Bolt Question
 

Hey guys, I've notice the bolt on my browning A-bolt bolt is getting harder to lift after firing. Even with out a case in it, if's dry fired the bolt feels heavy. Any suggestions what to do or what is the cause. Ive owned the rifle for 15 ish years and bought it lightly used. I lube and clean the bolt regularly but have never taken it completely apart.

Thanks!

What does the cocking cam look Iike ? Is it dry, or even galled?

I would clean the bolt lug recesses and lube the bolt lugs
With a very light oil. Many shooters ( Kenny Jarret for example) use ATF then wipe it off.
Too much lubrication is not good.
I use G96.
Cat

I would say it looks dry. I usually clean the whole bolt with g96 then put a couple drops of Hoppe's 9 on it.

The bolt lugs and cocking cam need to have at least some lube on them.
I would also strip the bolt down, to see what is inside,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RS-lgSQvyyg

Bolt question
 

Lube the cocking cam

After cleaning the bolt and receiver lugs I use a fine synthetic grease, just a pinhead or so, on them and the cocking cam ramp.
Hold the trigger back and work the grease over the lug faces by cocking and un-cocking the bolt a few times.
My Kelbly actions come supplied with a syringe applicator full.

Permatex High Performance Synthetic Grease available at Can Tire is also a very good product for this application.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/p...p.html?loc=plp
Enough to last 10 life times.

Broke the bolt down and cleaned everything up. Put some lube on the bolt lugs and cocking cam still seems a little heavier lift than normal. Bolt smoother now after the total clean though and good to see whats going on inside.

I dont know a lit about this stuff but Have you done anything new to the rifle. Like tighten the scope base. That front screw could cause some drag.also I have had the action screws cause drag on some guns. There could also be a built up of grease etc in the locking lug surface behind the chamber. I remember a pine needle somehow getting in there and causing quite a mess. Thankfully I have purchased the tools and pad to clean that area.
Good luck

I dont know a lit about this stuff but Have you done anything new to the rifle. Like tighten the scope base. That front screw could cause some drag.also I have had the action screws cause drag on some guns. There could also be a built up of grease etc in the locking lug surface behind the chamber. I remember a pine needle somehow getting in there and causing quite a mess. Thankfully I have purchased the tools and pad to clean that area.
Good luck

A screw dragging on the bolt or grit in the lug races would also cause extra resistance closing the bolt, but a dry or galled/corroded cocking cam/ramp only effects opening the bolt, on the rifles that cock on bolt opening.

If I remember correct in the 90s there were a bunch of Remington 700 s that the cocking cam was soft and were galling causing stiff bolt lift. It required poilishing the cam and heat treating to harden . That solved the problem

Grit in the lug recess, that's what I was wondering also. If you have a shotgun cleaning kit or a slotted jag slide a large cotton patch in it and attach it to a cleaning rod soaked with cleaner and spin it around in the recess just before the chamber, that should tell you if that may be the issue. Re lube after.

Is this a stainless action?I have seen lugs in SS actions galled badly from running with no lube for years and not being cleaned properly.

I would suggest if the bolt is still difficult to lift and everything is clean , lubed and no’s screws dragging that the bolt lugs or cocking cam are galled .

Yup, logical conclusion.

Thanks for all the advice. I’ve never heard of galled before so will have to look into this some more. Probably be stopping in at a smith to have them check it out also.

The galling is easy enough to see , pull the bolt out of the rifle and look at the back of the locking lug . It should be smooth and not have any tiny “tearing “ of the metal . Also look at the back of the bolt where the cam is to push the firing pin back. It also should also be smooth .

Reloads or regular ammo?

Have you ever shot a load that pierced the primer ? Sometimes when that happens a piece of the primer blows into the bolt body and rubs between the firing pin and bolt body .

No that has never happened


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pictures are not really clear enough to see well on the lugs . However it may appear you are etching your bolt face which is not a good thing . Clean your bolt face and check to see if you are cutting into the bolt face . If so your reloads are too hot . Possible primer issue ,usually not .