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-   -   $100 cash to whoever can help me (http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=221752)

Artist 06-13-2014 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToXicXxX (Post 2463521)
trying a pipe wrench now, not much is happening, except it's biting hard into the metal.

Wow - that's amazing - I feel your frustration. I couldn't sleep until I had that thing off.

Artist 06-13-2014 11:13 PM

A bit long winded - but, another possible solution.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E90IH20he80

jackrabbit000 06-13-2014 11:21 PM

Just a thought, what are the chances that it's a left hand thread?

fordtruckin 06-13-2014 11:23 PM

What type of M1A is it? just a Standard, Loaded, Match? (not that it makes a difference, I'm just curious cause I like M1A's. If its already ruined I'd use those sockets they make for removing stripped bolt heads. Looks as if the part will need to be replaced anyways.

jackrabbit000 06-13-2014 11:25 PM

Found this:

http://m14forum.com/m14/111202-gas-p...l-new-m1a.html

http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/i.../t-313347.html

Artist 06-13-2014 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jackrabbit000 (Post 2463541)
Just a thought, what are the chances that it's a left hand thread?

Nope - not a reverse thread

ToXicXxX 06-13-2014 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Artist (Post 2463549)
Nope - not a reverse thread

So I am correct trying to turn it counter clockwise from top down, yes?

Artist 06-13-2014 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToXicXxX (Post 2463553)
So I am correct trying to turn it counter clockwise from top down, yes?

Yup
I've been doing a bit of surfing on that one - seems to be a common issue

ToXicXxX 06-13-2014 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Artist (Post 2463561)
Yup
I've been doing a bit of surfing on that one - seems to be a common issue

If the threads are toast im gonna be in a whole nother boat... I really really hope not. Hopefully if that's the case I can work something out with Prophet River to get it back to SAI...

To clarify, EVERY SINGLE BOLT/NUT on this gun has been super tight. The castle not on the muzzle brake took CSC's gunsmith half an hour to crack (I don't have castle nut pliers so I took it to them).

I will go get stripped bolt removal sockets tomorrow and grab my breaker bar.

Artist 06-13-2014 11:45 PM

Yea - seems like a common problem. There are all sorts of threads from guys having the same issue. Just google "M1A Gas Plug removal."

ToXicXxX 06-13-2014 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Artist (Post 2463570)
Yea - seems like a common problem. There are all sorts of threads from guys having the same issue. Just google "M1A Gas Plug removal."

I had done my share of googling after it wouldn't break free with a bit of basic torque. I've had crank bolts come out of 500HP motors easier!

lbj88 06-14-2014 12:38 AM

I think these are the sockets that sikwhisky was referring to. On sale at Canadian Tire

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ma...l#.U5vsz8daZbg

ToXicXxX 06-14-2014 01:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lbj88 (Post 2463606)
I think these are the sockets that sikwhisky was referring to. On sale at Canadian Tire

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ma...l#.U5vsz8daZbg

SWEEET! And the one down the street from me has some!

Norman 06-14-2014 01:10 AM

if you still can get a bite with a socket, use this tool, can be found at princess auto, its called an impact driver and isnt expensive. They work great for stupid situations like this. only problem is you have to strike the end with a hammer for it to work. Just a thought. It puts downward pressure on the nut while turning at the same time with force. they work very well

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...psa381b815.jpg

ToXicXxX 06-14-2014 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norman (Post 2463617)
if you still can get a bite with a socket, use this tool, can be found at princess auto, its called an impact driver and isnt expensive. They work great for stupid situations like this. only problem is you have to strike the end with a hammer for it to work. Just a thought. It puts downward pressure on the nut while turning at the same time with force. they work very well

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...psa381b815.jpg

Just so happens I got one of these from ECSTuning a wile ago!

Tactical Lever 06-14-2014 01:16 AM

You might want to back it up with another wrench, so you don't twist up your gas tube.

Norman 06-14-2014 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToXicXxX (Post 2463618)
Just so happens I got one of these from ECSTuning a wile ago!

I hope it works for you, sounds like an extremely frustrating thing to happen. Good luck

Ebrand 06-14-2014 01:29 AM

Cold?
 
Try throwing it in the freezer overnight. If the two sets if threads are made of different materials the might contract differently in the cold. If the heat did not work the cold might. But it may also damage things if they contract too much.
Good luck.

ToXicXxX 06-14-2014 01:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever (Post 2463621)
You might want to back it up with another wrench, so you don't twist up your gas tube.

Using grips with leather between them to hold the gas tube while twisting the plug.

Tactical Lever 06-14-2014 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToXicXxX (Post 2463629)
Using grips with leather between them to hold the gas tube while twisting the plug.

Is that the knurled part? Or is that part of the plug?

ToXicXxX 06-14-2014 02:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever (Post 2463634)
Is that the knurled part? Or is that part of the plug?

The knurled part is part of the plug.

Tactical Lever 06-14-2014 02:25 AM

I would probably put a little torch on the knurling, until it is smoking hot, then get a little pipe wrench on it fairly quickly (before it transfers all its heat to the gas tube, and loses the differential). Give the end of the wrench a real quick rap (or several) until it breaks.

A couple members mentioned this; I'm not adding anything new, but I would be very surprised if the combination of heat and a good whack doesn't get it.

You could try giving it a twist the other way, just to work it also, if all else fails.

The bolt head looks like it is in too good a shape to get a smaller wrench on, but you could try for the next smaller metric. I would say that either the head or the wrench was slightly the wrong size.

ToXicXxX 06-14-2014 02:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever (Post 2463639)
I would probably put a little torch on the knurling, until it is smoking hot, then get a little pipe wrench on it fairly quickly (before it transfers all its heat to the gas tube, and loses the differential). Give the end of the wrench a real quick rap (or several) until it breaks.

A couple members mentioned this; I'm not adding anything new, but I would be very surprised if the combination of heat and a good whack doesn't get it.

You could try giving it a twist the other way, just to work it also, if all else fails.

The bolt head looks like it is in too good a shape to get a smaller wrench on, but you could try for the next smaller metric. I would say that either the head or the wrench was slightly the wrong size.

If anything the head was haha, my wrenches are all Snap-On :)

elkchaser 06-14-2014 02:59 AM

Put the socket back on 3/4 of the way on and put a couple tack welds on it and user a breaker bar. The nuts f&@ed anyway . Be sure put a couple of damp rages or tin to stop any splatter from getting on the gas tube or barrel. Just a idea .

ditch donkey 06-14-2014 06:14 AM

Weld it out.

I think stick welding would be best. Put a couple tacks on top of the damaged bolt, to build it up, and to heat it up. Find a nut to fit over the weld that been built up, weld the nut to that. Like major! Lots and lots of heat. Like lots! The nut should almost be ready to melt.

Go have a Smirnoff ice, and a couple smokes.

When it's cool, spray it with a good pen oil. I like Kroil.

Have another Smirnoff ice, and a couple more smokes

The heat from welding should shrink the bolt, and break the bond.

Put the wrench on, gently left, if it gives a little, tighten it, left a little, more oil, turn right. Left, right, left, oil, and so on.

It may take a few attempts, but has never let me down.

Attach the ground on clean steel, and put it on where if it arcs out a bit it, it won't be seen.

petew 06-14-2014 09:31 AM

Drop a black nut over it , that just fits. Weld it solid in the center of the nut, let is cool to black , but still hot and turn it out with a 6 point socket..

Artist 06-14-2014 11:51 AM

Well?...
 
Well?... did you win the battle of the bolt? :)

ToXicXxX 06-14-2014 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Artist (Post 2463885)
Well?... did you win the battle of the bolt? :)

Canadian tire bolt remover, stuck a half inch over the knurled part and just gave her. With a glorious crack she eased up and came out. Upon inspection the bastard was coated in blackened gun oil. The threads were almost completely carbon locked.

Springfield, please fire the idiot that decided the gun needed to swim in oil before test firing it.

Threads are intact though.

Now the next part, pounding off the gas system with a mallet.

CanuckShooter 06-14-2014 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToXicXxX (Post 2463889)
Canadian tire bolt remover, stuck a half inch over the knurled part and just gave her. With a glorious crack she eased up and came out. Upon inspection the bastard was coated in blackened gun oil. The threads were almost completely carbon locked.

Springfield, please fire the idiot that decided the gun needed to swim in oil before test firing it.

Threads are intact though.

Now the next part, pounding off the gas system with a mallet.

Good to hear you got it apart...things like that can drive a fellow to distraction. CS

ToXicXxX 06-14-2014 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CanuckShooter (Post 2463892)
Good to hear you got it apart...things like that can drive a fellow to distraction. CS

****ed that now the gun will be down until SAI sends me a new plug...


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