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A bit long winded - but, another possible solution.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E90IH20he80 |
Just a thought, what are the chances that it's a left hand thread?
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What type of M1A is it? just a Standard, Loaded, Match? (not that it makes a difference, I'm just curious cause I like M1A's. If its already ruined I'd use those sockets they make for removing stripped bolt heads. Looks as if the part will need to be replaced anyways.
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I've been doing a bit of surfing on that one - seems to be a common issue |
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To clarify, EVERY SINGLE BOLT/NUT on this gun has been super tight. The castle not on the muzzle brake took CSC's gunsmith half an hour to crack (I don't have castle nut pliers so I took it to them). I will go get stripped bolt removal sockets tomorrow and grab my breaker bar. |
Yea - seems like a common problem. There are all sorts of threads from guys having the same issue. Just google "M1A Gas Plug removal."
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I think these are the sockets that sikwhisky was referring to. On sale at Canadian Tire
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ma...l#.U5vsz8daZbg |
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if you still can get a bite with a socket, use this tool, can be found at princess auto, its called an impact driver and isnt expensive. They work great for stupid situations like this. only problem is you have to strike the end with a hammer for it to work. Just a thought. It puts downward pressure on the nut while turning at the same time with force. they work very well
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...psa381b815.jpg |
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You might want to back it up with another wrench, so you don't twist up your gas tube.
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Cold?
Try throwing it in the freezer overnight. If the two sets if threads are made of different materials the might contract differently in the cold. If the heat did not work the cold might. But it may also damage things if they contract too much.
Good luck. |
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I would probably put a little torch on the knurling, until it is smoking hot, then get a little pipe wrench on it fairly quickly (before it transfers all its heat to the gas tube, and loses the differential). Give the end of the wrench a real quick rap (or several) until it breaks.
A couple members mentioned this; I'm not adding anything new, but I would be very surprised if the combination of heat and a good whack doesn't get it. You could try giving it a twist the other way, just to work it also, if all else fails. The bolt head looks like it is in too good a shape to get a smaller wrench on, but you could try for the next smaller metric. I would say that either the head or the wrench was slightly the wrong size. |
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Put the socket back on 3/4 of the way on and put a couple tack welds on it and user a breaker bar. The nuts f&@ed anyway . Be sure put a couple of damp rages or tin to stop any splatter from getting on the gas tube or barrel. Just a idea .
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Weld it out.
I think stick welding would be best. Put a couple tacks on top of the damaged bolt, to build it up, and to heat it up. Find a nut to fit over the weld that been built up, weld the nut to that. Like major! Lots and lots of heat. Like lots! The nut should almost be ready to melt. Go have a Smirnoff ice, and a couple smokes. When it's cool, spray it with a good pen oil. I like Kroil. Have another Smirnoff ice, and a couple more smokes The heat from welding should shrink the bolt, and break the bond. Put the wrench on, gently left, if it gives a little, tighten it, left a little, more oil, turn right. Left, right, left, oil, and so on. It may take a few attempts, but has never let me down. Attach the ground on clean steel, and put it on where if it arcs out a bit it, it won't be seen. |
Drop a black nut over it , that just fits. Weld it solid in the center of the nut, let is cool to black , but still hot and turn it out with a 6 point socket..
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Well?...
Well?... did you win the battle of the bolt? :)
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Springfield, please fire the idiot that decided the gun needed to swim in oil before test firing it. Threads are intact though. Now the next part, pounding off the gas system with a mallet. |
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