Not quite....
You are looking at COAL in the book for a given load... Your COAL to the lands in the rifle will be alot longer then the book values... Look up "how to find the lands in a rifle" on google and then what I said may make more sense. |
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thanks for the thread
thank you for doing this.
I also shoot a .308 savage. mine is a lever, I have had the gun since my 16th birthday and literally love it, being 50 in 3 weeks, tells you how much game I have knocked over, over the years. I am very interested in getting a starter kit and loading my own rounds. I am especially interested in baiting wolves and with it being distance shots I wonder of my .308 is enough. if I step down in grains and do my own loads that or purchase a 22-250 , and the thought of sighting in at one kilometer, does make me wonder if my .308 will work does anyone have any comment on this, as I sure would like some advise on getting a new 22-250 or will this work with my .308 if I drop down to 120 grains or even less any thoughts Gray |
222 Rem
I have a 600 Remington in 222Rem that I played with several loads a few years ago and settled on this load that will hold 3/8"to 1/2" five shot groups... had lots of people tell me that it's short barrel wouldn't group well.
Great for gophers and taken a few coyotes over the past 20 Yrs or so. 20.0 Gr. IMR 4198, Fed. 200 primer and Hornady SX 50 Gr. This load is close to max. so would suggest starting 2 or 3 Gr. less if you want to try it. |
Very informative. Thanks.
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This is awesome
Wow..just loved this article. This is beautiful. Keep it up mate. And a big thanks for this
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Thought of adding
1] Check the brass cases for defects and discard any that are have cracks or excessive dents or bulges. Also, discard any that have deformed primers, indicating excessive pressure during firing.
2] Rub the inside of the case with a soft cloth to remove powder residue and dirt. Reach into the case with a case neck brush. 3] Lubricate the casings to keep them from getting stuck in the sizing die. Spread a light coating of case lubricant on a lube pad and roll several casing across the pad at once. Reapply lubricant to the pad as needed. 4] Size the casing back to standard dimensions and de-cap (remove the spent primer). Insert the case into the shell loader. The handle should be positioned up. Lower the handle to resize the case and push the fired primer out. Raise the handle back up, remove the case and place it in a reloading tray. Repeat this step for all the cases. |
WIll look for such from you more
Thanks
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Very nice pictures. The Lee manual lists a lot of loads that are to hot. I threw my Lee manual away. They make great dies and bullet moulds
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I use a Dillon RL550B for reloadiing pistol ammo. Their powder chargers are dead on accurate. Up to 600 rounds an hour if your in a hurry. I rarely go over 200. I"m going to use it for my 223 this winter. Try a Dillon you won"t be sorry
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.....bin dar, dun dat, bought the t-shirt, bought the long sleeve shirt, bought a spare parts kit for my XL650 ;) http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/p...ABB363811E.jpg |
A great bunch of information for the new reloader. Thanks to 32-40 for all the great links, they will be a wealth of info.
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Thanx man....very informative
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First off, as a fellow looking at starting reloading I'm VERY glad I ran into this thread and want to thank the OP for putting it up.
I like target shooting as well as hunting and plan on doing more target since buying a gun I plan on building a long range rifle with. More shooting means more ammo and more $$$ and reloading means more ammo for the same amount of $$$ spent on factory. Also, I have a 1911 and want to reload for it for the same reason as above. Quote:
Last October I put a Swarovski Z5 3,5-18x44 BT (ballistic turret) scope on my primary hunting rifle (the other is a backup I take with me always...just in case). I zeroed at 250 yards as usual (with the ammo I'm using that's +/- 4" between 100 and 300 yards so it's pretty much just 'point and shoot' within those ranges) and set the first preset at 350, the second at 400 and the third at 500 yards. It's worth noting that this ballistic turret can only go about one revolution and stops. If I turn it as far as it will go and back off one click, that's my 'dead on' for 600 yards. This past November I took a real nice whitetail buck at 500 yards with a single, double lung shot with that rifle. I would have no problems taking a shot out to 600 yards with that same rifle. I'm using Federal Fusion 165 grain bullets and turned in a group of 3 shots at 100 yards with that ammo/gun that you could cover with a quarter. Would I try to shoot something at 900+ yards with it, no. The reason is, at that distance the energy (fps) is quite low. My ammo, at 900 yards, the fps is 574. I'm sure that could and would penetrate a coyote but I wouldn't try it on a deer, moose or elk. Different ammo, or custom loads could supply more hitting power at that distance and .308 is a commonly used caliber in sniper rifles worldwide so I would suspect you could go out to 1000 m easily with the right combination rifle/ammo/scope |
Anyone want to sell any used reloading equipment?
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wife finally let me get my reloading equipment! so excited to start
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Thanks to everyone who shares freely!
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Another piece of info that needs to be here in the sticky;
US Export Regs; This is the ITAR reg link to the US Munition list, covered under ITAR and the export controls regulations. Have a look at Category III, (f)1 & (f)3. (f)3 covers reloading equipt, which is exempt from the regs; http://www.pmddtc.state.gov/regulati...AR_Part121.pdf and this part tells you what the bad news is if you should happen to get caught in a checkstop on the US side of the border; http://www.pmddtc.state.gov/regulati...AR_Part127.pdf and if you really want to read the whole act; http://www.pmddtc.state.gov/regulati...solidated.html There are places that will export cartridge components, such as bullets and brass. I have only run across two sites so far, myself. Have not used them, others have, to get certain components that seem to be unavailable thru anyone up here. http://www.cheyennebrass.com/ http://reloadinginternational.com/catalog/index.php |
It appears this also needs to be up here--powder storage regs
See part14 Div 1, you are supposed to have a powder mag; http://www.gazette.gc.ca/rp-pr/p2/20...ors211-eng.php |
what would be a good starter kit to get started? Does the gun powder have an odour? I'll for sure will be doing lots of research before buying anything but i would like to maybe get some advice from you guys before doing so. Maybe a 'must have' parts/equipment list could help others out too, seeing there is sooo much out there these days..
thanks in advance! |
Nicely done. Its always nice to see a logical progression
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Thanks for taking the time to make this post. It reminds me I need to pull out the press and have another play.
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thanks for the step by step procedure
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Nice information
Wow! Nice information on Guns and Ammo...Need to learn a lot about them...Thanks
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Reloading
Great thread! Thank you.
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Learning a lot from these
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After going through the step by step procedure... I am thinking to buy one for myself...
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learnt lot of things from this procedure... I think I am 40% good enough in this.
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Great post! Appreciate all who took the time to fill in all these pointers. I'm getting into handloading and will be referencing this page for the high pressure indicators.
Thanks all! |
Good info here
Anyone interested in laying out out step by step how to properly set up a sizing die? As opposed to the generic instruction of 1/4 to 1/8 of a turn...thanks
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