster .
I have never had an issue with powder sticking in the necks using this method.
At one time I lubed the necks separately, sized them, then cleaned them with Hoppes, then a patch.
Never an issue with sticking power using that method either.
Cat

Check this out. But I quit cleaning brass a long time ago.

https://youtu.be/sk6LqLDo8Jg?si=S6yYvRgpm-pvDXYg

Has anyone tried spraying the cases with Brake Kleen to remove the lube after sizing ?

I do wonder if John checked if the rice was still in place after seating the primer, half wondering if the air pressure from seating a primer would be enough to push it out.
See someone mention graphite bridging? Only way I can maybe figure that occurring would maybe be with using the Imperial dip version or a similar style of carrier like shot? I can see that is at least a possibility with that method. It didn't exist as a commercial product as far as I remember, from 40 yrs ago, when I picked up the Forster dry lube brush kit. Never had any reason to try the Imp style applicator, brushes work great.
I don't use wet or wax lube up past the shoulder on the outside, just let the dry lube do its thing on the neck, same as I would do for doing neck sizing or expanding with the mandrels.

Dean you're a good dude, so I say this with respect. Definitely not being belligerent or such.

But it doesn't. The only way to tell would be to make a statistically large enough sample size, one batch "clean", one batch with clingers, hook them up to a robot, and fire them in a 45lbs rifle inside a wind tunnel.

Then measure the both of the cone produced, and compare cone size.

If this wasn't done, then it's just speculation.

I suspect though that there would be no noticeable change in group size, because there hasn't been for me (anecdotal, i agree.) But I shoot hunting rifles from field positions, and I'm no pro.

As the bullet is pressed into the neck, the clingers get pressed down into the powder. The powder then mixes together with the other grains as the reloaded cartridge is put away, and it sorts itself out.

I know this anecdotally, because I've ignored clingers. And later had to pull bullets. The powder that comes out is indistinguishable from each other - no noticeable differences.

It's anecdotal, sure. But no issues for 20 years.

Until someone does a wind tunnel analysis, it's speculation at best. Reloading isn't the witchcraft people make it out to be.

Full disclosure: I've never cleaned a case. Never cleaned a primer pocket. These days it's straight to book max, magazine-length bullet depth, and go fire 10rds groups. Works every time.

Commence AO pearl-clutching.

Houston, we have a problem. And we need your warehouse.

Play stupid games, win stupid prizes……….

I can tell you from experience that if you do it to your dies and forget to re lube them, you will have a very bad day.

So let me get this straight. This shooter spends tens of thousands of dollars on all the latest gadgets and rifles (I have watched his and EC videos) and yet somehow his shooting improves? when he sabotages his brass?? Me thinks he was just more relaxed because, he did not expect to get very good results due to the rice in the flash holes? So what that tells me, is that being relaxed when shooting is far more important then the gadgets. PS I would never fire those rounds in my rifle but you do you!

The point is, it has no detrimental effect. No need to over analyze with sport psychology. But if you want to go down that road, people are way to wound up over nothing.